Bought a 97 with an overheat. re-sleeved one cyl. 6 new pistons{they replace as set , the rings are moved down on new pistons. } decked head, and block, one new valve ,valve job etc. put motor in truck filled tank with fuel, bled as instructed,loosened bleed nut on filter housing primer button until fuel comes out ,un plug fuel shut off sol. cranked and cranked with battery charger on 125 amp start mode on one battery, chevy truck and jumpers on other batt. loosened injector lines at injectors no fuel. loosened lines on top of pump ,no fuel. loosened at banjo return-fuel lots when primer button pushed crank for 30 sec little fuel almost like it was draining back crank it and titghten while pumping fuel stillno fuel out of top of pump! take oil fill tube off pump shaft and gear going around. #1 piston tdc pump alignment dohickey in place when put all together. plug in or not {fuel solenoid} no fuel! cranked truck many many times I'm not a diesel guy this is my first. otherwise mechanicaly inclined. computers and typin not my strong pt. please help! post here or cal 704-477-4456 or I'll callyou your rewardfor helping? at least an atta boy uda man forever grateful. OH YEAH IN MY MANUAL THERE IS AN OIL FILL ON TOP OF THE PUMP ,I REMOVED THE PLUG AND FILLED WITH OIL THINKING TRUCK HAS'NT RUN IN AWHILE I BETTER PRIME PUMP WITH OIL OOPS?

 

If you "un plug fuel shut off sol. cranked and cranked" have you prevented the fuel soleniod from operating and thus not allowing fuel to reach the injection pump?

 

I find I can start the truck much easier after it looses prime if I hold the throtle wide open while cranking. I guess it tries to pump more fuel like that. There is also a thread here somewhere about pressurizing the fuel tank SLIGHTLY with a compressor - but I can't seem to find it. Maybe some else can give you the details.

 

sunday morn. thanx for the replies gona go try the w.o.t. and alittle pressure in all the threads i see replacing the rubber lines is a major theme also i guess they suck air but don't show leaks until pressurized

 

cycle the key and verify that the shut off solenoid is working, check the rubber lines at the back of the block and at the tank. my 96' came home running one night and would not start again...it had an air leak in the rubber line that was so small i could not even see it.

 

It does not hurt that you put engine oil in the pump, it will just run back to the engine, and the pump then holds about a cup for internal lubrication.

From your description of the events, I agree with the post that you should not have disconnected the fuel shut off solenoid. In fact, it would not hurt to wire it open during the prime cycle if there is any evidence that it will not hold in the up position after you tap the starter and leave the key on. Just keep in mind that you will have to unwire it to shut it down.

One thing that surprises me is that the rings are lower on the replacement pistons than your OEM set. That means you have now installed a set of either industrial or earlier engine version 5.9 B series pistons. Not a bad thing, and they are actually a much better piston but they do create too much smoke if you are in a state that does emission testing.

If your pump is losing its prime after you get it all primed, check the overflow valve to be sure it is working properly. Invisible cracks in the fuel hoses will also lead to losing the prime, but that generally takes several hours.

If the rig will not prime at all no matter what, then check the fuel pick-up hose in the tank. What happens is that they crack about a third of the way down and will pull air. Fill the tank to the top and the crack is covered and they pull fuel just fine, then let it get down a bit and they pull air.

I assume you have good clean filters, and the water drain is closed. But, there is another filter that 90% of the owners never check. That is a screen in the fuel heater. When it gets dirty it will collect water and allow it to develop gel that will plug the flow. Also, check your heater wire connection for any air leak. The best solution there is to unplug the wire connection at the heater, fill the connector with dielectric gel and replug the connector. That will get you by until it is replaced with a new heater unit, or just about forever as long as you keep it gel filled.

One thing to keep in mind is that air leaks are most often never visable, the holes generally are microscopic and do not weep diesel. So, all hoses should be replaced on a regular schedule. The same air leak logic applies to making sure the fuel heater is properly tightened together and the fuel filter and water separator are tightened to specs.

 

If you're doing all that crankin, I'd unplug the shutoff solenoid and wire it in the up position. Mine gets plenty toasty when I crank for more than a few seconds.

