Yep......they don't make good yard decoration.

 

FYI on OPTIMA BATTS...
Concerning Red Tops, Yellow Tops and Blue Tops... I always "thought" that Red Top's were starting batts, Yellow tops were combo starting/deep cycle(marine) and blue tops were deep cycle only.. WRONG!!!
'Tain't that simple!...
After starting my shopping process for 1 deep cycle & 2 new Red Top Optimas at Sam's Club, I found out that the 3 models they carry didn't make sense .
Ok, the 34/78 Red top was a Grp34 Starting Batt sure enough... (SLI with top and GM-side term's)
Gee! but the 34M Blue top was a Marine SLI batt with bolt terminals but not deep cycle? Huh??
Finally, the D34/78Yellow top Deep Cycle with GM side & std top terminals but without threaded stud terminals???
What's goin' on here? I backed off and inquired.. WRONG! The Sam's battery dummy even knew less about Optima's than I did... Red flags went up in my mind... (need to find more info!)
Getting home, I logged into the 'net and started googling Optima...
http://www.1st-optima-batteries.com/ seemed to have a better list of models manufactured.
I found that with the exception of the Red tops, just about any "color" can be a starting(SLI) batt... They also make some huge Grp 31 yellow&blue top deep cycle batts with a wide combination of terminals available.
It is the MODEL NUMBER that denotes what it is...
If it has a "D" in the model, it is Deep Cycle... blue OR yellow top!
Look at the # of deep cycle's they are spec'ed for... SLI = ~50, DC = ~350!

ALso, I found their (Sam's & the Optima online version) vehicle/battery specifier program did NOT indicate a match for a Dodge 5.9L CTD!
So what size do you guys put in your CTD's?? two std Grp34 RedTops???

I'll have to get the deep cycle batt later...($$$ )

Keith

 

Keith - The interstate battery supply house/retail center (whatever you want to call it) that I just bought batteries from also sold Optimas. When I went inside and saw them, I asked how much they were. The red tops (without knowing, ahem regard to your reply (meaning I ain't very learnable these days)) they said were ~$114 (or so). Once he said, 'one-hundred...' the rest of it trailed off cause I was like, my old batteries did fine, the new ones likely will too.

Anyway, these batteries will likely last the rest of the time I own this truck. Why would I need optimas? The only advantage I see in buying them is that they would make my wallet lighter.

- JyRO

 

In my opinion the reason for buying an optima is for a deep cycle battery which you really aren't looking for. In a car with a nice car stereo having a second battery to run the car stereo the choice for this is a deep cycle optima. For everyday starting of your truck and money spent I think what you bought is perfect. You won't notice anymore performance for the buck spent...
I would also add that another advantage is the ability to put them in any position but again you don't need this.
If you leave your truck sitting for long periods the optima may then slide back up your scale. They do retain a charge better than conventional...

 

I've had good luck with NAPA legends.

 

Hmmm. I thought previously Kieth was trying to clarify that the RED was not a deep cycle. If the Optima Red's are a deep cycle, then I CAN see the alure. Sometimes my truck may sit a couple weeks at a time, and that could be an advantage. But every time I hit the starter, those old batteries sounded brand new ... until like I said, I left the trailer hooked up and unknowingly left the trailers inside lights on ... for like 4 days or so. After that it seems like the batteries tried to live, but gave up after about 6 months.

I can't wait to get home and get the batteries in. It felt sick to have it not start.

The overhead display said, 'CCd.' And the odometer said something else that I don't remember. And I guess I'll wind up with the code that means, 'battery disconnected recently,' or whatever. I'll let you guys know how it goes tonight!

- JyRO

 

i have two optimas, one red and a yellow. i start off the red and use the yellow for my radio and other accessories. i also have it wired so i can start off of both if i need extra cold cranking amps. i like them because they resist vibration, take higher charge rates, and never leak or corrode around the posts.

FYI..
Red: Starting
Yellow: Starting and Deep Cycle
Blue: Marine Starting and Deep Cycle
id check optimas website for specifics.. http://www.optimabatteries.com/

if i lived in a cooler climate id probably use two reds to start then have a yellow for accessories and isolate them. you second and third gen guys could probably put two optimas on each tray.

 

Yellow tops are well worth the money.

Two batteries at $120 = 240.
Two cheaper regular at $80 = $160

80 bucks more for batteries that last longer, do not corrode your terminals, dont leak acid, can be recharged from a complete drain and still work as new, and usually have more capacity.. isnt worth it?

optimas all the way.

 

No. Not for me. I'll put $80 in my pocket and have the same batteries when my truck is 12 years old. I probably will have sold it before then. My old batteries didn't corrode or leak acid. They didn't charge back so well but they were 5.5 years old.
- JyRO

 

Yep....ditto on that.

Optimas dont leak, put out a lot more juice than a conventional battery, can be discharged more often, and last way longer....to most is a no brainer.

Just because something is cheaper doesnt necessarily make it better, JMO

 

Oh, don't get me wrong. I'm not saying a cheaper battery is better. But in this case, cheaper gets the job done just fine. That's all. If I had a couple year old truck and were going to keep it for 6+ years, I'd go for the Optimas too.

- JyRO

 

Fellers -

I put the two new batteries in and it fired right up. Then I took the truck out to the back side of my property and me and my son threw some trash (new house going up across the street and their trash is blowing over) into the bed as the truck trolled along beside us up the yard (idling in 1st gear 4Lo). Anyway...

After getting back in the truck I noticed the engine symbol light lit on the instrument cluster. I put it back in the garage and checked the codes. I got the ole default P1693 (DTC Detected in Companion Module - A fault has been generated in the companion engine control module.)

The thing is, I wasn't expecting this code. More than that, I wasn't expecting the engine MIL to light on the instrument cluster. I had to drive my 4Runner today to get some minor cosmetic damage repaired so I don't know whether it would come back on the next time or not.

Questions? Comments? Suggestions? Concerns? What's the best way to clear the codes and make this dash light go away? Thanks.

- JyRO

 

YIKES! I just looked in an old website I forgot I had saved on my favorites list. It says that P1693 means - Turbo Charge Control Circuit Malfunction.

I doubt there's a real problem since this directly happened as a result of trying to crank with dead batteries (and getting the click-click-click under the hood and the overhead reading CCd). And then the truck sitting there for 24 hours with no batteries.

But I'd like to know what you guys think, and how to reset (hopefully not having to disconnect the batteries again).

 

If it was mine......I'd disconnect the batteries, turn the key on, let it sit for 30 min, turn the key off, re-connect the batteries, and then start it.

If that don't work.......

 

Ain't computers grand