We have been servicing a local companies trucks as far as oil changes, air filters etc. They towed in a 1999 Freightliner and the driver heared a pop sound and a lack of power. My tech. said that the turbo is siezed (won't spin).

The question is. How much would I be getting into on replacement of the turbo and possibly replacement of the intercooler for debris?

I have the time and the room for the job, but I don't want a snowball job that gets to the point that I have to tow it out to someone more capable. If this is simply change the turbo and intercooler then great. If it is a job that is know to fragment worse than I am thinking then I will send it down the road.

Thanks guys & gals

 

There is some risk that small particles made their way into the engine on the intake side. Its all investigation by taking it apart. Who knows, the IC may be OK and the turbo is the only casualty. Would be easier changing it on a tilt hood than in a pickup!

 

replace the turbo and pull the intercooler out and check it for debris. The intercooler should catch most of it and it can be cleaned out

 

As long as the turbo didn't explode I would just have the IC cleaned and checked out. Is the tech sure a turbo tube isn't popped? I had a Detriot come in with that this week. Screwed around for quite a while before I realized it was leaking out the blue boot on the hot side of the cooler.
DS79

 

If you are going to take on the job, make sure that you replace the air filter(s), and clean out the ducting from the air filters to the turbo. Lots of times pieces go the other way to. Then start it up, pieces get sucked into the new turbo. A clown we had @ work didnt clean the intake, new turbo didnt last to long.

 

Thanks for the replys. I think we are going to do the job.

 

Before you pull anything on that motor make sure you advise the customer that there is a potential for internal engine damage caused by the debris from the grenaded turbo. As others have stated pull the intercooler out of the truck and clean it out. I use Zep TNT to remove any oil then run lots of water through it. While it is out of the truck and after it has been cleaned, lay it flat on the ground with the intake and discharge side up, then fill it with water and let it sit while you swap out the turbo. Check it to see if the water level has dropped, if it has dropped then look for the leak prior to reinstalling it.

Checking the intake is good advise, a new air filter is a must with a new turbo as stated. While the turbo is out it would behoove you to install a new braided supply line, and remove the return tube, clean it, and install a new o-ring seal.



Good luck,


Tim

 

I agree with deer slayer..check the "air to air" hose or "turbo tube" as he calls it. They can blow out causing a "pop" and sudden loss of power along with tons of black smoke.

 

If you do decide to do the job, we expect to see plenty of pics.

 

On a new engine they won't smoke even when WOT and no boost. At least not a 2005 Detriot 60 Series! Believe me I tried, 7th gear, and floored from idle it would not smoke, but it wouldn't build any boost either.
DS79

 

I'm going to side with Tim here... he knows his stuff when it comes to this subject. Here is where I would go...

Pull the turbo. Are all the pieces there? If yes, then there is a good chance that there are is any debris in the engine. Don't assume, tho.

If no, then you could have a problem. What pieces are missing? Where did they go? The easiest thing is if they went out the exhaust, and I assume from this type of truck, that it is not bombed, meaning that that the muffler is still there, it's not straight piped, and anything that came out the back is still there somewhere. Pull the exhaust and look for the pieces...

Regardless, the safest thing to do is pull the IC and look for debris. If there is any present, or any signs of damage, then you are going to have to pull the head to be safe and inspect the intake, valves, pistons and cylinders. Depending on if anything made it into the intake and cylinders, you may be going into the bottom end of the motor, if it's that bad.

Best case, I would say that the turbo is just siezed due to a failed part(s) /lack of oil flow, and that's all that happened. Make sure that nothing is missing from the turbo and there is not FOD in the IC, and then determine why the turbo failed to keep the new one from biting it. (if it was a lack of oil or external debris)

Worse case, the turbo took a dirt nap, and the pistons are destroyed, along with the rest of the top half.


That being said, I'm not a heavy truck mech, remember advice is free, and that's how much I was paid for mine... (disclaimer! )

mad

 

I have never seen a turbo take out the top half of a motor. The IC acts as one big filter for that kind of stuff. A chunk of turbo should never make it that far, not saying it can't but it shouldn't. Perssonally if there is a lot of small pieces in the IC I would just relpace it then take the chance some of the old turbo doesen't get cleaned out and finds it way to the intake at some point. As for the exhaust just pull the turbo and fire it up, it should blow most of the stuff out the exhaust and you won't have to take it apart.
DS79

 

Well my tech. got it apart and the turbo is smoked. I will be putting pictures up. My local radiator shop is familiar with intercooler flushing and they picked it up and gave it the once over. We got a rebuilt turbo kit from a local rebuilder and are going back together with it now. So far it seems like a good job for us.

Thanks again for all the replies and help. I may not have 1000 posts, but I can tell you that I am on this site many times each and everyday. No matter what my question is, I can always count on help from all of you.

 

Post count don't mean nothin...

Glad to be here...

 

I'm licenced HD tech for the Detroit dealer here. I do Series 60 and MBE 4000 turbos all the time in class 8 trucks. not daily but weekly for sure.

DS79 summed it up pretty good. you have to replace the airfilters, and separate every intake pipe and boot and clean internally. when a turbo explodes under fullload it back feeds aluminum up the intake and will imbed in the airfilter and at all the joints. a new turbo will fail fast if thats not taken care of at that time. no need to touch the top end for sure. all the techs clean their own CACs. test it before you bother with any cleaning though. can't lose more than 5psi over 15 seconds from 30psi.

*cut and paste from the service manual.*
Attach an air pressure line, with filtered air, to the air shutoff valve and gradually pressurize the charge air cooler to a pressure of 205 kPa (30 psi). If necessary, perform the following steps to adjust the air regulator until the gauge reads 205 kPa (30 psi):
Pull regulator **** outward to unlock.
Turn **** to adjust pressure to 205 kPa (30 psi).
Push the regulator **** back into locked position.
Close the air shutoff valve and monitor the gauge with a stop watch for 15 seconds. Note any decrease in air pressure.
Repeat test at least three times to verify results.
If the pressure drop is 34 kPa (5 psi) or less in 15 seconds the cooler is good.
If the pressure drop is greater than 34 kPa (5 psi) in 15 seconds, replace the charge air cooler. Refer to "6.8.1 Repair or Replacement of Charge Air Cooler" .




I got a couple good ones though.........each of these did not require the vlave cover to come off. the 2nd did have to drop the pan and pull shrapnel out of the drain tube and from the bottom of the pan. clean parts, new oil, filters button up. send down the road with warrantee.

Mercedes 4000 split the compressor wheel in half.



Series 60 Pre-EGR gutted the center section, candy striped the whole downtube.