Dealer ripping me off
10-15-2007, 09:16 PM
#31
DTR's 'Go to Guy'
Small claims might be your best relief. Obviously you can't get your time back, but you could easily get up to the $5K limit most small claims proceedings have.
All you need to do is demonstrate that the work was done incompetently and ask for $5K for total compensation for your hassle. The time they wasted, the hassle, and the voided warranty are all worth more $5k imo.
jh
All you need to do is demonstrate that the work was done incompetently and ask for $5K for total compensation for your hassle. The time they wasted, the hassle, and the voided warranty are all worth more $5k imo.
jh
AS above, take it to a Cummins shop. I they can still read the engines on your 98 if needed but I sure would trust tham much more than most Dodge dealerships, and especially the one that worked on yours. I might also file a claim in small claims court for the shoddy work that they did on your truck in the first place. My bwest guess is that they screwed up and won't admit it, just trying to calm you down with a 1/2 refund. Go for it all or they need to fix it right.
Gross incompetence - I would be livid
. At least threaten them with a lawyer before you actually go out and hire one & go as high up the food chain in that dealership as you can - talk to somebody who will actually understand how expensive litigation might be for them. I never have work (out of warranty) done at dealerships anymore - I only go there to buy parts I can't get anywhere else.
. At least threaten them with a lawyer before you actually go out and hire one & go as high up the food chain in that dealership as you can - talk to somebody who will actually understand how expensive litigation might be for them. I never have work (out of warranty) done at dealerships anymore - I only go there to buy parts I can't get anywhere else.Situations like this are ridiculous. I would find one of the principles of the dealership, and let them know the specific details of your dis-service including time line and exact work performed and name of tech.
If he can not get you on the road without more grief, and in a timely fashion, I'd promise him you'll be contacting the local TV problem solving crew.
All their advertising budget is wasted with those folks doing a story, and Top Dog knows it!
Have all your facts in order and take copies with you. Before hand look on the net to get the history of the company, principle owners names, what stores they own, everything you can. When you've done your due diligence and present it clearly and concisely you will have much more power.
If he can not get you on the road without more grief, and in a timely fashion, I'd promise him you'll be contacting the local TV problem solving crew.
All their advertising budget is wasted with those folks doing a story, and Top Dog knows it!
Have all your facts in order and take copies with you. Before hand look on the net to get the history of the company, principle owners names, what stores they own, everything you can. When you've done your due diligence and present it clearly and concisely you will have much more power.
10-15-2007, 09:45 PM
#32
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 911
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
vzdude is right!
everyone is echoing the same thing.... get a lawyer and go after the first dealership. they give you the royal shaft. seems everyone else is simply reacting to your bad situation.
hate to say this, but if you treated second dealer like your responses. I'd pass on the repair too. it's the service manager's job to avoid potential land mines.
everyone is echoing the same thing.... get a lawyer and go after the first dealership. they give you the royal shaft. seems everyone else is simply reacting to your bad situation.
hate to say this, but if you treated second dealer like your responses. I'd pass on the repair too. it's the service manager's job to avoid potential land mines.
10-15-2007, 09:45 PM
#33
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: south mississppi
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
USED to work for a dealer. Again, Chrysler has no control over the dealerships past warranty and sales. They are an independantly run business. How much more tech advice do you want? You have been "advised" numerous times to seek legal cousel for dealing with the first dealer, and to find a compitant repair facility to do the job right. Unless you want to tear into this yourself, I don't see where " tech advice" is gonna get you any further than you and I to continue to debate this situation. Get a lawyer, and find a good shop. I feel for ya man, but I am done.
One more break down and I am done...
I had my trucked towed to the local Dodge Dealer last Febuary to get it fixed. I knew the headgasket was blown but the truck would still run. They yold me it would cost $4k to fix it. I said fix it I need my truck. After 5 months they finally said it was ready. Got the truck back and 200 miles later it started leaking antifreeze from the headgasket around #5 cyl. Took it back they said the head was warped, sent it to get machined and 1 month later said truck was ready. Put 300 miles on it this time and the same thing happened this time at the #2 cyl. Took the truck back Friday and today they tell me the block is warped and I need a new one. To me if the block was bad it would leak from the get go and not 2-300 miles later. CAN ANYONE GIVE ME SOME TECH ADVICE? The truck only has 174k on the ticker...and no coolant in the oil just to the outside...
