missouriman

I have one of the 50.00 code checkers. no codes.

also truck is new to me, 200,000 miles. My first diesel ever.

has been in shop for water pump, filter changes fuel transmission and oil.
I know this is long winded but it said to describe every thing leading up to the problem.

I have some additional questions at the end.
I will thank you at this time for reading all of this.

had been plugged in all night, 15 out this morning
started and drove fine.
going to work 8 miles away.

at the stop light right at work, I heard a click behind the dash right in front of me.
tach went to 0 then right back to 800. then to 0 again and right back up.
check engine light came on.
running very rough, no power, pushing on the peddle just made the coughing louder.

turned it off, thought ugggg.
started right back up ran smooth for about 20 seconds and started to run rough again. tach only dropped a little.

13 hours at work.

went to try to limp it home.
started right up, ran fine for about 3 or 4 blocks pulled over shut it off.
started right up..
so the cycle of getting it home in a blizzard started.
about every 2 miles it would run rough, slow down to a crawl. shut it off. start again.
last few times I would shut it off coasting down the road and restart and it would be fine for a few miles.


now when I got home I had the window down trying to figure out what I wanted to do. it started getting rough and I shut it down.
that is when I heard a new sound, some thing spinning after I shut off the motor. so I started it back up, rev-ed it up some and shut it off. heard this spinning sound again.
best I can describe it is
as if you shut off a worn out, hand held circler saw but not that tinny of a sound.

would the turbo be shot and cause all of this?

if you guys think it is the turbo should I up grade? and to what?
looking at the BD Diesel Super B Turbo 1994-2002 Dodge Cummins 5.9

I had kinda planned on the fass 100 or 150.
the 4 inch mbrp exhaust
the edge with attitude because it comes with guages (I think the sensors also) correct me if I am wrong about the sensors. I want EGT, trans temp, boost, fuel pressure for sure.

I plan on using the truck for daily driving, towing a camper now and then and hauling a lot of stuff.
I want it to be very reliable.
of course there is the power hunger.. grin.
but I am nearing 50 and just can't work out in the cold and snow in a gravel drive like I used to.

thanks for taking the time to read that.
thanks in advance for your guesses and advice.
I am not sure I can even drive it to the repair shop or if I should even try.

missouriman

just read the (please read above).
guess I concider this an emergency as I am trying to figure out if it is safe to drive it or if I should spend the bucks to get it towed.
It is my daily driver and my only back up is my toyota rock crawler.
also I only know of one shop in rapid city south dakota and they are kind of expensive!

I don't want to damage the truck further.

plcnut

A friend of mine with an 02 had a similar problem with a wire in the steering column that had broke in two where the column tilted. You could try and see if playing with the tilt affects anything.

mishkaya

If your tach quit on you, most likely the Cam Position sensor is bad. It affects quite a few things other than the tach though as the ECM and PCM use the signal for various engine functions. If your check engine light came on (and it seems it did) you will have codes stored. First step is to find out what those codes actually are. Being an '02 you can check on the odometer by cycling the key from off to on three times (not start though) and the third time leave it in the on position and codes will appear in the odometer window. Let us know.

missouriman

hum, the day before the shop did take the column apart looking for my reverse light problem..
I wonder if they crimped that wire you are talking about.
may need to go out and take that column apart and take a look.
thanks.
I will try the key thing also.

Busboy

Key on/off/on/off/on and read codes on odometer. Like mishkaya says it could be the cam sensor.

missouriman

the tach was working on the way home even when it was running like crap.

missouriman

I am throwing that other code reader away.

P 1693 turbo charge control circuit malfunction
P doNE
P ICU
P 1690 wastegate solenoid circuit malfuntion
P 0230 fuel pump primary circuit malfunction
P 0341 camshaft position sensore range/performance
P 0234 engine over boost condition
P doNE

so going to look and see if I can find out what these mean.
sounds expensive.


http://www.troublecodes.net/OBD2/Pcodes.shtml

mishkaya

P1690 (M) Fuel Injection Pump CKP Sensor
Does Not Agree With ECM CKP
Sensor
Problem in fuel sync signal. Possible injection pump
timing problem. Low power, engine derated, or engine
stops.
P0230 Transfer Pump (Lift Pump) Circuit
Out of Range
Problem detected in fuel transfer pump circuits.
P0341 (M) Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
Signal
Problem with voltage signal from CMP.
P0234 (M) Turbo Boost Limit Exceeded Problem detected in turbocharger wastegate.

Could possibly be a short in the steering column with that many codes, or a ground issue as well. But considering some of the codes, I wouldn't rule out a cam position sensor.
Good luck.

mishkaya

Some of those codes are generic and do not directly apply to our trucks.

missouriman

dark out now.
will take column apart on sat.
where is the cam position sensor?

thanks for your help and looking up those codes.
I guess I was slow on the edit.

how do I clear these codes if I find a shorted or broken
wire?

missouriman

and a big thanks to every one.
think I found my (home) board.
I have this problem posted on 3 other boards from last night.
this is the only one that I have gotten help on.

missouriman

is there a list just for our trucks some where.

felt pretty good finding that one on the net.

mishkaya

Cam position sensor is a bear to get to, it's located underneath the VP44 and I have only replaced it when the VP44 was out, at which time it was an easy swap. I think it's a 5mm allen to get it off, and you will need someone with tiny hands...

mishkaya

To clear codes, you need a good code scanner (which I guess yours is not...). If you know someone in your area with a Smarty, that will do it to. Otherwise codes will go away on their own after so many key cycles.