92DIESEL

I noticed a puddle under my truck today. It was oil. I wiped down the engine trans(auto) ond everything else (oil all over, all the way to the rear bumper) . I started the truck and heard a little tick sound and the oil started dripping from the cover plate on the bell housing. Is this the rear seal or something simple? What can I do to stop the leak? Can I still drive it?(if I keep adding oil)
Please help, Im at my wits end with this truck- nothing but problems since I got it.

wannadiesel

Sure it's motor oil and not ATF? If it's motor oil coming out of there, rear main seal is the only thing it could be. It's not an uncommon problem. Sounds like the NJ turnpike authority got rid of it just in time.

92DIESEL

Its oil alright. and quite a bit can this be fixed without taking the engine out?
or do I have to do a overhaul? Can I still drive it?(add oil)
Thanks, Michael

wannadiesel

You have to drop the trans, but the engine stays in. As long as you can keep oil in it, you won't hurt it any by driving. There's a repair sleeve for the crank if it's been grooved by the seal.

92DIESEL

thanks agin, by the way where do you find these parts I cant find them anywhere.
since I have a leak in the front and back (both crank shaft) should I see about pulling the engine? This is my only form of transport so Im hessitant to do this.
Is there any additive i can use for now
hanks, Michael

wannadiesel

You'll have to get the parts from a Cummins dealer, Cummins' web site has a dealer locator page to help you find one close to you.

I don't think you ought to pull the engine, that would be a little extreme unless that coolant leak you mentioned before is the freeze plug on the back of the block.

You could try a "mechanic-in-a-can" type fix, but remember you'll need to double dose because you've got 11 quarts in the pan. If one treatment doesn't cure it, I wouldn't do another. Those products work by swelling seals, they basically attack the seal material and soften it up. One treatment won't hurt the good seals, but a long term diet of stop-leak type products will kill them.

92DIESEL

thanks again- the coolant leak ended up to be the heater core line near the firewall, It only ****** under 15lbs of presure (onto the back of the block). Ill try the "mechanic in a can" hope it works for now- short on funds . How come everone keeps saying 11 qts when I changed my oil and added 11 qts the dipstick said add. I ended up putting 15qts in. What gives
Thanks again, Michael

wannadiesel

Maybe you have the wrong dipstick? The engine takes 11 quarts plus the filter. So basically 3 gallons. That puts mine just a smidgen over the "full" line. Next oil change, put in 11 quarts, run the engine till it's hot, shut it down for 5 minutes in a level spot, pull the dipstick and mark your new "add" line. Put in another quart, give it a few minutes to get into the pan, then mark your new "full" line.

92DIESEL

Thanks again- I need to get a FSM and soon.
I just got back in from putting my tools away and noticed below the rear valve cover some oil staining and that continued to the bell housing flange (which was wet with oil)- can that drip through the bell housing and give me the leak? it only leaks when its running and about 3-5min after shut off.
Thanks again, Michael

apache

Valve cover gaskets are cheap, many reuse them endlessly. Cummins has an updated rear main kit of sorts$80, mine was done at 100k as preventative. If you pull the trans PLEASE check your flex plate. these are prone to cracking apart and the center comming undone from the rest.If yours went 180K it might be bad and ready to come apart. I belive there is a tin cover that prevents you from really seeing anything unless you remove the crank bolts and pull the cover. This is a Cummins part at $85.00 or so or Dodge for $200.00+ same part. It is said a later 2nd gen is stronger and will be a direct replacement. Maybe someone will chime in on the inspection. Once you get the bug ironed out youll be happy. Being a goverment vehicle it might have 180k but a million idleing hours on it.
hang in there.

92DIESEL

apache, Thanks for the advice. I have their maintance log book- they changed the injector pump@ 165k and turbo@ 156k they changed oil&filter every 3k and other filters every 6k so i thought it was well maintained. but I never thought about the idle time- you may be right. Can I do the rear seal myself by taking the trans out? What is a flex plate and where can I find it?
Thanks again, Michael

apache

The flex plate is bolted to the crank, think of it as a flywheel. It connects the torque converter to the motor. Honestly, your problems are not uncommon. My injector pump was done at 97k or so, then the flex plate went at 100k. Sounds like it was well maintained, it should last for a long time. Remember the engine is tops, the rest is still gonna wear as any other truck would. If your mechanically inclined you can do the work yourself. I had mine done by a shop, i just dont have the time or motivation myself.

Lil Dog

I did the rear main seal on my 93 myself.. Not a big job really. The hardest part is getting the old seal out, which took a couple metal screws and a 1/8 drill. The seal is replacable without removing the pan or the rear seal cover. Some shops remove the entire seal cover on the rear of the engine which isn't necessary.

I had a 5 speed so I rented a tranny jack and the rest was a little heavy lifting of the clutch and flywheel. With just the flex plate, it should be a snap.

When you order the seal from CUMMINS get the one with the crank sleeve. It would suck to replace just the seal and have it blow out again next year because of a bad fit on the crank.

J-eh

92DIESEL

Thanks so much guys, Ive located a cummins dealer about 40mi from me and hope to be able to order the parts soon(money is short now). I think I will try the repair myself, I have done quite a bit of mechanics (dad class A for 43yrs). One more question- Should I get a stock flex plate or go with a 2nd gen( I've heard they are interchangeable)? I do some hauling but not much towing. Just want to get it to the point I'm not worring everytime I drive it.
Thanks again, Michael

apache

They have a different part## as i understand. I am told they will interchange. I belive its a 95 plate. The ## are Dodge# 5015709 for $295.00 or Cummins 3946161 for $95.00. Physically I dont know the difference, Its your preferance or it might come down to time for avaliability. Unfortunatly I had go with the dodge #. There are some billet units avaliable if your inclined. a bit more pricy though. You should spend some time in the search and tech facts. Youll read for hours and learn on your truck.