Pyrometer question
#1
Pyrometer question
Has anyone had experience with a Glowshift Pyrometer? They have them priced @ 89.99 with probe on ebay. 200-2400 degree range with 7 color illumination. Very tempting price.
#2
Does the gauge come with a pyrometer?
I'm not bein' a smart !!!
The pyrometer is the part that actually threads into the manifold. The 7 color gauge just interprets the electrical signal it is given by the pyro. Also, leads are usually included in the 'package deal'. That would be the wires that connect the pyro to the gauge.
Without seeing the deal on flea-bay, I'd have to say it's probably too good to be true.
Good luck!
I'm not bein' a smart !!!
The pyrometer is the part that actually threads into the manifold. The 7 color gauge just interprets the electrical signal it is given by the pyro. Also, leads are usually included in the 'package deal'. That would be the wires that connect the pyro to the gauge.
Without seeing the deal on flea-bay, I'd have to say it's probably too good to be true.
Good luck!
#5
"My experience is you get what you pay for, cheap most often doesn't cut it."
My thinking is that automotive Gauges, especially pyrometers are way over priced in relation to other similar products.
The probe is very simple, being 2 wires of dissimilar metals in a steel case that varies in a millivolt range when heated or cooled. The movement is baisically a millivolt meter with the dial marked in degrees. Some may have a few bells and whistles but if they use a bi-matellic probe for a sensor they are baisically a milli volt meter, wheather it be analog or digital.
My thinking is if you pay $200-$300 for something like this you are not getting what you pay for.
My thinking is that automotive Gauges, especially pyrometers are way over priced in relation to other similar products.
The probe is very simple, being 2 wires of dissimilar metals in a steel case that varies in a millivolt range when heated or cooled. The movement is baisically a millivolt meter with the dial marked in degrees. Some may have a few bells and whistles but if they use a bi-matellic probe for a sensor they are baisically a milli volt meter, wheather it be analog or digital.
My thinking is if you pay $200-$300 for something like this you are not getting what you pay for.
#7
The probe is very simple, being 2 wires of dissimilar metals in a steel case that varies in a millivolt range when heated or cooled. The movement is baisically a millivolt meter with the dial marked in degrees. Some may have a few bells and whistles but if they use a bi-matellic probe for a sensor they are baisically a milli volt meter, wheather it be analog or digital
From the original post, I had to assume I was addressing a 'Newbie'. Hence the this and that questions.
To answer your original question. No, I've never heard of them nor heard/read of anyone else that has!
Good luck!
PS. My opinion is that 2400* F on a pyro would be extreme overkill on a CTD application. 1600*F is about maximum you ever wanna see!
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#8
"PS. My opinion is that 2400* F on a pyro would be extreme overkill on a CTD application. 1600*F is about maximum you ever wanna see!"
Ya, and I hope I never see that. The max loads I pull are 4 or 5 thousand pounds. I bought the truck because all the gassers I've had lost all their poop in the high altitudes of NM and Arizona not to mention they sucked fuel like crazy.
I know the scale on the Glowshift is a little high but it is still usable in the necessary ranges and its dirt cheap.
Speaking of EGT, I am building a water injector from a wind shield washer resevour and pump with a home made atomizer nozzle. Havent decided whether to inject it pre or post turbo. Need to get some advice on this. Would be simple to start the pump at a pre selected EGT, say 1000-1600 using a K type sensor a a small amount of circuitry.
Ya, and I hope I never see that. The max loads I pull are 4 or 5 thousand pounds. I bought the truck because all the gassers I've had lost all their poop in the high altitudes of NM and Arizona not to mention they sucked fuel like crazy.
I know the scale on the Glowshift is a little high but it is still usable in the necessary ranges and its dirt cheap.
Speaking of EGT, I am building a water injector from a wind shield washer resevour and pump with a home made atomizer nozzle. Havent decided whether to inject it pre or post turbo. Need to get some advice on this. Would be simple to start the pump at a pre selected EGT, say 1000-1600 using a K type sensor a a small amount of circuitry.
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