I'm about to buy a 1998 Dodge Ram 3500 DRW with a 12-valve Cummins.

What would you check for on this truck before buying it?

What potential problems should I be looking for?

And does anyone know a good mechanic for these trucks near Lancaster, PA?

Thank you

 

First thing is make sure that it is cold and has not been recently started when you go to check it out(that way cold start problems should surface). Check trans fluid condition if auto(color should be red not brown and should not smell burnt). Check coolant color and smell to make sure it isn't rancid. Then start it up and while it's warming up for about 5 min check trans fluid level and look for leaks and unusual noises. Take it for a test drive at least 5 miles trying to hit different driving conditions such as highway and bumpy roads looking for vibrations, brake pedal pulsations and upshift/downshift quality. When you get back from a test drive it should be getting up close to operating temp if you were driving hard enough, check for hot restart problems.
If you can:
Get brakes checked out especially rears and check for leaking wheel cylinders and rotted brake lines.
Check balljoints and axle joints if 4wd
Check driveshaft u-joints

 

Thank you for the reply!

We picked up the truck this afternoon and will be taking it to a diesel specialist this week. I'm most concerned about the infamous KDP! That sounds like a serious problem that can happen at any time.

Are there any other suggestions?

Thank you again.

 

....see if it is the infamous #53 block (a search will give you more info than you could ever want) -
- congrats on the new rig!

 

Check the left side of the timing case to see if it's been fixed with JB Weld or something. There's a dowel pin in the timing case that works it's way out and can get jammed in the timing gears. It usually gets punched out the case. Search for KDP or Killer Dowel Pin. This needs to be taken care of if you buy the truck. It's a cheap easy fix if it hasn't come out. If it has come out, you're looking at tearing the front of the engine down to replace the timing case. Good luck with the new truck.

 

More great suggestions. Thank you! I'm making a list from your suggestions.

 

Definitely take it to a good front end shop, you would be surprised how much a new track bar, ball joints, tie rod ends, brakes, axle seals and front axle u-joints will cost you if there worn. With labor, in excess of $2000.00

 

47RE or NV?

2WD or 4WD?

 

The truck is a 4WD automatic.

 

Just for the heck of it I always look at the exhaust manifold right at the head, if it is a chalk white color the temp was high and worked hard at some point in it's life ... on the other hand if it is rust color throughout I would say it has a nice easy life as far as heat & work. Not that this means a lot my neighbor has a 92 Auto hauls cattle up a big grade natually his is white but his truck is still running just fine ... but it works really hard for a old dog

 

How can I tell if I have a 48RE transmission?

 

Unless somebody upgraded you should have a 47re.

 

I've read concerns here about the 47RE transmission. Is there anything I should look for with the 47RE transmission? And what are the upgrades that are possible for the transmission?