crobtex

CRUMB!
I think I have developed the same problem this week. Had to reset the APPS once last week, and now twice today.

I've had the EZ on since last November and the Check Engine light came on for the first time last week. Also had the momentary loss of power. Autozone read the codes and got the 0121. Is it normal for the problem to show up six months after the EZ was installed?

Are there any pics out there to show me exactly where the APPS is? I'd like to take a look at it and maybe clean it before dropping $300. If I can remember where the plugs go, I think I'll unhook the EZ for a while too.

????? Will taking the jumper completely off the EZ put things back to pre EZ, or do you have to remove everything?

CR

crobtex

The latest:

I called Edge and was told that the EZ had to be completly removed before things went back to stock. No jumpers equals the max hp setting. The guy was extremly helpful and seemed truely interested in solving my problem. He said that if the APPS problem went away, they would replace the EZ at no cost.

* Disconnected all + & - battery cables
* Unplugged EZ and reconnected MAP sensor and dummy plug into Data Link
* Waited forty minutes and reconnected the batteries and performed APPS reset
* Check Engine light was still on
* Back to Autozone for code read. Still 0121 - APPS
* Stopped at the loacal quickstop to buy the winning ticket for Wednesday nights $87,000,000 Texas Lottery
* Started the truck and ............NO Check Engine light


I'd still like to know where the APPS is so I can take a look at it and make sure all of the connection, etc are kosher.

Thanks,
CR

RowJ

Just saw your thread...
The APPS assembly is located at top left front of the engine. It is under a plastic cover. The actual sensor is located behind it's mounting bracket.
If you have a fax- let me know if would like the 3 pages on the APPS, with diagrams, from service manual?

Rowland

crobtex

rjohnson,

Thanks for your response. I'll be looking at it here shortly.

I guess it's not the EZ. While on my way home a few minutes ago, it lost power again and the Check Engine came on. I haven't had the codes read again, but I'm sure that's what it is. Guess I'll rest it again.

I don't have a fax, but if you can attach the pages to an email I would appreciate it. I'll pm you with my email address.

Thanks, CR

mrpiano458nte

Well hello to everyone again. This is Myles the "pianoman" with the 2002 Dodge Ram. As you all remember, I had the acceleration problem a few weeks back. My mechanic, upon the advice of Chrysler, installed a lift pump because they didn't want to face the fact that my injector pump was toasted.

After driving the "repaired" truck for about 350 miles, I am once again experiencing an acceleration "dead zone" betweem 1,000-1,500 rpm. I called my mechanic from the road this afternoon, told him about the problem, and he said he would contact Chrysler to order an IP.

My question to all you guys is, will my "new" lift pump still be good or should that be replaced as well? It ran real nice and strong when it was first installed, but now I'm wondering if it is still functioning up to par? Any advice would be helpful.

Thanks to all of you.....Myles from Country Piano www.countrypiano.com

phox_mulder

Most likely the lift pump is ok.

Your original going bad shortened the life of the injection pump, replacing it by itself was a very small bandaid.

Can't remember if you have a fuel pressure guage (to tired to read back through the entire thread as well )
If you don't, I'd get one.
If you have one, 15-20 at idle and nothing below 8 WOT is good.

If you don't have a guage (scrolled though the thread real quck) you could have your mechanic test the pressures again while he is in there replacing the VP44.


phox

supertorquer

I have a 99 2500 diesel with almost the same problem. Start it cold and it does not want to accelerate when the accelerator pedal is pressed. Sometimes if the pedal is held dowm for a while it will start working properly again. It only does it part of the time, mostly when it is cold. It seems to have lost a little power recently and the problem has gotton a bit worse. Last winter I got some bad fuel and had to drain my tank, change filter 4 times and blead my injectors. Could this have toasted my transfer pump or my injector pump? Any imformation would be a big help.

Something else that happened recently, I had to have my 47RE automatic rebuilt. After putting in a ATS triple LOK converter and a rebuild with a trans co shift kit, i had a lockup problem with the converter. Come to find out, it was an electronic problem. There was "noise" on the apps signal wire, and it was not grounded good. It would lock and unlock repeatedly going down the road. ATS had me run a new signal wire and groud the apps. Tranny works great now. Anyone else heard of this? My 2 local dealers did not know anything about it, eventhough the directions that ATS sent me was a chrysler bulliten.

MnTom

Welcome supertorquer! the symptoms of your tranny are something that a lot of people have run into. The dealer always seems to say "We never heard of that problem" even though there is a TSB or something out on it. As far as your accelerator problem, you need to find out if there are any codes stored. You can go to a lot of auto parts stores and they will read the codes (some even do it free). Once you have the codes you can go here to see what they mean:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1
Good luck and let us know what you find out.
Tom

MOUSE

My 2000 had the same problems as discussed in this thread, The vp-44 was in death mode First the acc. problem will show up, then hard to start when hot, then hard to start cold. I replaced my vp-44 in two hours

crobtex

MOUSE,

What did you have to do after it was replaced? Timing, purge, etc.

Please fill in your sig so we can see what kind truck you have.

CR

MOUSE

Replaced the vp44, pulled the plug out just below the wiring harness on the back of the pump (6mm allen) left 1,2,4, injector lines finger tight turned on the key and bumped starter, this will run pump for about 25 sec. reinstall plug in pump. crank engine for 15 sec, let starter cool for about 1 min repeat this about 4 times tighten injector lines, and start. Note after starting run for at least 20 miles, all modules and sensors are in a relearn state it is normal for the engine to run rough until all air is purged, and modules relearn.

mrpiano458nte

Hello again...Myles here with the 2002 24 valve motor. Well, the mechanic just installed the new Injector pump. He also installed a fuel pressure gauge so I can see how things are doing. Here were his readings....15 at idle.....12 at cruising...and 3 at WOT. He didn't like the last one and said it was way too low. So now he thinks there's a restriction in the filter which is in the gas tank!!!!! So he's going to drop the tank and see what's what. Do you believe all this crap? First he did the lift pump replacement, then a week later the Injector pump, and now the tank filter. I'm at my wits end.

mrpiano458nte

OK, now that the tank filter has been replaced, the WOT is now reading 6-7 lbs. (I also had a fuel pressure gauge installed and it's going to be a real handy thing to have) The mechanic is now happy with the final results. He's really a superb repairman! His knowledge of diesels far surpasses anyone else in my area. If any of you ever have diesel trouble and are in the vicinity of Watkins Glen, NY, just look up Midway Trucking and ask for Artie. He definitely knows his stuff.

Thanks to all of you for your past help...I really appreciate all your fine responses!

Myles
Country Piano
www.countrypiano.com