 

I had a lift pump on my 94 that failed... had a spring come out for the check valve in the pump. Also, you may need to bleed at the injectors so you have fuel right up to the injectors. You also might try pressurizing the fuel tank with no more than about 3-4 psi to assist priming.

 

yes the lines were bad very deteriorated, finally got the sol. to stay in up pos. by turning key to run and manually lift it up then it would stay up until i shut key off. it primed very quickly and fired right up! now it will not rev up only to 1700rpm and smokes like crazy except at idle which is very smooth. no intake restrictions so is my timing retarded ? i have gear puller where is best place to get dial indicator and adaptor? i also found why sol. not lifting someone stole relay ,found an pig tail from wiring harness up on firewall behind brake resevoir, no relay in it, jumper wire snapes that sol. right up! hanes manuals have many mistakes in them i have found over the years, says right in there unplug sol. also se why it got hot on previous owner , i can stop fan blade with bare hand if i wanted , clutch fan is shot. so on to the smoking no power or rpms! should i time it 16 btdc? like 12 or so is stock on this 160hp would like to slide fuel plate forward?

 

I would advance the timing if you are going to set it anyway - 15 to 16 deg (mine is at 16.5). Also just so you know the fan will only "lock" when it warms up as it thermostatically controlled. If / when it locks up you will know - it makes a ton of noise.

 

o.k. so wire the sol with mechanic wire and un plug it so it doesn't fry itself or 51 dollar relay. it is up[ in run pos. but not energized. did you only change timing to 16.5? or move fuel plate to also what is an afc? gsk is aspring to control governor? I get the impression that a egt guage and boost are first to make sure there is no over or under fueling? exhaust temps rise in both cases? what is normal or at least safe temps? yes i have subscribed to a diesel perf catalog the hanes manual is to simple no explanations, some of the stuff and abbreviations on this site lose me. would someone post an abbreviations explanation under newbies read here for lingo please?!hey at least i now know what a dv is and i'm gonna remove #1 and put my spx miller #6860 dial indicator in there to time my injection mac tool man wants $472.00 any sugesstions ? someplace isaw 200. my clutch fan is a bit wobbley also but it wqas a cold day i will wait to get it up to temp and see what happens i checked my gas chevy and it has the same play in it . any flex fans out there ?

 

new solenoid pack from dodge 56.00 has the lift and hold up when runnin relays sorry not solenoid just the relays, it starts better i think the lift relay holds it up better than just manually lifting it also timing i set initially was crank locator tdc pin in ANd the p7100 pump timing tab centered the little reversable plastic pin that locates pump rotation . so that will get you running but it was way off. i went to sears bought a dial indicator that reads .oo1 of an inch 1 inch total, indicator goes around 1 to1 the mm is 2to1 so used a rigid pipe wrench 12" to remo ve #one delivery valve used athin piece of metal to use as the holder for the 36.00dollar dial indicator, my timing was around 9before tdc set it at.25" two and a half revolutions on the dial equals about 6.5 mm which is 16.5 degrees for cpl 1549. check your cpl # on the side of the engine data plate then the hanes man. has wha is what ex. cpl 1549 5.9=13.5 14=6.0 etc. imarked my crank shaft dampner so i know where tdc is without all the timing pin stuff and marked my pump shaft with a cut off wheel put a notch on it so i know where it is timed now and can just loosen nut on pump pull gear rotate crank re tighten nut and try diffrent timmings not as easy as a distributor but same diffrence. iwill track mileage for awhile and see how it goes. i am going to put in a pyro guage next before moving the fuel plate and star wheel . also use a pair of vise grips to limit wastegate opening for more boost, remove intake tube on turbo take out cone and snap ring for sound effect, remove cat, gut it. iput a kand n filter in. all this is free power mileage, its christmas so until spring this is it. check back tis summer as i will be upgrading the fuel plate governer springs intake exhaust etc. i just put a 427.00 center force kit in my gas chevy and am happy but everyone says go with stock or south bend. hope my research helps someone don't Dodge it RAM IT!