Turning up a john deere
#18
Originally Posted by Swoop411
Nothing smells like a john or runs like a deere. I grew up with Case and IH. Then they merged, now its just Case. My neighbors used to have these huge articulated tractors by the name Steiger. These things were crazy looking! Anyone else seen one? My favorite part about them....CUMMINS POWERED! Check it out on the front.
#19
I have some pictures of how to do it on the 2 most popular pumps used. The bad part is, I cant post attachments on here. The good part is, I have one in my gallery and should be the one that's on your pump:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...cat=500&page=1
Then, you can go by these helpful hints:
To the rear of the pump on the top is 2 different allen plugs. The bigger one is the fuel rate, and the smaller is the star wheel, or pre-boost smoke adjustment.To do the fuel you take off the plug with either a 3/8" or 10 mm allen wrench. Now tie up the fuel shutoff sol. or pull cable in the run position and you will see the adjustment screw. You may need to put a brick or such on the accelerator to keep the screw in the right spot under the hole. Break the jamb nut loose with a 3/8" or 10 mm deep socket and loosen the screw all the way. At this point it will be loose in the rack, but not fall in. Take some needle nose pliers and carefully remove the screw. Run the nut so there's 3-5 threads left on the screw(away from the head). Now (again-carefully) put the screw back in and tighten it with a regular slotted screwdriver up to the jamb nut. Then a good snug on the jamb nut and it's done. If you drop the screw inside the pump you can retrieve it easily with a pencil type magnet. Untie the shutdown sol. and remove the accelerator weight tool. Under the smaller allen plug is the star wheel. Take the plug off with either a 5/16" or 8mm allen wrench. Spin the star wheel towards the front of the pump(rotate towards the pass side) to increase low end power(smoke)and away for less low end smoke.
Dale
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...cat=500&page=1
Then, you can go by these helpful hints:
To the rear of the pump on the top is 2 different allen plugs. The bigger one is the fuel rate, and the smaller is the star wheel, or pre-boost smoke adjustment.To do the fuel you take off the plug with either a 3/8" or 10 mm allen wrench. Now tie up the fuel shutoff sol. or pull cable in the run position and you will see the adjustment screw. You may need to put a brick or such on the accelerator to keep the screw in the right spot under the hole. Break the jamb nut loose with a 3/8" or 10 mm deep socket and loosen the screw all the way. At this point it will be loose in the rack, but not fall in. Take some needle nose pliers and carefully remove the screw. Run the nut so there's 3-5 threads left on the screw(away from the head). Now (again-carefully) put the screw back in and tighten it with a regular slotted screwdriver up to the jamb nut. Then a good snug on the jamb nut and it's done. If you drop the screw inside the pump you can retrieve it easily with a pencil type magnet. Untie the shutdown sol. and remove the accelerator weight tool. Under the smaller allen plug is the star wheel. Take the plug off with either a 5/16" or 8mm allen wrench. Spin the star wheel towards the front of the pump(rotate towards the pass side) to increase low end power(smoke)and away for less low end smoke.
Dale
#20
....something else for you RED guys to ponder...i was talking to a guy that works for borg-warner and he was telling me about the turbo sytem they were working on for international...he said the guys in the shop are so fed up with the POS IH junk that they renamed it INTERTRASHNAL!!!!...you RED guys probably drive fords (intertrashnals), so i probably beter be careful what i say...might hurt your feelings
#21
Originally Posted by JD 70
....something else for you RED guys to ponder...i was talking to a guy that works for borg-warner and he was telling me about the turbo sytem they were working on for international...he said the guys in the shop are so fed up with the POS IH junk that they renamed it INTERTRASHNAL!!!!...you RED guys probably drive fords (intertrashnals), so i probably beter be careful what i say...might hurt your feelings
#22
For all of you red fans out there, here is a little something to chew on. I was raised on an all green powered farm in West Central PA, but had many friends who had IH on their farms. I love the Red 66 series tractors, BUUUUUUTTTTT..... In case you all haven't looked around, IH is no more, it like many of the other manufacturers turned in to some other cross/in/multi breed and is no longert who they started out as. BUUUUUUUUTTT If you look at John Deere's legacy, we are still making our own engines, still have the SAME NAME and still build one heck of a piece of equipment for the agriculture industry!!!! so put that in the twin stacks of your 14 or 1568 and smoke that
R/
Eric
R/
Eric
#23
Originally Posted by nevrenufhp
I have some pictures of how to do it on the 2 most popular pumps used. The bad part is, I cant post attachments on here. The good part is, I have one in my gallery and should be the one that's on your pump:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...cat=500&page=1
Then, you can go by these helpful hints:
To the rear of the pump on the top is 2 different allen plugs. The bigger one is the fuel rate, and the smaller is the star wheel, or pre-boost smoke adjustment.To do the fuel you take off the plug with either a 3/8" or 10 mm allen wrench. Now tie up the fuel shutoff sol. or pull cable in the run position and you will see the adjustment screw. You may need to put a brick or such on the accelerator to keep the screw in the right spot under the hole. Break the jamb nut loose with a 3/8" or 10 mm deep socket and loosen the screw all the way. At this point it will be loose in the rack, but not fall in. Take some needle nose pliers and carefully remove the screw. Run the nut so there's 3-5 threads left on the screw(away from the head). Now (again-carefully) put the screw back in and tighten it with a regular slotted screwdriver up to the jamb nut. Then a good snug on the jamb nut and it's done. If you drop the screw inside the pump you can retrieve it easily with a pencil type magnet. Untie the shutdown sol. and remove the accelerator weight tool. Under the smaller allen plug is the star wheel. Take the plug off with either a 5/16" or 8mm allen wrench. Spin the star wheel towards the front of the pump(rotate towards the pass side) to increase low end power(smoke)and away for less low end smoke.
