Before I found a B20 source I was using a qt per fillup. I did notice a smoother sound and idle but no diff in milage.
The other fuel additives will have detergents, pour point depressers, cetane boosters. etc. Good for what they do but not really needed on an every fillup basis. good fuel will be clean, summer temps won't gel diesel in any place I intend on living and dead of winter in VA Beach won't stop my truck from starting so I only need to make my rubbing fuel parts last longer. that means lubrication, two cycle oil is meant to be in fuel to lubricate engines....seemed kind of a natural fit to me.

 

Does it work in gas and diesel engines?

 

I imagine so but a gasser would be more sensitive to having too much oil.

 

the spark plugs will foul.

 

What would ATF do if added to fuel? I fill up my fuel filter with ATf when I change it.We do it at work on all the equipment.

 

With too much or any?

 

Adding ATF to fuel is bad practice left over from the days when ATF was just oil, diesel fuel additives weren't widely availible and diesel engines were much simpler.
Modern ATF is about 30% additives, some designed not to burn, that leave damaging ash deposits in your engine. There are also friction modifiers in modern ATF that are bad with the close tolerances in a modern diesel engine.

Most of the people who recommend ATF as a fuel additive are old timers who really should know better.

 

Here's an old timer that does kno' mo' bettah - the seal softeners in ATF are not compatible with the orings in Diesel Inj Pumps, with resultant softening and swelling and loss of function, in addition to the disadvantages mentioned by Bill.

Used motor oil - Diesel or gasser - is chock full of combustion waste products, mostly abrasive, mostly corrosive, some not filterable - who'd seriously want that stuff pumped thru his\her precision-tolerance Injection Pump, eh?

And that motor oil is formulated specifically not to burn, or ignite easily at turbocharger temperatures - there goes your cetane rating, folks.

To answer an earlier question - the process of removing sulphur from Diesel fuel, to reduce ash and soot, also removes the lubricity components in the fuel.

We do not need the ash - it's abrasive - and sulphur will damage a catalytic convertor in short order, but what about the lubricity components?

The late EFI common-rail IP's do not require the lubricity components, as the hi-friction hi-pressure cam\plunger surfaces are lubricated by hi-pressure engine oil - the fuel on the other end of the plungers is just pressurized for injection.

EFI c\r Diesel is the wave of the now-future - all the big truck engines, lawn mower and tractor engines are being or have already been converted to EFI - check the ECM on the JD Diesel 72" mower.

The Diesel fuel additives had shown no indication of being improved to compensate for reduced lubricity - the newer engines don't need it.

The P7100 IP and similar, with cam, bearings, and plungers lubed by engine oil, doesn't need it - the fuel is just pressurized for injection.

However, Diesel fuel is the primary lubricant in the Stanadyne and a primary lubricant in the Bosch rotary-distributor Inj Pumps, which do require the original pre-sulphur-less lubricity ratios.

Adding two-stroke oil, intended for hi-friction service as well as combustion chamber service, has been an ideal substitute in those type IP's.

If the added oil kicks up the fuel mileage a little, that's good - it burns clean and it's ashless.

If it helps you get there - and back, again - who can complain, eh?

Try it - you'll like it.............

 

I have been running 2 stroke or ATF in diesels and gas pots for the last 20 + years. never have had a problem except in gas pots if to much is added. I have run up to 3 gallons per 25 gallon tank for first 3 to 4 tanks if it's a used engine and am going on a long highway pull. Average 1 to 2 liters per 100 liters of fuel after that. Keeps the pump clean and lubed and same with the nozzels. Noticed over the years that overall engine life lasted by 1/3 longer with minumal ( liner) bore wear, piston, top ring and less valve wear and this related into very little adjustments for valves when premaintance came due. I run up northern B.C and Alberta and have had no extra problems with waxing in extra cold weather. Told friends to use it in chevys due to the poor pumps in them. None of them have had to replace a injection pump since. They all changed pumps before this.
Try it for a few months and keep a accurate record of fuel milage and see if it you get far better milage after using it for a few months. I also go through air care fo emitions and have pased every time with no problem.

 

Several reasons not to run ATF :

1. ATF (any flavor) is red in color. It also turns your fuel red. It would be hard to explain red fuel if you ever get dipped. The sample still has to go to the lab for testing for the chemical tracer that dyed fuel contains, but won't help with the intitial headache of the guys dipping your tank in the first place.

2. ATF also has friction modifiers in it meant for clutch paks in trannies, not in injection pumps with tight tolerances.

3. This kinda falls under "right tool for the right job". There are much better and cheaper additives to put in the tank designed for diesel engines.

And number 4. This is a quote from another forum. The guy that posted this works in the petrochem industry.

 

With too much. I used to run 2 stroke in my gas engines and know of mail men around here that also use it. About 8 oz per 16 gallon tank. Most of these cars see up to 300,000 miles of service before being put to rest.

 

i have been running it and the motor is almost unheard in the cab so its worth it for me especially since its one gallon for 7 bucks at wally world

and i have noticed the increase in fuel milage.

just use it and you will see. ive been using 1/2 to 3/4 a quart per fill up

 

Is Poulan weed eater oil good? I just put 8 oz in my gasser and the fuel guage went to half in a few seconds. Has been sittin well below E for over 6 months. I can't find any other kind at wally world.

 

Just make sure it is not red-tinted, and ashless is better - check the label for blend data

 

It's blue. Doesn't show whats in it though.