Engine Won't Shut Off
#1
Engine Won't Shut Off
I have a 97 2500 with about 67000 miles on it. I drove it about 6 miles this morning, turned the key off and the engine kept on running. I couldn't find any manual shutoff valve and finally shut it off by cutting off the air intake. Have any of you experienced this and if so what is my most logical problem? Also is there any manual fuel or air shutoff (kill switch) for this vehicle? I only have the small owners manual and it doesn't address this issue at all.
#2
Re:Engine Won't Shut Off
Yes, if you have a bosch fuel pump. There is one wire that goes to the fuel shut off plug (forget the real name). Either the wire has fallen off or the fuel plug is bad. The plug is on the back of the fuel pump, near the mount for the throttle cables. I had it happen to me 3 times in the life of my last truck 300,000. You have to take a 15/16 wrench and cut it small, so it will fit between the fuel pump and the engine block. The part is about $100.00. But, make sure you have it tested, as they do not go bad alot, usually it is in the wiring? Learned that after replacing the first 2, that where good? Hope that helps.
Oh yeah, the shut off switch is under the fuel pump. It is a leveler.
Oh yeah, the shut off switch is under the fuel pump. It is a leveler.
#3
Re:Engine Won't Shut Off
On your 97 you have a solenoid on the back outside edge of the injection pump that has a rod that lifts the rack shutdown lever when power is applied to turn ON the fuel. When the power is cut, the solenoid should drop from the built in spring, and force the lever all the way to the bottom turning OFF the fuel rack.
Generally what will happen is a little dirt gets in the solenoid and the slug that runs the shaft gets stuck before it drops all the way. It is easy to check, just follow the wire harness out of the shutoff solenoid, and unplug it when the engine is running. If the engine shuts down, then check your ignition key or the main relay for a fault.
If the solenoid is sticking, just pull it off, you will see it is real easy to do. Then remove the dust boot, clean up the slug and bore, lube it with some light oil or very thin coat of waterless grease, and reattach the dust boot. If you have some Dry Slide (used on guns and expensive bicycle shifters) it is the best lube as it does not leave a sticky coating to attract more dust.
Sometimes people loosen the two solenoid bracket bolts and slide it off to one side when they adjust or replace the fuel plate. If they are not careful, the solenoid rod gets a slight bend and will either not open all the way or shut off all the way. You will be able to see this with your eye, once you get it exposed. If you need to adjust the clevis on the solenoid, it is set up at 2 and 41/64 inches (2.64" from the bottom of the mounting bracket to which it bolts to the top of the injection shutdown pin.
If it is not the shutdown solenoid, then the next likely suspect is feedback from the starter solenoid. A voltmeter will tell you if that circuit is hot after the engine is shut down. There are also some failures and recalls with the ignition switch on some models, but they should have been taken care of by now.
Do not choke the air off in the intake ahead of the turbo to shut one of these down. You can damage the turbo bearing oil seal and cause engine oil to feed the engine, and then it can run away with you. It is best to use a CO2 fire extinguisher in the intake to shut them down in an emergency.
Generally what will happen is a little dirt gets in the solenoid and the slug that runs the shaft gets stuck before it drops all the way. It is easy to check, just follow the wire harness out of the shutoff solenoid, and unplug it when the engine is running. If the engine shuts down, then check your ignition key or the main relay for a fault.
If the solenoid is sticking, just pull it off, you will see it is real easy to do. Then remove the dust boot, clean up the slug and bore, lube it with some light oil or very thin coat of waterless grease, and reattach the dust boot. If you have some Dry Slide (used on guns and expensive bicycle shifters) it is the best lube as it does not leave a sticky coating to attract more dust.
Sometimes people loosen the two solenoid bracket bolts and slide it off to one side when they adjust or replace the fuel plate. If they are not careful, the solenoid rod gets a slight bend and will either not open all the way or shut off all the way. You will be able to see this with your eye, once you get it exposed. If you need to adjust the clevis on the solenoid, it is set up at 2 and 41/64 inches (2.64" from the bottom of the mounting bracket to which it bolts to the top of the injection shutdown pin.
If it is not the shutdown solenoid, then the next likely suspect is feedback from the starter solenoid. A voltmeter will tell you if that circuit is hot after the engine is shut down. There are also some failures and recalls with the ignition switch on some models, but they should have been taken care of by now.
Do not choke the air off in the intake ahead of the turbo to shut one of these down. You can damage the turbo bearing oil seal and cause engine oil to feed the engine, and then it can run away with you. It is best to use a CO2 fire extinguisher in the intake to shut them down in an emergency.
#4
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Location: Squamish British Columbia
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Re:Engine Won't Shut Off
My bolts to the lever simply fell off. I was on vacation so I had to open the hood every time to shut the thing off untill I could find the bolts to fix it. Metric but cant remember which.
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