10-15-2007, 09:55 PM
#34
DTR's 'Go to Guy'
Well........... it seems I may have mistook the intent of your original post and original question. I assumed since you paid to have the job done the first time, that you were not capable, or didn't want to perform the job the second/third time. Here is the tech advice. Hope it is what you were after.
Removal and installation
CYLINDER HEAD
These cylinder heads can only be used on engines with an intercooler. DO NOT interchange with earlier models.
REMOVAL
CYLINDER HEAD
INSPECTION
Remove the cup plugs and inspect the coolant passages. A large build up of rust and lime will require removal of the cylinder block for cleaning in a hot tank.
Inspect the cylinder bores for damage or excessive wear. Rotate the crankshaft so the piston is at Bottom Dead Center (BDC) to inspect the bores.
Measure the cylinder bores Cylinder Bore Diameter DO NOT proceed with in-chassis repair if the bores are damaged or worn beyond the limits (refer to Cylinder Bore Repair - Cylinder Block)
Check the top surface for damage caused by the cylinder head gasket leaking between cylinders.
Inspect the block and head surface for nicks, erosion, etc.
Check the head distortion Cylinder Head Combustion Deck Face Measurement The distortion of the combustion deck face is not to exceed 0.010 mm (0.0004 inch) in any 50.8 mm (2.00 inch) diameter. Overall variation end to end or side to side 0.30 mm (0.012 inch)
DO NOT proceed with the in-chassis overhaul if the cylinder head or block surface is damaged or not flat (within specifications)
REFACING HEAD SURFACE
The cylinder head combustion deck may be refaced in whatever increments necessary to clean up the surface and maintain the surface finish and flatness tolerances. The combined total of stock removed must not exceed 1.00 mm (0.03937 inch) The amount of stock removed each time must be steel stamped above combustion deck edge, on the lower right hand corner of the rear face Cylinder Head Stock Removal Check valve protrusion after head surface refacing.
Surface finish requirements are 1.5-3.2 micrometers (60-126 microinch)
CLEANING
Clean the carbon from the injector nozzle seat with a nylon or brass brush.
Scrape the gasket residue from all gasket surfaces.
Wash the cylinder head in hot soapy water solution (88°C or 140°F)
After rinsing, use compressed air to dry the cylinder head.
Polish the gasket surface with 400 grid paper. Use an orbital sander or sanding block to maintain a flat surface.
Removal and installation
CYLINDER HEAD
These cylinder heads can only be used on engines with an intercooler. DO NOT interchange with earlier models.
REMOVAL
- Drain the coolant. DO NOT waste reusable coolant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for reuse.
- Drain the engine oil. Dispose of the used oil properly.
- Disconnect the radiator and heater hoses (refer to Cooling System)
- Remove the turbocharger.
- Remove the EGR tube and gaskets.
- Remove the exhaust manifold Exhaust Manifold .
- Remove the fuel lines and injector nozzles as an assembly (refer to Fuel System)
- Remove the valve covers.
- Remove the rocker levers and push rods.
- Remove the fuel filter/water separator Fuel/Water Separator Filter Refer to Fuel System, for the proper procedures. Remove the remote fuel filter/water separator head..
- If the engine is hot, remove the cylinder head bolts in the sequence shown in Cylinder Head Bolt Removal Sequence - Cylinder Head Hot The removal sequence is not important if the engine is cold. There are 3 sizes of head bolts. Note the position of each bolt for future installation.
- Remove the cylinder head and gasket from the cylinder block.
- The cylinder block and head must be clean and dry.
- Position the gasket onto the dowels Cylinder Head/Gasket Alignment Make sure the gasket is correctly aligned with the holes in the cylinder block.
- Carefully put the cylinder head onto the gasket and cylinder block. Make sure the cylinder head is installed onto the dowels in the cylinder block Cylinder Head/Gasket Alignment .
- Install the push rods and rocker levers.
- Use clean engine oil to lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads and under the bolt heads.
- The cylinder head bolts are 3 different sizes. Install the bolts in the proper hole. Tighten the bolts as follows:
- Step 1 - Tighten all bolts, in sequence Cylinder Head Tightening Sequence , to 90 N·m (66 ft. lbs.) torque. Check the torque. If lower than 90 N·m (66 ft. lbs.), tighten to this torque.
- Step 2 - Tighten all long 12 mm bolts (Nos. 4, 5, 12, 13, 20 and 21), in sequence Cylinder Head Tightening Sequence , to 120 N·m (89 ft. lbs.) torque. Check the torque. If lower than 120 N·m (89 ft. lbs.), tighten to this torque.
