Ok guys I need some help.. After 50,000 miles on the old BFG's I need help finding a better pair of shoes.. I'm looking to stay in the stock size (265/70/17) with a good load range for pulling the fver and heavier stuff for work. This is my second set of BFG's and I've not had much luck with them in regards to longevity. Any suggestions for a good tire for the cheapest price?

 

http://www.hankooktireusa.com/produc...il.asp?pid=290

Four Wheel Magazine just did a test of these versus the Toyo Open Country A/T's, and BFG A/T's.

They come with a better warranty than the Toyo's, and are almost the same tire according to them.

Minor detail, but didn't our trucks come with 265/70/R17's?

 

You could look at the Dura Grappler if you don't mind a more highway oriented tire with decent grip in mud and snow and excellent wet traction, other than that I would recommend the Toyo Open country AT for longevity.

 

I just purchase Bridgestone Duravis M700 M+S tires for the Dually. So far I am liking them. Just aggressive enough that they should bite in softer roadbeds, but apparently tough enough that they hardly bulge with the camper in the truck, and, i'll have to get a few more miles to really tell, it appears I've picked up 1-2mpg with them. And it kinda makes sense: They don't flatten out against the road like the factory generals did. i.e. less rolling resistance.

Tony

 

I bought mine at Treadepot. I was pricing out tires everywhere and this was the cheapest I could find. I bought 235-85-16 goodyear silent armors. I don't have that many miles on them but the traction seems great in the rain and they are quiet.

 

Thanks gents!!

 

These Silent Armor's seem to be pretty good---i have around 25000 on mine and still look new. Truck is rarely used if not towing pretty heavy

 

Not sure exactly how aggressive of a tire you're looking for, but all of our service vehicles at work have F'Stone Transforce HT's. Load range E, we have 2 vans that weigh an easy 10k lbs between compressor, welder, brass fittings, parts, tires, air tools, and other junk. We get a real good life out of the HT's. They're middle of the road pricewise, too.

 

I second that - free shipping too.

 

Free89W350, your observations of the attributes of Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armor tires is accurate. I put 15 inch Silent Armor P range tires on our 1998 gasoline powered half ton GMC pickup and they run well, are quiet, giving lots of traction and give good wear. I will put LT265/70/R17 load range E Silent Armors on plain steel rims for winter if I need more traction with my Dodge CTD.

Up to now, for summer and winter highway driving I presently run Michelin LTX A/S tubless M&S LT265/70/R17 E range tires. They seem like very good tires.

This past spring for about 50 miles out of the 200 mile trip northward I was pulling a tandem tag trailer weighing, in total 8K pounds, plus pushing the truck weight of about 7.5k pounds against an exceptionally steady strong blizzard head wind of about 60 to 75 mph. The unsanded black ice formed on the asphalt was so slippery that all the traffic was only moving at around 40 mph. In 2WD my CTD truck's rear wheels would skid out sideways on the least slight incline whenever the tire to road friction was exceeded, caused by the increase in effective weight resitance. I soon put the transfer case into 4WD and had no problem keeping the entire unit steady and straight at a 40 to 50 mph rate of speed. When the highway finally cleared up, I switched back to 2WD and drove at 60 mph. I do not know if Silent Armor tires would have provided more traction on glare ice - probably not. I know Silent Armor tires give much more traction in snow.

 

After recieving the tires via shipping how bad was the cost on installation? Most of the tire stores around here want you to purchase their tires.

 

The Bridgestone Dueller Revo's are a good tire also the Goodyear wrangler silent armor see to be pretty good .Tirerack seems about the best spot to get them and usually I pay around 25-30 for mounting and balancing,I would think any decent garage would mount the tires for you .
Joe

 

$30.00 aint bad.. I figured they try to rake me over the coals for balancing and mounting

 

I usually pay about $100 for a road force balance and mount. If you look on ebay and get you tires from Discount Tire on ebay you can have them send them to the closest DT to be mounted etc.

 

I bought the balancing beads from a local motorcycle shop that orders the balancing product from http://www.innovativebalancing.com and they work well, except on a tire that has a large amount of lateral imbalance. If the heavy wheel weight is a marked difference compared to the lighter wheel weight on the other side of the rim then you know that particular tire has lateral imbalance and the heavy wheel weight must remain on the rim for that heavy side of the tire even with balancing beads in the tire. If the heavy wheel weight is on the inside of the wheel rim just leave it there and remove the much lighter wheel weight on the outside of the rim when beads are in the tire. If the heavy wheel weight is on the outside of the rim then that wheel weight has to still stay on the rim wherever the heavy side of the tire exists. If the high lateral imbalanced tire's pronounced weight is on the outside and you do not want a lead wheel weight showing on the outside of the rim, then you have to mark the wheel weight center location on the tire's outside wall before turning the tire around on the rim and then switching the heavy wheel weight onto the inside of the rim at the mark on the tire sidewall. When turning the tire the location of valve stem possibly should be marked on the tire sidewall also to align the marked valve stem locaton in the tire's reverse position on the rim. That way the lead wheel weight just has to be relocated onto the inside of the rim at the sidewall mark and the lead will now not electrolytically corroding the chrome wheel rim on the previous outside wheel weight location. On tires that have a questional amount of wheel weight difference, I also mark the tire sidewalls and also on the rim location for both the inside and outside wheel weight centers. That way if there is a slight vibration I can reinstall the wheel weights to see if the vibration is from the slight lateral imbalance. In case there is vibration the tire has to be turned on the rim. I had to keep record of the amount of wheel weight for each tire inside and outside to know where to replace wheel weights if needed. I use a white grease marker to mark the sidewalls and rim locations.

First, before I install beads, I move the wheels with nil lateral imbalanced as indicated by the wheel weight amounts to the front steering axles. I even put the spare tire on a front chrome rim as it was almost perfectly balanced even with no wheel weights. The tire with the most lateral imbalance goes onto the spare steel rim. I also do the front tires first, starting with one tire at a time that has nil lateral imbalance and if their is no vibration I do another tire. That way I know exactly which tire causes the vibration if a problem arises. The nice thing about balancing beads is that the tire never has to be balance again during its tread life.