Okay, now what? Need to learn the basics.
09-26-2006, 11:53 AM
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Okay, now what? Need to learn the basics.
About to buy my first truck (and first diesel) to pull my horses, probably a 97 4X4 with manual transmission. My only prior experience is with the occasional U-Haul rental. What are the most important things I need to know and do when I first get in, start up the engine, and start driving it? (I'm having the truck fully inspected by a well-respected diesel shop before I buy it.) 
Links to old threads or other sites that answer this questions would be great, if that's easier.
Links to old threads or other sites that answer this questions would be great, if that's easier.
09-26-2006, 06:34 PM
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I'm a newbie, hence I have no idea what you mean by "bombing." As to modifications, however, I have talked to the owner of the Powershop in Enumclaw, Wa., and others about modifications. The first thing I'm going to have done is the addition of a fuel pressure gauge, because I intend to run the truck on biodiesel, and I know that will cause me to run through a few filters as the BD clears out the deposits. The second thing will be to add exhaust brakes, since we live on the foothills of Mt. Hood and will be doing most of our driving up and down the mountain to trailheads. I will also consider a moderate enhancement package to boost power and improve efficiency, but I'll probably wait on that to see how the truck does as stock. The trailer and horses combined weight is somewhere between 5-6,000 lbs. We won't be putting a lot of miles on the truck.
Other than that, I am open to suggestions, but my intent was to buy a reliable workhorse, not take on a new hobbie or addiction.
What I'm really looking for is some of the REAL basic stuff, such as the differences between driving a manual transmission car and a manual transmission diesel truck, how often should it be serviced, can I go to the local Oil Can Henry to get an oil change or does this need to be done by a diesel mechanic (hopefully, the time I will spend with this truck will be behind the steering wheel, or behind the tailgate, not under the hood).
Other than that, I am open to suggestions, but my intent was to buy a reliable workhorse, not take on a new hobbie or addiction.
What I'm really looking for is some of the REAL basic stuff, such as the differences between driving a manual transmission car and a manual transmission diesel truck, how often should it be serviced, can I go to the local Oil Can Henry to get an oil change or does this need to be done by a diesel mechanic (hopefully, the time I will spend with this truck will be behind the steering wheel, or behind the tailgate, not under the hood).
09-26-2006, 06:54 PM
#4
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Most places do not stock diesel engine oil , unless they work on them regularly , give that work to a shop that you trust that works on diesels .
I would avoid the quick lubes ,for anything becouse your regular service like an oil change is a good time to let a trained eye look at your truck to catch things that may be going in wrong .
I would avoid the quick lubes ,for anything becouse your regular service like an oil change is a good time to let a trained eye look at your truck to catch things that may be going in wrong .
09-26-2006, 06:54 PM
#5
Chapter President
Welcome to the wonderful world of Diesel!
First thing there are no other sites.
Just go read the forums and you will learn everything that you want about your new to you truck.
Check into your local DTR Chapter and see if anyone is near you and might help.
Don't let the local Luby Jif touch your truck. Remember the guys workin there graduated from changin the oil at Micky D's .
Change the oil yourself it's easy and you will get to know your truck better.
There are some of the best and smartest 12V guys on this site and they are always there to help.
And best of all it's all FREE
First thing there are no other sites.
Just go read the forums and you will learn everything that you want about your new to you truck.
Check into your local DTR Chapter and see if anyone is near you and might help.
Don't let the local Luby Jif touch your truck. Remember the guys workin there graduated from changin the oil at Micky D's .
Change the oil yourself it's easy and you will get to know your truck better.
There are some of the best and smartest 12V guys on this site and they are always there to help.
And best of all it's all FREE
09-26-2006, 07:00 PM
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no work under the hood?? thats no fun!! 
gauges are always helpful...with a manual you would probably be looking at a boost gauge and an exhaust gas temp gauge i wouldnt think that a tranny temp gauge would be as important as if you had an automatic...so maybe a three gauge pod with fuel pressure, boost, and egt. An exhaust would help get some air moving along with maybe an intake. These are fairly inexpensive mods that will allow the engine to breathe a little.
Once you decide if you want more power, there are a few ways of turning up the 12valve (98.5 and older model years) if you were to find a 98.5 and newer 24 valve there are many choices for electronic boxes to add hp/tq hope this helps
gauges are always helpful...with a manual you would probably be looking at a boost gauge and an exhaust gas temp gauge i wouldnt think that a tranny temp gauge would be as important as if you had an automatic...so maybe a three gauge pod with fuel pressure, boost, and egt. An exhaust would help get some air moving along with maybe an intake. These are fairly inexpensive mods that will allow the engine to breathe a little.
Once you decide if you want more power, there are a few ways of turning up the 12valve (98.5 and older model years) if you were to find a 98.5 and newer 24 valve there are many choices for electronic boxes to add hp/tq hope this helps
09-26-2006, 07:09 PM
#7
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Ahh ha ha ha ha ha ha!!!! AHHHH HA HA HA HA HA!!
Ok, sorry, but I can only read that coming from a first time owner so many times before I crack up...seriously, you're going to love owning a 12v Cummins. Sounds like you've got somebody you trust checking it out for you, so that's good. Poke around in the 12 valve engine and drivetrain section for a while and you'll begin to get a feel for what to look/watch for. In stock form, the truck you're looking at won't likely even feel 5-6k in tow. My old hoss is knocking on half a million miles and couldn't be happier with 7k in tow
Whatever you do, don't pull the silencer ring from the turbo---that's step one towards the slippery slope of BOMBing...which is an acronym:Better
Off
Modified
Baby
Welcome to DTR!
