Electrical Short? Cluster B fuse
#1
Electrical Short? Cluster B fuse
After shuting truck off for two hours, I went to restart it and both batteries were dead. Tried to boost it, noticed something was drawing huge current? Finally got it started by using two trucks to boost it. Still was not charging, so I replaced the altenator. Still not charging. The gauges (volt gauge) showed nothing, the radio kept turning on and off by itself? Once I removed some fuses I could get it to charge, so I replaced fuses untill I could see which one was causing the no charge. Fuse #14 Cluster B when I put this one in it would not charge any more.
Does anybody know what Cluster B controls? Or what would draw all the power on this circuit? Maybe somebody has an electrical drawing so I could test the circuit?
2001 2500 Quad Cab, Fass system
Does anybody know what Cluster B controls? Or what would draw all the power on this circuit? Maybe somebody has an electrical drawing so I could test the circuit?
2001 2500 Quad Cab, Fass system
#2
Registered User
What is the amp rating on that fuse?
My guess is there isn't a short but a sensor problem. Crank sensor maybe? If the amp rating on that fuse is in the 15 to 20 range then you don't have a short large enough to cause an appearance of a no-charge situation.
Does your A/C and tach work?
My guess is there isn't a short but a sensor problem. Crank sensor maybe? If the amp rating on that fuse is in the 15 to 20 range then you don't have a short large enough to cause an appearance of a no-charge situation.
Does your A/C and tach work?
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: South Western New Mexico
Posts: 822
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
according to my All Data program, fuse #14 gets it's power from fuse #1 in the pdc (50A), fuse 14 is supposed to be 10A, and gives the power to the instrument cluster.
Before you continue changing parts you need to do some basic voltage checks and current draw checks. I use a DVOM. Start with a static batt volt reading, then cranking volts, then volts while running, If your batts are real low or dead, the alt may not charge. you always start out your tests with a charged battery, It is the only way for your electronics to function. Also make sure your cable clamp connections are clean and tight. (remove them and wire brush or scrape ALL the corrosion off)
If you want schematics or proceedures or more info, you can PM me. I have the All Data program on my computer. I sometimes get real busy and only ck my personal e mails.
Before you continue changing parts you need to do some basic voltage checks and current draw checks. I use a DVOM. Start with a static batt volt reading, then cranking volts, then volts while running, If your batts are real low or dead, the alt may not charge. you always start out your tests with a charged battery, It is the only way for your electronics to function. Also make sure your cable clamp connections are clean and tight. (remove them and wire brush or scrape ALL the corrosion off)
If you want schematics or proceedures or more info, you can PM me. I have the All Data program on my computer. I sometimes get real busy and only ck my personal e mails.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post