erratic shifting and torque converter locking and unlocking AGAIN
#1
erratic shifting and torque converter locking and unlocking AGAIN
my transmission is acting up again around 35 mph and the torque converter is locking up to soon and is locking and unlocking back and forth back and forth back and forth. i cleaned the batt. terminals and gray connectors and two grounds off the batt to the finder and the problem went away for a few days but now it is back another mechanic said that the tps is not working properly and at first it had low voltage and then at idle and then we test drove it and came back to the shop and then the tps was at .88 volts and would not change when he push the throttle down but the engine was not running the second time when he was checking it. if there was a problem with the tps wouldn't i get a code or dead petal or some type of major sign? could there be another problem causing this? would a tps cause this? how hard are they to clean or adjust or check or replace and dose anyone know a what i should pay for one dodge said $504.oo for just the part but i am seeing other people post that they are only pay about $150.00. i need some help here i am running out of money i just spent about $4000 on other repairs like vp44, transfer pump, ctm
#2
Have you tried this yet?
faulty sensors and parts don't always throw codes...I had my GP sensor and solenoid go out on my 01 and it NEVER threw any codes...even when it would not move and left me on the side of the road it still never threw any codes what a pain
faulty sensors and parts don't always throw codes...I had my GP sensor and solenoid go out on my 01 and it NEVER threw any codes...even when it would not move and left me on the side of the road it still never threw any codes what a pain
#3
address is wrong
Have you tried this yet?
faulty sensors and parts don't always throw codes...I had my GP sensor and solenoid go out on my 01 and it NEVER threw any codes...even when it would not move and left me on the side of the road it still never threw any codes what a pain
faulty sensors and parts don't always throw codes...I had my GP sensor and solenoid go out on my 01 and it NEVER threw any codes...even when it would not move and left me on the side of the road it still never threw any codes what a pain
#4
#5
Your truck has electrical noise getting into the computer.
DTT sells a filter that almost everytime cures this.
The cleaned battery terminals was your clue. The filter costs $39.
dieseltrans.com
DTT sells a filter that almost everytime cures this.
The cleaned battery terminals was your clue. The filter costs $39.
dieseltrans.com
#6
yes
#7
if the tps was at a constant voltage no matter how far you pushed the accelerator down wouldn't that cause the engine to run at what ever the tps said the throttle was down at? the second time he checked it with his scanner the truck was not running but the key was on wouldn't the tuck have to be running to check the tps voltage on the scanner?
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#8
dose any one know of a link that shows how to check tps i need one with pictures. and how dose the cover come off the top bolt or screw is missing and the front screw on the bottom side will not come out it just keeps turning. i dont want to take a chance breaking it because if the tps is $504.00 the cover probably around $350.00 or more lol just joking but it would not surprise me if it were
#9
Here is a littile info on the APPS....
The APPS assembly is located at the top-left-front of the engine. A plastic cover is used to cover the assembly. The actual sensor is located behind its mounting bracket.
The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) is a linear potentiometer. It provides the Engine Control Module (ECM) with a DC voltage signal proportional to the angle, or position of the accelerator pedal. In previous model years, this part was known as the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) .
Diesel engines used in previous model years used a mechanical cable between the accelerator pedal and the TPS lever. Linkage and bellcranks between the TPS cable lever and the fuel injection pump were also used. Although the cable has been retained with the APPS, the linkage and bellcranks between the cable lever and the fuel injection pump are no longer used.
The APPS is serviced (replaced) as one assembly including the lever, brackets and sensor. The APPS is calibrated and permanently positioned to its mounting bracket.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to remove sensor from its mounting bracket as electronic calibration will be destroyed (sensor-to-bracket mounting screws are permanently attached). Two accelerator lever set screws are used to position lever. Do not attempt to alter positions of these set screws as electronic calibration will be destroyed.
The APPS assembly is located at the top-left-front of the engine. A plastic cover is used to cover the assembly. The actual sensor is located behind its mounting bracket.
The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) is a linear potentiometer. It provides the Engine Control Module (ECM) with a DC voltage signal proportional to the angle, or position of the accelerator pedal. In previous model years, this part was known as the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) .
Diesel engines used in previous model years used a mechanical cable between the accelerator pedal and the TPS lever. Linkage and bellcranks between the TPS cable lever and the fuel injection pump were also used. Although the cable has been retained with the APPS, the linkage and bellcranks between the cable lever and the fuel injection pump are no longer used.
The APPS is serviced (replaced) as one assembly including the lever, brackets and sensor. The APPS is calibrated and permanently positioned to its mounting bracket.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to remove sensor from its mounting bracket as electronic calibration will be destroyed (sensor-to-bracket mounting screws are permanently attached). Two accelerator lever set screws are used to position lever. Do not attempt to alter positions of these set screws as electronic calibration will be destroyed.
#10
so if it was getting a constant voltage of .88 volts then there would be no response from the gas petal when i pushed it correct? that means the mechanic checking it with the truck not running didn't know what he was doing? what happens if the sensor goes completely out?
#14
#15
spot #5 on the plug is the supply wire it should have +5VDC.
Spot #3 is the signal wire and that voltage should vary....
don't unplug the sensor to check it just poke the meter in from the back of the plug to get to the wires.
when you get the meter on the signal wire have some one step on the pedal and see if it changes voltage..I would do this while the truck is running too.
if you have the 5VDC supply but the signal wire never changes then it is a bad APPS I would say......
Clear as mud???