Greg
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09-26-2006, 08:18 PM
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1) read ur owner's manual for starting procedures
2) remember it takes diesel fuel and refer to it as "fuel" not "gas"
3) remember its CUMMINS...no G...if u haven't learned that yet
4) FORD does NOT own Cummins
5) chicks love diesels regardless of what they say
6) my truck smells good regardless of what people say
7) my engine sounds normal...its a diesel...and NO its not a bad lifter
unless i forgot somehting ur good to go
ps a year from now u will be debating what injectors, gauges, delivery valves, plate, torque converter to get....you'll see
2) remember it takes diesel fuel and refer to it as "fuel" not "gas"
3) remember its CUMMINS...no G...if u haven't learned that yet
4) FORD does NOT own Cummins
5) chicks love diesels regardless of what they say
6) my truck smells good regardless of what people say
7) my engine sounds normal...its a diesel...and NO its not a bad lifter
unless i forgot somehting ur good to go
ps a year from now u will be debating what injectors, gauges, delivery valves, plate, torque converter to get....you'll see
09-27-2006, 02:01 PM
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A year?! You're joking, right? I posted a new thread asking for info. about recommendations for a fuel pressure gauge 30 minutes ago, and I haven't even wired the money to the seller yet!
09-27-2006, 02:16 PM
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What does the boost gauge measure and what would the info from the boost and egt gauges tell me?
Is there a mfr. and model number of a kit that has these three gauges together that I can tell my mechanic about?
Can any qualified diesel mechanic that mainly does repairs install these, or should I take it to a shop that specializes in modifications? (I'll probably have exhaust brakes installed in the not-too-distant future - should I wait and have the gauges installed then?)
Is there a mfr. and model number of a kit that has these three gauges together that I can tell my mechanic about?
Can any qualified diesel mechanic that mainly does repairs install these, or should I take it to a shop that specializes in modifications? (I'll probably have exhaust brakes installed in the not-too-distant future - should I wait and have the gauges installed then?)
09-27-2006, 03:03 PM
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the gauges are important i would get them as soon as you can. i would think that a mechanic would be able to install them, i'm sure a lot of guys do gauges themselves. it is a pretty straight forward install. autometer and the like have websites and packages also search for geno's garage i think he has most things you would need. also maybe look at the dtr shop.
09-27-2006, 03:18 PM
#12
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What does the boost gauge measure and what would the info from the boost and egt gauges tell me?
Once the turbo begins to build boost, the intake manifold and cylinders are under pressure. The boost gauge measures this pressure. It is this pressureized air that makes a turbo diesel so powerful yet efficient, since the engine is able to 'ingest' more air that it would under normal, or natural circumstances. Hence the terms naturally aspirated VS turbocharged/forced induction. Gauges are helpful, even on a stock truck, because they give you a reference so that, for instance, if you develop a boost leak in the future, you'll know because the value on the gauge will be lower under otherwise similar circumstances and you then may be able to nip a small problem before it becomes a big one. The pyrometer measure the exhaust gas temperature as it leaves the engine. This one is simple: Too hot and your pistons melt
Is there a mfr. and model number of a kit that has these three gauges together that I can tell my mechanic about?
there's lots of stuff available for your style truck. those of us with early trucks are pretty well left hung out to dry, but I'm sure the 2nd gen fellas will point you in the right direction
Can any qualified diesel mechanic that mainly does repairs install these, or should I take it to a shop that specializes in modifications?
any wrench worth his/her weight in meatballs can install gauges
(I'll probably have exhaust brakes installed in the not-too-distant future - should I wait and have the gauges installed then?)
the sooner the better, in order to establish a baseline. That's just my opinion
Once the turbo begins to build boost, the intake manifold and cylinders are under pressure. The boost gauge measures this pressure. It is this pressureized air that makes a turbo diesel so powerful yet efficient, since the engine is able to 'ingest' more air that it would under normal, or natural circumstances. Hence the terms naturally aspirated VS turbocharged/forced induction. Gauges are helpful, even on a stock truck, because they give you a reference so that, for instance, if you develop a boost leak in the future, you'll know because the value on the gauge will be lower under otherwise similar circumstances and you then may be able to nip a small problem before it becomes a big one. The pyrometer measure the exhaust gas temperature as it leaves the engine. This one is simple: Too hot and your pistons melt
Is there a mfr. and model number of a kit that has these three gauges together that I can tell my mechanic about?
there's lots of stuff available for your style truck. those of us with early trucks are pretty well left hung out to dry, but I'm sure the 2nd gen fellas will point you in the right direction
Can any qualified diesel mechanic that mainly does repairs install these, or should I take it to a shop that specializes in modifications?
any wrench worth his/her weight in meatballs can install gauges
(I'll probably have exhaust brakes installed in the not-too-distant future - should I wait and have the gauges installed then?)
the sooner the better, in order to establish a baseline. That's just my opinion
09-27-2006, 03:46 PM
#13
DTR's Locomotive Superhero and the DTR Sweet Tea Specialist
I didn't see this mentioned yet, but if you buy a 12 valve, you should make sure the KDP (Killer Dowel Pin) is tabbed so it doesn't work loose and make something bad happen. It's located in the timing case at the front of the engine, I know they have a tendency to work out of their hole and fall into the gears. I'm not a 12 valver, i know more about the 24 valves so i'll let someone else thats knows more explain it.
09-28-2006, 04:36 AM
#14
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