Whats the story with the casting #53?
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Whats the story with the casting #53?
Hey guys, im looking for a unique swap and have come up with putting a Cummins in a S-10. The reason is, Im a GM guy,.. but love the power of a Cummins...
anyways, i have found a sweet deal, or i think anyways, on ebay.. its a Casting #53 Complete block,.. he says there is a crack below one of the freeze plugs, he also stated that is normal fault with this casting block... was wondering if it would be fixable? can you weld cast? its going for 350 bucks as we speak.. or any other info about that specific engine would be greatly appreciated... thanks
Chris
anyways, i have found a sweet deal, or i think anyways, on ebay.. its a Casting #53 Complete block,.. he says there is a crack below one of the freeze plugs, he also stated that is normal fault with this casting block... was wondering if it would be fixable? can you weld cast? its going for 350 bucks as we speak.. or any other info about that specific engine would be greatly appreciated... thanks
Chris
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You might have to stretch the front end out. The Cummins 6 banger is a bit long. The 4 banger version might fit OK though it's still a bit longer than the 4 banger they put in the S-10. Mine has a V-6 and when it goes I'm thinking about putting the 4BT in there.
Edwin
Edwin
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I would have no problem having to "x-tend" or modify the front clip to make it fit.. and would rig up for the cooling system to be in the bed.. I have seen a few pictures of a truck with a cummins in it.. but it was also a SFA truck too..
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Dropping a 5.9L Cummins in an S-10 is likely a much bigger project than you realize. Tons of fabrication there including frame modification. You do know that the engine weighs 1000 lbs??
Steer clear of the #53 - cracked or otherwise.
Steer clear of the #53 - cracked or otherwise.
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Not to be negative, but what good is a cracked block? My neighbor's 01 just developed it's crack about a month ago, it's a 53 block. He was able to get cummins to replace the block for free but wanted over 4 grand for labor. He found a shop that will get the new block and labor for 2800. My suggestion to you would be to get it only if it's a complete engine, assuming nothing else is wrong with it. Then, you can replace the block and have everything else there you'll need. It might be cheaper then getting a good engine. Good luck with the swap, I'd imagine all the suspension would need to be beefed up and the frame possibly too.
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hey guys, the idea has been done before..
the fabrication isnt a problem, have plenty of time and space to work on such a big project...
i was inquiring to see if there was some way to fix this crack, if you tore down the whole engine... but i guess there isnt.. cause rebuilding wouldnt be ap roblem either..
the fabrication isnt a problem, have plenty of time and space to work on such a big project...
i was inquiring to see if there was some way to fix this crack, if you tore down the whole engine... but i guess there isnt.. cause rebuilding wouldnt be ap roblem either..
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i wouldnt mess with the #53 block. i have one and mine cracked and i tryed welding it and every thing possible and still no good. now i have to replace the block. no fun if you ask me.
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