adjusted gov. arm stripped threads on AFC
#1
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adjusted gov. arm stripped threads on AFC
so i reinstalled the afc and one of the bolt holes threads were all stripped out. is it okay for the afc to have one loose bolt? more importantly, is there a way to fix it?
After i adjusted the gov. arm I IMMEDIATLY noticed that it idled MUCH quieter then before. It no longer sounds like a tank from WWII. It now purs nicely. The second thing i noticed was on the test drive. It now has almost no Mid-range power. If i try to speed up while its already moving, it is very slow to pick up speed. But from a dead stop, it is an absolute monster!! It squeals the tires and puts out a ton of smoke. Im gonna roll the star wheel back to see if it calms the smoke down a little. I havent driven it on the freeway yet to see what it does. Any advice?
After i adjusted the gov. arm I IMMEDIATLY noticed that it idled MUCH quieter then before. It no longer sounds like a tank from WWII. It now purs nicely. The second thing i noticed was on the test drive. It now has almost no Mid-range power. If i try to speed up while its already moving, it is very slow to pick up speed. But from a dead stop, it is an absolute monster!! It squeals the tires and puts out a ton of smoke. Im gonna roll the star wheel back to see if it calms the smoke down a little. I havent driven it on the freeway yet to see what it does. Any advice?
#2
Did you slide the AFC housing all the way forward? How is the power on the top end? Is the arm accidentally going under the plate? May need to bring it up a tad.
Wait a minute. Just remembered something. Is the boost line hooked up the AFC and not pinched or cut somewhere? That could do it as well.
There some guys that only have 2 or 3 bolts holding the AFC. There may have been someone who used a heli-coil to fit it as well.
Wait a minute. Just remembered something. Is the boost line hooked up the AFC and not pinched or cut somewhere? That could do it as well.
There some guys that only have 2 or 3 bolts holding the AFC. There may have been someone who used a heli-coil to fit it as well.
#3
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The plate is about right in the middle. I have a boost elbow on the wastegate, but i have not ever tightened the bolt down to close off the wastegate. It idles much smoother now. I dont know if it's going under the plate nor do i know how to check. I havent had it out on the freeway to test out top end.
#4
you can helicoil the hole.....use some silicone to temporarily attach a platic cap from an injector, or brake caliper etc on the bottom of the hole to catch metal drillings. If it's one of the bottom bolts, drill away and screw in the heli coil. If it's a top hole, you can make a dam with a piece of masking tape to keep shavings from dropping into the pump. A magnet also helps. Remember, it's cast iron to most of the fillings will most likely be powdery, unless you have a really sharp drill.
Hopefully you're not screwing around too much without gauges....fill in your signature. If your running gauges, what is the boost gauge telling you?
Hopefully you're not screwing around too much without gauges....fill in your signature. If your running gauges, what is the boost gauge telling you?
#5
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I covered the top of the pump with duct tape and HeliCoil a couple holes. When I was finished I used compressed air to clean the area, then remove the tape and put the AFC back.
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On my old truck. I just used a smaller bolt and went all the way through and then used a nut on the back side. The other 3 were still the original ones that worked.
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