moparmatt

i need some help with choosing a fuse to run the aux from my switch..i tried 37 because its a spare and it just blows my number 3 fuse..i tried my cigarette lighter fuse and it blew that one aswell i was wondering if i can run a 30 in there instead of a 20 and would that cause it not to blow as easily?...also the switch im using has 2 prongs, i was wondering if i could run the power from the relay and the aux to one prong and my ground off the other..thanks for any help

XLR8R

How long does it take the fuse to blow? If it's immediately - look for a short to ground; if it takes a few seconds or a minute - the load on the circuit is too great for the fuse rating. How many watts are your driving lights?

Do not wire 12V and ground to both sides of your SPST switch! That will definitely blow fuses...

You can swap a fuse for a higher amperage one, as long as you don't get greedy - no 30A 'ers where the 5A used to be. For auxilliary lighting, I've used 30A in lieu of 20A for years without a problem.

J BODY

If you are using aftermarket lights you need to drive them with a relay. With the wiring configuration of the new DR trucks I personally wouldn't be playing with the wiring too much.

IF they are factory you need to find out what's wrong with the system.

moparmatt

i am currently running it with its own relay and i have those all hooked up according to the diagram my problem is that the aux was burning up my fuses within 10 seconds...the lights are 100watt procomp driving lights...could i put a 30 in my cigarette lighter instead of the 20 and run the power from the relay and the aux for the switch to the same post on the switch and run the ground seperatly on the other post?

glenn-k

The relay draws very little current - sounds like you are doing something wrong. I would take an aftermarket relay - fuse from the battery to one side of the switched terminals on the relay (they come in 30 or 40 amps in the little black box with a mounting tab) - other side to the lights hot wire. Lights are grounded. Power from fuse box to switch - other side of switch to coil of relay - other side of relay coil to ground. That should make it work fine for an independant system - You should not blow fuses if done correctly. The relay has a diagram on it to show the coil terminals and the switched load terminals.

darkvader

we keep coming back to this ground on one side of the switch. there is no reason to wire a ground to the switch unless it is illuminated. i am not sure you have wired the relay properly. is there a link to your lite wiring diagram/
Clark

XLR8R

Sounds like you have the load circuit fused, some of the kits are like that... the control wiring should not have enough amperage to blow a fuse, unless it's shorted.

moparmatt

well instead of goin to a fuse i ran them in to my high beams instead and yea i did mess up on the ground on the switch i took that off and its working good so far thanks for the help guys

XLR8R

I hope that means you're using the high beam voltage to energize your auxiliary driving light relay.

darkvader

what did you run to the high beams
Clark