- Step 3 - Tighten all bolts, in sequence Cylinder Head Tightening Sequence , an additional 90°.
- Be sure to lubricate the push rod sockets with clean engine oil. Be sure push rod is seated properly in the tappet.
- Install the rocker lever pedestal bolts and tighten to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
- Adjust the valve clearance.
- Install the valve covers. Tighten the bolts to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
- Install the injector nozzles and fuel lines (refer to Fuel System)
- Install the remote fuel filter/water separator head. Install the fuel filter/water separator (refer to Fuel System for the proper procedures)
- Install the exhaust manifold (refer to Exhaust System and Intake Manifold)
- Install the EGR tube and start fasteners by hand.
- Tighten all bolts/nuts to 24 N·m (212 in. lbs.) torque. When tightening bolts at EGR valve end of tube, alternate between the upper and lower bolt to allow face of EGR valve to remain square to tube mounting flange on EGR tube.
- Install the turbocharger.
- Connect the radiator and heater hoses.
- Fill the engine with new coolant or the clean drained coolant (refer to Cooling System for the proper procedure)
- Fill the engine with clean lubricating oil (refer to Lubrication and Maintenance)
CYLINDER HEAD
INSPECTION
Remove the cup plugs and inspect the coolant passages. A large build up of rust and lime will require removal of the cylinder block for cleaning in a hot tank.
Inspect the cylinder bores for damage or excessive wear. Rotate the crankshaft so the piston is at Bottom Dead Center (BDC) to inspect the bores.
Measure the cylinder bores Cylinder Bore Diameter DO NOT proceed with in-chassis repair if the bores are damaged or worn beyond the limits (refer to Cylinder Bore Repair - Cylinder Block)
Check the top surface for damage caused by the cylinder head gasket leaking between cylinders.
Inspect the block and head surface for nicks, erosion, etc.
Check the head distortion Cylinder Head Combustion Deck Face Measurement The distortion of the combustion deck face is not to exceed 0.010 mm (0.0004 inch) in any 50.8 mm (2.00 inch) diameter. Overall variation end to end or side to side 0.30 mm (0.012 inch)
DO NOT proceed with the in-chassis overhaul if the cylinder head or block surface is damaged or not flat (within specifications)
REFACING HEAD SURFACE
The cylinder head combustion deck may be refaced in whatever increments necessary to clean up the surface and maintain the surface finish and flatness tolerances. The combined total of stock removed must not exceed 1.00 mm (0.03937 inch) The amount of stock removed each time must be steel stamped above combustion deck edge, on the lower right hand corner of the rear face Cylinder Head Stock Removal Check valve protrusion after head surface refacing.
Surface finish requirements are 1.5-3.2 micrometers (60-126 microinch)
CLEANING
Clean the carbon from the injector nozzle seat with a nylon or brass brush.
Scrape the gasket residue from all gasket surfaces.
Wash the cylinder head in hot soapy water solution (88°C or 140°F)
After rinsing, use compressed air to dry the cylinder head.
Polish the gasket surface with 400 grid paper. Use an orbital sander or sanding block to maintain a flat surface.
10-15-2007, 09:57 PM
#35
DTR's 'Go to Guy'
continued.......
ENGINE CYLINDER HEAD GASKET FAILURE DIAGNOSIS
A leaking engine cylinder head gasket usually results in loss of power, loss of coolant, and engine misfiring.
An engine cylinder head gasket leak can be located between adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the adjacent water jacket.
An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders is indicated by a loss of power and/or engine misfire.
An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water jacket is indicated by coolant foaming or overheating and loss of coolant.
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the procedures outlined in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test. An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders will result in approximately a 50-70% reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS, OR THE FAN. DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
Remove the radiator cap.
Start the engine and allow it to warm up until the engine thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
If bubbles are not visible, install a radiator pressure tester and pressurize the coolant system.
If a cylinder is leaking combustion pressure into the water jacket, the tester pointer will pulsate with every combustion stroke of the cylinder.
CYLINDER BLOCK
Remove the engine assembly from the vehicle.
Remove the cylinder head from the block.
Remove the camshaft.
Remove the piston/connecting rod assemblies.
INSPECTION
Measure the combustion deck face using a straight edge and a feeler gauge Combustion Deck Face Measurement The distortion of the combustion deck face is not to exceed 0.010 mm (0.0004 inch) in any 50.00 mm (2.0 inch) diameter. Overall variation end to end or side to side is 0.075 mm (0.003 inch)
If the surface exceeds the limit, refer to Cylinder Block Refacing.
