Front Axle Shaft U-Joint Failed???
#1
Front Axle Shaft U-Joint Failed???
Driver's side outer U-Joint, located next to the steering knuckle is shot. The shop wanted way too much money to fix it. So I'm gonna have a go at it myself. I've pulled the tire/wheel assy, the brake caliper/rotor assy. I'm down to pulling the hub off the steering knuckle. The puller I rented at Auto Zone wasn't big enough, and didn't really fit on the lugs. It had one of those 5# slide hammers that didn't faze it. So I purchase a Universal (3 legged) hydralic pullers from Harbor Freight. It looks like it will do the job, but the 3 legs hook onto the backside of the hub - and the Hyd ram will put pressure against the end of the splined drive shaft protruding thru the hub assy. I just not sure it may thrust the drive axle back into the differential and damage something. The slide hammer tool wouldn't exert any pressure on the end of the axle, whereas this hydraulic ram will use all its force against the axle. What do you think. I believe once I get the axle/u-joint assy out, it should be relatively easy to replace the u-joint with a new one that has a grease fitting and lifetime warranty. What do guys think? Or have I bitten off more than I should? Michael.
#2
Cummins Guru
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,191
Likes: 64
From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
I have taken them off that way but there is a chance the hub bearing might come apart. Depends on how siezed the bearing is to the knuckle. Use plenty of penetrant first. It shouldn't hurt the axle since there is a flange the axle will rest on the axle tube and take the force of puller. Just remove the big nut on axle first since the axle will remain in the housing. Drain some diff fluid out otherwise some will drain into the housing. I would be very careful when reinstalling not to push any dirt into the diff housing. If you do you will need to remove diff cover and clean out. If you are not careful and damage the seal you will be doing it all over again plus the other side. Both sides will need to be remove to replace seals since they are installed from the inside of housing using a special tool that presses the seals in. That includes removal of the carrier, special tools needed there also to set back lash and bearing preload. Good Luck
#3
The traditional backyard way to get the hub out is to back out but not remove the bolts, then place a deep socket on one bolt, start the truck, and turn the steering wheel to press the hub out.
#5
DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 3
From: Smith Valley, NV (sometimes Redwood City, CA)
I tried the power steering method and couldn't make it work very well with at least a slim margin of safety. Creative and persistant hammering with a five pounder and then a sharp chisel did the trick. It's best to get them moving before the chisel goes in to keep from damaging the mating surfaces. It is a bear to get apart though and is a very good time to either replace the unit bearings or install a free spin kit of your choice. If you ding up the surfaces be sure to clean them up and, either way, put antiseize on when going back together.
Also be sure to put in greaseable joints! I don't want to do those again any sooner than I have to.
Also be sure to put in greaseable joints! I don't want to do those again any sooner than I have to.
#6
I think I'm gonna try the 5 ton hydraulic puller I bought at Harbor frieght in the morning. This puller looks like a beast. Attach the 3 arms on the backside of the hub and press against the end of the axle. Soak the hub with penatrating oil and heat it just a tad bit. That should free it up. michael. I'll let you know how it goes.
#7
Busted!!! Hub bearing come apart. The part of the outer bearing that come out looked good. But it really doesn't look like something that's made to refurbish. Looks like a toss it and buy a new one setup. I'm still left with the remainder of the hub still frozen in the knuckle. I'll soak it for a few day and try to pull rest out somehow. I thought this hub assy was something I could insert a new bearing into, instead of it being the outer race of the bearing itself. Napa wants 3xx bucks for a new assy. whew! The shop down the road wanted $699 to replace the ujoint and hub bearing. I'm not going give in yet. Perserverance! Maybe bigger hammer! Probably should go ahead and put a new dust seal on the axle tube side if it's not a big deal. Thanks for the help guys. Michael.
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#8
DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 3
From: Smith Valley, NV (sometimes Redwood City, CA)
Yep, those unit bearings are not serviceable. It's one of the complaints we all have about the design and part of the reason so many of us have put on the free spin kits. Saves wear on the front diff and axle U-joints, reduces overall friction, gives 2WD low range and has serviceable bearings.
Now that you're this far in, consider it for your rig too. Excellent mod.
Now that you're this far in, consider it for your rig too. Excellent mod.
#9
Don't buy the $125 Chinese unit bearings that have come on the market recently.
Some are broken new right out of the box.
Spend the extra $100 or more for decent ones.
Some people have found the best price from an unusual source, the dealer.
Power steering trick has always worked for me, advantage is you leave the big nut tight, prevents the bearing from separating.
Some are broken new right out of the box.
Spend the extra $100 or more for decent ones.
Some people have found the best price from an unusual source, the dealer.
Power steering trick has always worked for me, advantage is you leave the big nut tight, prevents the bearing from separating.
#11
I just did my "U" joints and used the power steering method. At first I couldn't get the bearings moving out of the knuckle. I ended up using an air chisel with a hammer head on the side of the knuckle while pushing on the bolts with the power steering to shake it loose. The power steering method is great because it puts no stress on the wheel bearing. I wounder how many bearings fail a few thousand miles later after using a puller?
#14
When I did mine on the '01 I took a sawzall and cut the ball joints into and then took the assembly inside and put on a 20 ton press and pressed the hub assembly out. I was replacing ball joints anyway, so I was not worried about replacing them. Takes 1 blade per wheel and 1-2 hours per wheel start to finish. When reassembling remember antiseize, antiseize and more antiseize. Oh and by the way don't forget the antiseize. One day it will have to come apart again and you will appreciate the antiseize.
Robbie.
Robbie.
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