Sick Powerstroke!
#16
Take the cover off the top of the engine and if I remember correct it is in the front of the area covered. Take a look at the link and you should be able to tell which one it is looks just like a selonid.
http://http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotor...spagenameZWDVW
Hope the link works if not I'll try again, the part is about $20 and it'll take maybe 30 to 40 mins tops.
http://http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotor...spagenameZWDVW
Hope the link works if not I'll try again, the part is about $20 and it'll take maybe 30 to 40 mins tops.
#17
Had to replace the g/p relay on my dads 99. Its up on top of the motor. Kinda behind the black plastic piece that has powerstroke wrote on it the best I can remember. There are 2 relays beside each other there. I tried and easy cheaper way out once. It looks just like a starter relay for a 90 model crown vic.($11.31) It will hook up and start but it grounds through the base(the correct one does) the one for a crown vic does not. Drove the truck home from college and cranked it up the next morning to let it warm up. While it was just idling it drained the batteries. So I did have to go buy the more expensive relay from the parts house.($112.??) Hope this helps good luck
#19
link was no good night rider.
but i'll look tomorrow, i was looking with all the other relays.
so this must be it huh guys? is there a way to test the relay first or not? just wonderin.
but i'll look tomorrow, i was looking with all the other relays.
so this must be it huh guys? is there a way to test the relay first or not? just wonderin.
#21
H*LL!!! Never mind just get on ebay and search for "glow plug relay ford" and you will see them like I said they range from 50 to 20 dollars for them the $20 one had three days left on th auction.
#22
Administrator ........ DTR's puttin fires out and workin on big trucks admin
Joined: May 2006
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Napa has them for 25-30 bucks, Ford will get you all of $70.00.
All you really need is a test light, check for trigger wire voltage (all volts are 12v), then check for power to the supply lug of the solenoid, then immediately check for power on the load side of the relay. Chances are if the relay is bad, the side of the relay toward the driverside will not have power but the other side will, and the trigger wire will. Check both ring terminals for hard wires, (they like to cook themselves up).
repost what you find,
Tim
All you really need is a test light, check for trigger wire voltage (all volts are 12v), then check for power to the supply lug of the solenoid, then immediately check for power on the load side of the relay. Chances are if the relay is bad, the side of the relay toward the driverside will not have power but the other side will, and the trigger wire will. Check both ring terminals for hard wires, (they like to cook themselves up).
repost what you find,
Tim
#23
I think I paid $60 at NAPA last year for one, You can test it, I had them go out several times on both of my strokers. with the key off check the wire on the left side if your in front looking at it, should be 12v there, check other terminal to the right should be dead. then have a buddy turn the key on and check voltage on the other terminal, it should read 12v for anywhere between 30-45 seconds then go dead, if it doesnt show anything then the relays bad. that is your glow plugs cycling, they have nothing to do with the wait to start light like most people think. If you need anymore info check out powerstroke.org thats where I spent most of my time before I smartened up and bought a cummins. Good Luck
#24
Just bought a GPR for my in-laws truck at NAPA, it was $92.00. (maybe I got the root on that one????) You gotta make sure you get the right one. The one on the firewall goes to the starter solenoid and will not work on the GP circuit. Does your "wait to start" light come on when you turn the key on? Reason I ask is because I JUST went thru all this with my in-laws PSD. I noticed that his WTS light wouldn't come on. His actually popped the 30A fuse for the powertrain control module. Come to find out, he had 5 bad glowplugs. Changed them, the truck ran for approx. 1 month. THen popped the fuse again. I finally pulled the wiring out of the loom and found that the 12V power for the PCM, the glowplug relay, and the stupid FUEL HEATER are all on the same circuit. I cut the wire for the fuel heater, replaced the fuse AGAIN, and the truck has been fine ever since.
#25
I forgot, I get a big discount at NAPA because I'm in school and get a discount on all kinds of tools I buy there and the guys carry it over on parts for me, sweet deal til' I graduate next year then its gone. I had the same problems with that fuel heater blowing fuses also, I forgot all about that. Also you might check the harness from your CPS, on my 99' the wire loom rubbed on something and it cut into the wires going to the CPS, I replaced the CPS and it still didnt start, had to track it down the wires to find it, could be something like that shorting out every now and then?
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FiverBob
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
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10-14-2003 12:57 AM