Inspect the cylinder bores for damage or excessive wear.
Measure the cylinder bores Cylinder Bore Diameter If the cylinder bores exceeds the limit, refer to Cylinder Bore Repair.
Inspect the camshaft bores for scoring or excessive wear.
Measure the camshaft bores. Refer to engine specifications at the rear of this section. Limit for the No.1 bore applies to the ID of the bushing.
If a bore exceeds the limit, refer to Camshaft Bore Repair.
Inspect the tappet bores for scoring or excessive wear Tappet Bore Diameter If out of limits, replace the cylinder block.
CYLINDER BLOCK REFACING
The combustion deck can be refaced twice. The first reface should be 0.25 mm (0.0098 inch) If additional refacing is required, an additional 0.25 mm (0.0098 inch) can be removed. Total allowed refacing is 0.50 mm (0.0197 inch) - Refacing Dimensions of the Cylinder Block
Cylinder Block Refacing Dimensions
DIMENSION "A"
1st Reface 0.25mm (0.0098 in.)
2nd Reface 0.25mm (0.0098 in.)
Dim (A) Total 0.50 mm (0.0197 in.)
DIMENSION "B"
Dim. "B" (STD.) 323.00 mm ± 0.10 mm (12.7165 in. ± 0.0039 in.)
1st Reface 322.75 mm ± 0.10 mm (12.7067 in. ± 0.0039 in.)
2nd Reface 322.50 mm ± 0.10 mm (12.6968 in. ± 0.0039 in.)
The upper right corner of the rear face of the block must be stamped with a X when the block is refaced to 0.25 mm (0.0098 inch) A second X must be stamped beside the first when the block is refaced to 0.50 mm (0.0197 inch) - Stamp Block after Reface .
Consult the parts catalog for the proper head gaskets which must be used with refaced blocks to ensure proper piston-to-valve clearance.
ENGINE CYLINDER HEAD GASKET FAILURE DIAGNOSIS
A leaking engine cylinder head gasket usually results in loss of power, loss of coolant, and engine misfiring.
An engine cylinder head gasket leak can be located between adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the adjacent water jacket.
An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders is indicated by a loss of power and/or engine misfire.
An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water jacket is indicated by coolant foaming or overheating and loss of coolant.
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the procedures outlined in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test. An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders will result in approximately a 50-70% reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS, OR THE FAN. DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
Remove the radiator cap.
Start the engine and allow it to warm up until the engine thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
If bubbles are not visible, install a radiator pressure tester and pressurize the coolant system.
If a cylinder is leaking combustion pressure into the water jacket, the tester pointer will pulsate with every combustion stroke of the cylinder.
CYLINDER BLOCK
Remove the engine assembly from the vehicle.
Remove the cylinder head from the block.
Remove the camshaft.
Remove the piston/connecting rod assemblies.
INSPECTION
Measure the combustion deck face using a straight edge and a feeler gauge Combustion Deck Face Measurement The distortion of the combustion deck face is not to exceed 0.010 mm (0.0004 inch) in any 50.00 mm (2.0 inch) diameter. Overall variation end to end or side to side is 0.075 mm (0.003 inch)
If the surface exceeds the limit, refer to Cylinder Block Refacing.
Inspect the cylinder bores for damage or excessive wear.
Measure the cylinder bores Cylinder Bore Diameter If the cylinder bores exceeds the limit, refer to Cylinder Bore Repair.
Inspect the camshaft bores for scoring or excessive wear.
Measure the camshaft bores. Refer to engine specifications at the rear of this section. Limit for the No.1 bore applies to the ID of the bushing.
If a bore exceeds the limit, refer to Camshaft Bore Repair.
Inspect the tappet bores for scoring or excessive wear Tappet Bore Diameter If out of limits, replace the cylinder block.
CYLINDER BLOCK REFACING
The combustion deck can be refaced twice. The first reface should be 0.25 mm (0.0098 inch) If additional refacing is required, an additional 0.25 mm (0.0098 inch) can be removed. Total allowed refacing is 0.50 mm (0.0197 inch) - Refacing Dimensions of the Cylinder Block
Cylinder Block Refacing Dimensions
DIMENSION "A"
1st Reface 0.25mm (0.0098 in.)
2nd Reface 0.25mm (0.0098 in.)
Dim (A) Total 0.50 mm (0.0197 in.)
