Lunyfringe

I have a '98 12 valve, with around 265k miles..

after replacing both the pre-filter and the filter, it wouldn't start- then I realized I didn't fill the housings....

I got it running at one point by filling the fuel filter housing and bleeding the system... then it stumbled and died again...

now I get no fuel when attempting to bleed the injectors...

starting to wonder if I have an air leak on the vacuum side of the lift pump, as I seem to get intermittent performance with the priming procedure- it seems to pump for a bit, purging air, then I get almost nothing...

any guidance here, I'm about at my wits end...

Thanks,

Gary

Geico266

Better start with the fuel lines all the way to the fuel module if you are getting air in the lines. The LP sounds weak so you might want to just replace it. Then you'll know it's new. Hopefully, its not the IP.

Here is a better choice than stock for the LP, and it comes with all the fuel lines and everything you'll need for around $350. No, I don't rep them.

http://www.dieselpp.com/

phox_mulder

12 valve, most likely something else.


phox

Geico266

It's got to be air in the fuel system and not enough pressure to get it out.

kd460

Retrace your steps, make sure your not leaking somewhere. Did you use the primer bulb on the lift pump while the bleed screw was loose?

If you have access to a compressor, loosen the bleed screw on the top of the filter housing, go to your fuel filler, remove cap, using a rag and about 5 psi (not any more thn that), pressurize the tank to get the fuel thru the lines, the prefilter, the lift pump and the filter/housing full of fuel (heard about that one from infidel) Once you get fuel out of the bleed screw, tighten that up.

Now go to the fuel line that enters the injection pump. Loosen the banjo that connects the fuel line to the inj. pump, then go down to the primer bulb on the lift pump, and pump it about 10,000 times actually, just pump it allot till you see fuel coming out of the connection you just loosened. Tighten that up, go over to your number 6 injector, loosen that line, crank it over for a few seconds, let the starter cool down, and repeat. Should start after within the first 2 or 3 tries. Just remeber to let the starter cool between crankings.

Oh yeah, tighten the injector back up after it is running, but shut it off first. 18,000 psi hurts. Good luck, Kevin

Lunyfringe

I've tried pressurizing the fuel tank with the banjo bolt on the top of the filter (the outlet) cracked open...

I seem to get the air out, and then it won't start, and I seem to have air in the system again...

I've pushed on the pump plunger enough that the rubber boot has cracked & torn.... but the plastic tube doesn't appear to be leaking... may be time to get a new lift pump anyway- the condition of this rubber makes me think it's original.. with 265k miles, it's gotta be getting tired...

I've also bought rubber fuel lines (injection hose) to replace the notorious ones behind the engine.... I may put clear ones on temporarily to see if I'm getting bubbles from the tank....

the 90* hose that connects the pre-filter to the lift pump doesn't look too good, either- any good source for getting that part?

Thanks in advance...

Lunyfringe

Got it....

it was a loose nut behind my wrenches....

I was going to take off the fuel filter housing to get better access to the line behind there- and while moving the wiring out of the way, I noticed there's a small 10mm screw on top of the fuel filter banjo bolt (couldn't see it with the wiring in the way)...

"hmm, I wonder if that's the air bleed?"

cracked it open, pressurized the fuel tank again, and watched it bubble for more than a minute...

then tried the primer plunger... still no more air bubbles... tried to start, no dice... cracked the banjo bolt on the injection pump with the fuel tank pressurized, and let more air out... when it seemed good, buttoned it back up, and cracked open a couple injectors... it started to fire on the 2nd revolution.... let it stumble a bit, then shutdown and tightened the injectors...

then it started like it would any morning!

Thanks for your help, fellas (especially kd460)

Just alot harder than I thought to get all the air out, and it helps to use the air bleed screw

well, my first fuel filter change is done- and I've learned alot more about my truck (and Diesels in general, this is my 1st diesel truck)

Thanks again,

Gary

kd460

Good that ya got it goin. Next filter change won't be that tough. Usually, after changing the filter, if you leave the bleed screw loose while hitting the primer button, that will be enough to get it going, however, I still like pressurizing the tank to fill the filter cannister (with the bleed screw loose). Others will fill the cannister by removing the bleed screw and filling it with fuel using a small funnel in the bleed screw hole.

The 90* hose is a cummins part. The primer bulb rubber has dried out from age. Wont affect the pump, just keeps things clean. I crazy glued mine back together a year ago and still holding. Good luck, Kevin

Lunyfringe

kewl, thanks for the info...

I need to get some more hose to do the one behind the filter (I got 1/4", not 5/16")

I'll probably butcher the same inner tube to make a boot for that and the shutdown solenoid (which I noticed is torn, too)

but now I can go off emergency mode, since it's running well again..