Ram44maR

Hello everyone,

I'm STILL in the process of replacing my VP44, killing the KDP, changing injectors, installing gauges, on and on and on...

Anyway, I dropped the tank last night to accomodate a new fuel pickup [oh yeah, I'm modifying this as well]. While I'm here, I want to address the retarded fuel gauge that's enhanced my life for years now

Does anyone know the part number for the FUEL LEVEL SENDING UNIT attached to the plastic body of the factory tank module??

I phoned the folks at my local Dodge D-E-A-L-E-R [founder, please note no "S" in the spelling] and had my wife run by to pick it up. The box label reads: 05014461AA, "Float Kit 26 Gal BR 98."

I opened up the box to find something vaguely similar to the part I removed [I mean, it did have a float arm ], but it isn't the same part. This thing is quite a bit smaller and doesn't have holes to accomodate the two phillips screws required to mount it.

If anyone has the part number, please write back; my tank is out and waiting.

Have great one,
Bill
PS - Just in case: '98.5 2500 SLT 4x4 Short Bed Quad with 24v CTD AND 34 gallon fuel tank.

RCW

Bill,

Just drill the old aluminum hinge rivit for the float, pick up a section of aluminum welding rod and smack over both ends after you use it to replace the OEM hinge pin. That is where 99.9% of the fuel gauge problems arise, and it is a six cent fix.

Ram44maR

Thanks for the reply, RCW!

I did eventually get the proper fuel level sending unit: PART NUMBER 04897670AB [really nothing more than a fancy rheostat].

After I received it, I did a bit of research on the thing. As with your suggestion, the focus seems to be on the pivot pin the float arm swings on. Therefore, I carefully removed the entire float arm by prying it up behind the pivot point. I then cut the plastic pin "nipple" off of the pivot point so that it was level with the plastic under it. In short, this acts to expose the tip of the pivot pin once the thing is reassembled.

Next, I removed the pin itself from the resistor section of the sender and threaded its tip [about 3/16" down] with a 4x40 die. I then reinserted the pin back into the resistor section, carefully reinstalled the float arm and punched the pin all the way back into the resistor section body.

After that, I placed a #6 nylon flat washer over the exposed/ threaded part of the pin and then threaded a stainless #4 machine nut onto the newly threaded pin. Also, please note that the inner threads of the nut were treated with Permatex threadlocker RED before it was put on the pin. It's also helpul to note that a 1/4" inch shallow well socket can be used to tighten the #4 nut, but use your fingers only to turn the socket (otherwise, the arm will not pivot freely enough).

Another thing to keep in mind is that the "pivot pin" must remain smooth to act as a proper pivot. Therefore, you can only thread the exposed tip of the pin!

Once the threadlocker cures, the whole level sender can be reinstalled onto the plastic body of the fuel module.

As I'm still awaiting a modified fuel pickup, I haven't reassembled the fuel tank yet. Therefore, I haven't as yet tested my modified fuel level sender and/or the factory fuel gauge in my SLT. Once I have, I will report on it. Down the road, I hope to report that my modification passes the test of time.

Hope this helps someone,
Bill