DIMENSION "B"
Dim. "B" (STD.) 323.00 mm ± 0.10 mm (12.7165 in. ± 0.0039 in.)
1st Reface 322.75 mm ± 0.10 mm (12.7067 in. ± 0.0039 in.)
2nd Reface 322.50 mm ± 0.10 mm (12.6968 in. ± 0.0039 in.)
The upper right corner of the rear face of the block must be stamped with a X when the block is refaced to 0.25 mm (0.0098 inch) A second X must be stamped beside the first when the block is refaced to 0.50 mm (0.0197 inch) - Stamp Block after Reface .
Consult the parts catalog for the proper head gaskets which must be used with refaced blocks to ensure proper piston-to-valve clearance.
10-15-2007, 10:08 PM
#36
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: south mississppi
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well........... it seems I may have mistook the intent of your original post and original question. I assumed since you paid to have the job done the first time, that you were not capable, or didn't want to perform the job the second/third time. Here is the tech advice. Hope it is what you were after.
Removal and installation
CYLINDER HEAD
These cylinder heads can only be used on engines with an intercooler. DO NOT interchange with earlier models.
REMOVAL
CYLINDER HEAD
INSPECTION
Remove the cup plugs and inspect the coolant passages. A large build up of rust and lime will require removal of the cylinder block for cleaning in a hot tank.
Inspect the cylinder bores for damage or excessive wear. Rotate the crankshaft so the piston is at Bottom Dead Center (BDC) to inspect the bores.
Measure the cylinder bores Cylinder Bore Diameter DO NOT proceed with in-chassis repair if the bores are damaged or worn beyond the limits (refer to Cylinder Bore Repair - Cylinder Block)
Check the top surface for damage caused by the cylinder head gasket leaking between cylinders.
Inspect the block and head surface for nicks, erosion, etc.
Check the head distortion Cylinder Head Combustion Deck Face Measurement The distortion of the combustion deck face is not to exceed 0.010 mm (0.0004 inch) in any 50.8 mm (2.00 inch) diameter. Overall variation end to end or side to side 0.30 mm (0.012 inch)
DO NOT proceed with the in-chassis overhaul if the cylinder head or block surface is damaged or not flat (within specifications)
REFACING HEAD SURFACE
The cylinder head combustion deck may be refaced in whatever increments necessary to clean up the surface and maintain the surface finish and flatness tolerances. The combined total of stock removed must not exceed 1.00 mm (0.03937 inch) The amount of stock removed each time must be steel stamped above combustion deck edge, on the lower right hand corner of the rear face Cylinder Head Stock Removal Check valve protrusion after head surface refacing.
Surface finish requirements are 1.5-3.2 micrometers (60-126 microinch)
CLEANING
Clean the carbon from the injector nozzle seat with a nylon or brass brush.
Scrape the gasket residue from all gasket surfaces.
Wash the cylinder head in hot soapy water solution (88°C or 140°F)
After rinsing, use compressed air to dry the cylinder head.
Polish the gasket surface with 400 grid paper. Use an orbital sander or sanding block to maintain a flat surface.
Removal and installation
CYLINDER HEAD
These cylinder heads can only be used on engines with an intercooler. DO NOT interchange with earlier models.
REMOVAL
- Drain the coolant. DO NOT waste reusable coolant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for reuse.
- Drain the engine oil. Dispose of the used oil properly.
- Disconnect the radiator and heater hoses (refer to Cooling System)
- Remove the turbocharger.
- Remove the EGR tube and gaskets.
- Remove the exhaust manifold Exhaust Manifold .
- Remove the fuel lines and injector nozzles as an assembly (refer to Fuel System)
- Remove the valve covers.
- Remove the rocker levers and push rods.
- Remove the fuel filter/water separator Fuel/Water Separator Filter Refer to Fuel System, for the proper procedures. Remove the remote fuel filter/water separator head..
- If the engine is hot, remove the cylinder head bolts in the sequence shown in Cylinder Head Bolt Removal Sequence - Cylinder Head Hot The removal sequence is not important if the engine is cold. There are 3 sizes of head bolts. Note the position of each bolt for future installation.
- Remove the cylinder head and gasket from the cylinder block.
- The cylinder block and head must be clean and dry.
- Position the gasket onto the dowels Cylinder Head/Gasket Alignment Make sure the gasket is correctly aligned with the holes in the cylinder block.
- Carefully put the cylinder head onto the gasket and cylinder block. Make sure the cylinder head is installed onto the dowels in the cylinder block Cylinder Head/Gasket Alignment .
