Copenhagenjunkie

This really sucks, I just spent a wad of $$$ to get my other 2 gauges.
I have a coolant leak or I should say a seep at the head gasket right below the thermostat housing. It's not really much cause the coolant level in the overflow and in the radiator is ok.

Oil color is normal. Should I do an oil sample?

How tough is it to pull the head? Should I fix it asap or keep an eye on it? Personally I think I should fix it asap, check for warpage and what else?

Thanks.

Dorkweed

Rub a little chew juice on it and see if that helps!!! Copenhagen cures everything... right???? Just keep an I on the coolant level for a while before you dive into anything major. It may fix itself.

Copenhagenjunkie

If that would fix it I would rub some cope on it!

I cleaned the antifreeze residue off the block and made the 100 mile trek home (driving like I stole it). Before shutting off I took a look and no antifreeze leaking.

Would it start leaking during cool down?

RCW

Do a system pressure test before you pull the engine down to change the headgasket. You want to ascertain the amount of leakage before you charge forward. If it is just a seep that does not register on a pressure test, spring for some Barr's Leak and dose the system and run it until you have a real leak. This will usually last for years.

If you have to pull the head, get all new headbolts or get a set of aftermarket studs - I always go for the studs. The OEM headbolts are a one time use only device, and reuse will cause you great headaches.

If you pull the head, it is fairly easy if you loosen the body and jack it up to clear the closed cowl, have it magnafluxed. Most 24 valve heads fail between the exhaust valves before the start weeping coolant out the front.

torquefan

Almost every CTD I've pulled the head off, was leaking in that same spot. The coolant passage is really close to the edge of the casting. When you pull it apart be sure to check it with a straightedge. If it's just seeping you might have a little time to budget for it. My 96 is seeping there too, and I've just been keeping an eye on it. I've never lifted the body up to do one, but it may be worth the extra time. Use an engine crane to lift and lower the head, even if you have a helper. It's a bit of work, but I find the 24 valves easier than the 94-98's- the head bolts are all the same length and easier to torque. Don't miss the fuel return line, it is banjo-bolted dead center on the rear of the head and can't be seen.

kd460

I have found that some leaks (or ones that have just started) only seem to happen when the engine is warming up or when it is cooling down, not when fully warm, or not when fully cold. It has to do with minute movement of the head/block at the gasket from thermal expnsion/contraction. Kevin

Copenhagenjunkie

Thanks for the info and tips.

Just checked it, truck has not moved for 24 hrs. One small run down the block. I guess I will watch it for now. I am going to see if the diesel instructor at the college where I work will do a head removal class soon !!!

With the miles I have I may just start saving and do the bottom end, rings and head all at once OR just get another running engine cause of that unlucky cast numbered block.

I did take an oil sample and will post results. Hopefully no glycol.

Haulin_in_Dixie

I hate to tell you this, but the leak will grow. I watched mine for a month or so, and finally it was bad enough that bars leaks would not stop it. It was not mentioned, but use the bars leaks pellets, not the other stuff. Its in the see through plastic jars. That is the real bars leaks that works and wont hurt the engine or heater.

RCW

There is no sense saving to do the bearings and rings. These engines will run several hundred thousand miles before that is ever necessary. The head is a known issue, and if you only have a seep that amounts to a drop, do dose it with Barr's Leak - use the big bottle for diesels, or two of the little car sized bottles. If if does not stop the problem for a very long time, tell me about it, because it will be the first time it has not worked.

To use Barr's Leak, drain off about an inch of water from the radiator cap, get the rig warm, and then add the Barr's Leak with the engine running. Let it run for at least 20 minutes, and then let it stand overnight with the radiator cap cracked open. The next day top off the coolant, and then tighten the cap and drive normally. It may seep for a day or two, but it will eventually stop drooling.

Copenhagenjunkie

Bars leak- big clear bottle, saw it at walmart yesterday, spent 30 min. reading the directions about 15 times or so, but still very reluctant though.

HID says bars leak, then I will do it- you would know.

I just hope it works at the leak and not somewhere else.

Thanks.

Haulin_in_Dixie

Have no fear with Bars Leaks pellets. I had first a head gasket, used it, then the cracked block, ran dozens of bottles through it till the leak was so bad I could not drive it, then on this engine I used it with the same problem you have. Never plugged the heater or any negative effects.

My Honda bike and the Suzuki bike both come from the factory with it as do many vehicles.