Dale
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...cat=500&page=1
Then, you can go by these helpful hints:
To the rear of the pump on the top is 2 different allen plugs. The bigger one is the fuel rate, and the smaller is the star wheel, or pre-boost smoke adjustment.To do the fuel you take off the plug with either a 3/8" or 10 mm allen wrench. Now tie up the fuel shutoff sol. or pull cable in the run position and you will see the adjustment screw. You may need to put a brick or such on the accelerator to keep the screw in the right spot under the hole. Break the jamb nut loose with a 3/8" or 10 mm deep socket and loosen the screw all the way. At this point it will be loose in the rack, but not fall in. Take some needle nose pliers and carefully remove the screw. Run the nut so there's 3-5 threads left on the screw(away from the head). Now (again-carefully) put the screw back in and tighten it with a regular slotted screwdriver up to the jamb nut. Then a good snug on the jamb nut and it's done. If you drop the screw inside the pump you can retrieve it easily with a pencil type magnet. Untie the shutdown sol. and remove the accelerator weight tool. Under the smaller allen plug is the star wheel. Take the plug off with either a 5/16" or 8mm allen wrench. Spin the star wheel towards the front of the pump(rotate towards the pass side) to increase low end power(smoke)and away for less low end smoke.
Dale
Could you pm me those pics or whatever ya got?
#24
I cant PM any pictures either. I dont know what I did to anger the mods here, but it sure makes it hard to help a guy out.
I wonder if this will help:
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...ead.php?t=6042
It's for IH & Ford, but I think the JD ones are the same, just on the other side of the engine. I also just added a couple pictures down lower in the comments section.
I wonder if this will help:
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...ead.php?t=6042
It's for IH & Ford, but I think the JD ones are the same, just on the other side of the engine. I also just added a couple pictures down lower in the comments section.
#25
''BUUUUUUUUTTT If you look at John Deere's legacy, we are still making our own engines''
Isn't that a (gasp!) Yanmar engine in my 430, and my 650 and my buddies 750? I like em green for the most part...just had to stir the pot one more time
There is that little gem that I found in a field a couple years ago, though...
Isn't that a (gasp!) Yanmar engine in my 430, and my 650 and my buddies 750? I like em green for the most part...just had to stir the pot one more time
There is that little gem that I found in a field a couple years ago, though...
#26
Just a little something for you guys to know almost every red tarctor is powered by the cummins turbo diesel. I am an operator and we have the Case IH Stx 450 powered by a 915ci 15.0 litre cummins 450hp 1700ft lbs of torque. that thing sounds cool as hell too when you have it in a hard pull if they would let me I think I would staright pipe it. But then again red and green are both good tractors nothing beats a yellow one.
#29
Originally Posted by NavyChief
For all of you red fans out there, here is a little something to chew on. I was raised on an all green powered farm in West Central PA, but had many friends who had IH on their farms. I love the Red 66 series tractors, BUUUUUUTTTTT..... In case you all haven't looked around, IH is no more, it like many of the other manufacturers turned in to some other cross/in/multi breed and is no longert who they started out as. BUUUUUUUUTTT If you look at John Deere's legacy, we are still making our own engines, still have the SAME NAME and still build one heck of a piece of equipment for the agriculture industry!!!! so put that in the twin stacks of your 14 or 1568 and smoke that
R/
Eric
R/
Eric
PS , what about those Johnny deeres that are made in the BELARUS factory.
Belarus , now there is a top knotch tractor company who still has their origional name.
What about the smaller CAT tractors , the wheeled ones , those are made by AGCO , and they do not have cat engines in them , so i guess CAT isn't a real company either? (no offence to CAT or ACGO guys)