- Install the push rods and rocker levers.
- Use clean engine oil to lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads and under the bolt heads.
- The cylinder head bolts are 3 different sizes. Install the bolts in the proper hole. Tighten the bolts as follows:
- Step 1 - Tighten all bolts, in sequence Cylinder Head Tightening Sequence , to 90 N·m (66 ft. lbs.) torque. Check the torque. If lower than 90 N·m (66 ft. lbs.), tighten to this torque.
- Step 2 - Tighten all long 12 mm bolts (Nos. 4, 5, 12, 13, 20 and 21), in sequence Cylinder Head Tightening Sequence , to 120 N·m (89 ft. lbs.) torque. Check the torque. If lower than 120 N·m (89 ft. lbs.), tighten to this torque.
- Step 3 - Tighten all bolts, in sequence Cylinder Head Tightening Sequence , an additional 90°.
- Be sure to lubricate the push rod sockets with clean engine oil. Be sure push rod is seated properly in the tappet.
- Install the rocker lever pedestal bolts and tighten to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
- Adjust the valve clearance.
- Install the valve covers. Tighten the bolts to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
- Install the injector nozzles and fuel lines (refer to Fuel System)
- Install the remote fuel filter/water separator head. Install the fuel filter/water separator (refer to Fuel System for the proper procedures)
- Install the exhaust manifold (refer to Exhaust System and Intake Manifold)
- Install the EGR tube and start fasteners by hand.
- Tighten all bolts/nuts to 24 N·m (212 in. lbs.) torque. When tightening bolts at EGR valve end of tube, alternate between the upper and lower bolt to allow face of EGR valve to remain square to tube mounting flange on EGR tube.
- Install the turbocharger.
- Connect the radiator and heater hoses.
- Fill the engine with new coolant or the clean drained coolant (refer to Cooling System for the proper procedure)
- Fill the engine with clean lubricating oil (refer to Lubrication and Maintenance)
CYLINDER HEAD
INSPECTION
Remove the cup plugs and inspect the coolant passages. A large build up of rust and lime will require removal of the cylinder block for cleaning in a hot tank.
Inspect the cylinder bores for damage or excessive wear. Rotate the crankshaft so the piston is at Bottom Dead Center (BDC) to inspect the bores.
Measure the cylinder bores Cylinder Bore Diameter DO NOT proceed with in-chassis repair if the bores are damaged or worn beyond the limits (refer to Cylinder Bore Repair - Cylinder Block)
Check the top surface for damage caused by the cylinder head gasket leaking between cylinders.
Inspect the block and head surface for nicks, erosion, etc.
Check the head distortion Cylinder Head Combustion Deck Face Measurement The distortion of the combustion deck face is not to exceed 0.010 mm (0.0004 inch) in any 50.8 mm (2.00 inch) diameter. Overall variation end to end or side to side 0.30 mm (0.012 inch)
DO NOT proceed with the in-chassis overhaul if the cylinder head or block surface is damaged or not flat (within specifications)
REFACING HEAD SURFACE
The cylinder head combustion deck may be refaced in whatever increments necessary to clean up the surface and maintain the surface finish and flatness tolerances. The combined total of stock removed must not exceed 1.00 mm (0.03937 inch) The amount of stock removed each time must be steel stamped above combustion deck edge, on the lower right hand corner of the rear face Cylinder Head Stock Removal Check valve protrusion after head surface refacing.
Surface finish requirements are 1.5-3.2 micrometers (60-126 microinch)
CLEANING
Clean the carbon from the injector nozzle seat with a nylon or brass brush.
Scrape the gasket residue from all gasket surfaces.
Wash the cylinder head in hot soapy water solution (88°C or 140°F)
After rinsing, use compressed air to dry the cylinder head.
Polish the gasket surface with 400 grid paper. Use an orbital sander or sanding block to maintain a flat surface.
I assumed since you paid to have the job done the first time, that you were not capable, or didn't want to perform the job the second/third time. Here is the tech advice. Hope it is what you were after.
I can even change a little toyota 4 cyl engine by myself, notice the dates on the pics
10-15-2007, 10:14 PM
#37
DTR's 'Go to Guy'
10-15-2007, 10:26 PM
#38
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: south mississppi
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
10-15-2007, 10:33 PM
#39
Registered User
I also think that the original post implied that you were looking for advice and answers relating to what you should do were even with you comment about tech help. If you wanted to know what steps you needed to do to remove and replace the head then why didn't you jsut ask specifically for that.
As far as knocking Chrysler due to the dealerships incompenance Chrysler Corp dosen't have a lot of control over each dealer other than what the franchise papers require. They can not set policies other than what eh original franchoise papers require. I'm sure that Ford and GM would be exactly the same under the same circumstances. Let me give you another bombshell. If you have your truck repaired at a dealer whether under warranty or not if you have a problem and the repair ahs anytype of warranty within 30 days you are supposed to return to the original servicing dealer (look at the fine print in your warranty book) OK heres a what if. You have work done on your truck and then leave for an extended trip. On the 5th day 1400 miles from the original dealer truck breaks down due failure of work done by original delaer, and closest dealer to you will not do work without a cash for repairs paid up front due to first dealer doing work wrong. Now you have to pay for the repair or get the district managers involved to try to work out something and/or get them to tow the truck to the original dealer (it's not gonna happen) and you are out of transportation while truck is broken and Chrysler will not spot a rental car either. By the way, it's still under warranty at 14 months old and 22000 miles. Believe me it happens, it happened to me 2 years ago. But I have been advised that if I had had a Ford or Chevy the same things would have happened.....So as above I can understand the second dealer refusing to look at or work on your truck as he was getting into a can of worms. You by Chryysler policies were required to return to the original dealer and as has been said by some on this board by accepting partial payment from the dealer you may have negated all recourse you had if you find enough fault that the dealer was incompnent in his repair efforts. And as an aside if I had a dealer take 6 m-8 months to repair my truck I would have gotten it out of there after the fiorst 2 weeks as I would have questioned his repair policies right fromt eh get go......
As far as knocking Chrysler due to the dealerships incompenance Chrysler Corp dosen't have a lot of control over each dealer other than what the franchise papers require. They can not set policies other than what eh original franchoise papers require. I'm sure that Ford and GM would be exactly the same under the same circumstances. Let me give you another bombshell. If you have your truck repaired at a dealer whether under warranty or not if you have a problem and the repair ahs anytype of warranty within 30 days you are supposed to return to the original servicing dealer (look at the fine print in your warranty book) OK heres a what if. You have work done on your truck and then leave for an extended trip. On the 5th day 1400 miles from the original dealer truck breaks down due failure of work done by original delaer, and closest dealer to you will not do work without a cash for repairs paid up front due to first dealer doing work wrong. Now you have to pay for the repair or get the district managers involved to try to work out something and/or get them to tow the truck to the original dealer (it's not gonna happen) and you are out of transportation while truck is broken and Chrysler will not spot a rental car either. By the way, it's still under warranty at 14 months old and 22000 miles. Believe me it happens, it happened to me 2 years ago. But I have been advised that if I had had a Ford or Chevy the same things would have happened.....So as above I can understand the second dealer refusing to look at or work on your truck as he was getting into a can of worms. You by Chryysler policies were required to return to the original dealer and as has been said by some on this board by accepting partial payment from the dealer you may have negated all recourse you had if you find enough fault that the dealer was incompnent in his repair efforts. And as an aside if I had a dealer take 6 m-8 months to repair my truck I would have gotten it out of there after the fiorst 2 weeks as I would have questioned his repair policies right fromt eh get go......
10-15-2007, 10:35 PM
#40
DTR's 'Go to Guy'
You don't even know HOW many times I wanted to write that on a service order !LOL I just couldn't bring myself to do it though! Funny stuff right there!
IF ANYTHING that could help in a lawsuit!
IF ANYTHING that could help in a lawsuit!
10-15-2007, 10:46 PM
#41
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: south mississppi
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I also think that the original post implied that you were looking for advice and answers relating to what you should do were even with you comment about tech help. If you wanted to know what steps you needed to do to remove and replace the head then why didn't you jsut ask specifically for that.
As far as knocking Chrysler due to the dealerships incompenance Chrysler Corp dosen't have a lot of control over each dealer other than what the franchise papers require. They can not set policies other than what eh original franchoise papers require. I'm sure that Ford and GM would be exactly the same under the same circumstances. Let me give you another bombshell. If you have your truck repaired at a dealer whether under warranty or not if you have a problem and the repair ahs anytype of warranty within 30 days you are supposed to return to the original servicing dealer (look at the fine print in your warranty book) OK heres a what if. You have work done on your truck and then leave for an extended trip. On the 5th day 1400 miles from the original dealer truck breaks down due failure of work done by original delaer, and closest dealer to you will not do work without a cash for repairs paid up front due to first dealer doing work wrong. Now you have to pay for the repair or get the district managers involved to try to work out something and/or get them to tow the truck to the original dealer (it's not gonna happen) and you are out of transportation while truck is broken and Chrysler will not spot a rental car either. By the way, it's still under warranty at 14 months old and 22000 miles. Believe me it happens, it happened to me 2 years ago. But I have been advised that if I had had a Ford or Chevy the same things would have happened.....So as above I can understand the second dealer refusing to look at or work on your truck as he was getting into a can of worms. You by Chryysler policies were required to return to the original dealer and as has been said by some on this board by accepting partial payment from the dealer you may have negated all recourse you had if you find enough fault that the dealer was incompnent in his repair efforts. And as an aside if I had a dealer take 6 m-8 months to repair my truck I would have gotten it out of there after the fiorst 2 weeks as I would have questioned his repair policies right fromt eh get go......
As far as knocking Chrysler due to the dealerships incompenance Chrysler Corp dosen't have a lot of control over each dealer other than what the franchise papers require. They can not set policies other than what eh original franchoise papers require. I'm sure that Ford and GM would be exactly the same under the same circumstances. Let me give you another bombshell. If you have your truck repaired at a dealer whether under warranty or not if you have a problem and the repair ahs anytype of warranty within 30 days you are supposed to return to the original servicing dealer (look at the fine print in your warranty book) OK heres a what if. You have work done on your truck and then leave for an extended trip. On the 5th day 1400 miles from the original dealer truck breaks down due failure of work done by original delaer, and closest dealer to you will not do work without a cash for repairs paid up front due to first dealer doing work wrong. Now you have to pay for the repair or get the district managers involved to try to work out something and/or get them to tow the truck to the original dealer (it's not gonna happen) and you are out of transportation while truck is broken and Chrysler will not spot a rental car either. By the way, it's still under warranty at 14 months old and 22000 miles. Believe me it happens, it happened to me 2 years ago. But I have been advised that if I had had a Ford or Chevy the same things would have happened.....So as above I can understand the second dealer refusing to look at or work on your truck as he was getting into a can of worms. You by Chryysler policies were required to return to the original dealer and as has been said by some on this board by accepting partial payment from the dealer you may have negated all recourse you had if you find enough fault that the dealer was incompnent in his repair efforts. And as an aside if I had a dealer take 6 m-8 months to repair my truck I would have gotten it out of there after the fiorst 2 weeks as I would have questioned his repair policies right fromt eh get go......
10-19-2007, 02:40 AM
#42
Registered User
If you are still looking for a qualified Cummins shop to do the work... Have you contacted Kennedy Engine just off I-10 in Gulfport? They specialize in Cummins, Onan, Volvo and International Diesels!!! Mostly big rigs and generators... but if they don't do Dodges, they may be able to point you in a better direction!!!
And I understand you frustrations.... I had problem after problem with Toyota... I mean EVERY dealership from Mobile where I bought it to New Orleans.... A wide gambit of issues and I'll never own another Toyota because of it... and that was my 5th toyota!!! But I'm done now... It got flooded out with Katrina... so AFTER we got the Insurance Check and cashed it, but before the wrecker serice picked it up... I took a 2" x 8' Steel pipe to it!!! WOW... What Stress Relief!!! Ya know... after about 6 hits the drivers door was folded in half.... VERTICALLY!!! hahahaha... Then I flipped it with my NEW DODGE and drug it down the street!!! Then took off the wheels and tow hitch and sold them to my brother-in-law!!! MEMORIES!!!! La-la-la-la!!!!hahahaha!!!!
And I understand you frustrations.... I had problem after problem with Toyota... I mean EVERY dealership from Mobile where I bought it to New Orleans.... A wide gambit of issues and I'll never own another Toyota because of it... and that was my 5th toyota!!! But I'm done now... It got flooded out with Katrina... so AFTER we got the Insurance Check and cashed it, but before the wrecker serice picked it up... I took a 2" x 8' Steel pipe to it!!! WOW... What Stress Relief!!! Ya know... after about 6 hits the drivers door was folded in half.... VERTICALLY!!! hahahaha... Then I flipped it with my NEW DODGE and drug it down the street!!! Then took off the wheels and tow hitch and sold them to my brother-in-law!!! MEMORIES!!!! La-la-la-la!!!!hahahaha!!!!
11-01-2007, 07:03 PM
#45
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: south mississppi
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts