Ladder/traction bars... want to build some, need help.
#1
Administrator/Jarhead
Thread Starter
Ladder/traction bars... want to build some, need help.
Evenin, DTR.
I'm too cheap to buy a set, so I'm out to build some. I think I have the basic design down, I'm going to go with some single bar type, but I need to know where I need to hook them to the frame on the front. I see that most put them even with the drive shaft... do they need to stop at the tranny?
I would appreciate some pics... that would be very helpful.
Thanks!!!
mad
I'm too cheap to buy a set, so I'm out to build some. I think I have the basic design down, I'm going to go with some single bar type, but I need to know where I need to hook them to the frame on the front. I see that most put them even with the drive shaft... do they need to stop at the tranny?
I would appreciate some pics... that would be very helpful.
Thanks!!!
mad
#3
Administrator/Jarhead
Thread Starter
But, I do. He lives in the same house I do. It may not be the prettiest thing in the world, but it sticks well, and I have a grinder...
#4
Registered User
Mark I don't think it really matters that much where they go. Mine are mounted (welded) to the frame near the break between the bed and cab. Mine is a long bed though............so you may want to go up a little beyond that and go under the cab a little since you have a short bed. Rears are mounted under the shock mounts on the axle. Mine are Lazarsmith bars. IMO, they make a big difference in planting the axle, avoiding spring wrap, and even help with handling. Hope these can help.
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#5
DTR's Locomotive Superhero and the DTR Sweet Tea Specialist
Mark, I've seen a few trucks with bars done like what TexasCTD posted, they look good and I am told they work well from those that run them. Plan on makin a set for my truck one day, the end links can be had from Tractor Supply. And I think the bar is schedule 80 or 120 pipe? Not to sure though.
#6
Administrator/Jarhead
Thread Starter
Mark I don't think it really matters that much where they go. Mine are mounted (welded) to the frame near the break between the bed and cab. Mine is a long bed though............so you may want to go up a little beyond that and go under the cab a little since you have a short bed. Rears are mounted under the shock mounts on the axle. Mine are Lazarsmith bars. IMO, they make a big difference in planting the axle, avoiding spring wrap, and even help with handling. Hope these can help.
I know that if I go with shorter bars, there is a chance I'll bend the frame...
Are those the monster bars?
Mark, I've seen a few trucks with bars done like what TexasCTD posted, they look good and I am told they work well from those that run them. Plan on makin a set for my truck one day, the end links can be had from Tractor Supply. And I think the bar is schedule 80 or 120 pipe? Not to sure though.
#7
2" DOM is what I'm using with Ballistic Fabrication links and brackets.
Many ideas here-
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...ead.php?t=1004
Many ideas here-
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...ead.php?t=1004
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#10
Registered User
Thanks for the pics... That's a good looking truck, too.
I know that if I go with shorter bars, there is a chance I'll bend the frame...
Are those the monster bars?
Yeah, I see a lot of people running that style of bar, I like them a lot more than the other ones. I might go with a little bigger pipe, tho...
I know that if I go with shorter bars, there is a chance I'll bend the frame...
Are those the monster bars?
Yeah, I see a lot of people running that style of bar, I like them a lot more than the other ones. I might go with a little bigger pipe, tho...
Thanks Mark! Actually, I need to update with some new pics. I have 2nd gen (1998) sport emblems on the side and Nitto Terra grappler 285/75/17s now.
Mine are the "Lazar IIs", I believe. It's been a while. Mike builds some nice stuff and he lives pretty close to me, so I have seen lots of his work in person. http://www.lazarsmith.com/tractionbars.html They are not the least expensive. But in some cases, "Cheap" is not a bargain. Building them yourself is another matter though....if you have the time, tools, knowhow, and material to do it.
Yes, loosen the lock.........turn the bars to tighten......then lock the bar. Mike sends a "tool" to loosen the lock along with the bars for that purpose.
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#11
Registered User
Robert those are great pics!!!! I wanna make a set also and this really helps pinpoint some things I was questioning. I wanna build me a set also, but I want to do a little custom touch to make them look distinct, probably some sort of ladder bars.
#12
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Join Date: Oct 2006
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I just think that single mount setup puts more stress on your ubolts when the pinion tries to wrap up/ it appears to control only 1/2 the wrap force of the diff. why woldn't you connect if to the top of the diff as well like a radius arm link or ladderbar?
#14
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What you're talking about is a traction bar, not a ladder bar. Ladder bars require a switch to coil over shocks. The goal of a traction bar is to prevent axle wrap (which causes wheel hop), and help plant the rear tires.
Proper design is important for the suspension operate like it's supposed to. First, you have to decide exactly what you want the suspension to do. A bar for drag strip and street traction is much differant than an off road set up. They're not interchangable.
Adjustability is only needed for use on a variety of trucks and applications. There's no need to make a bar adjustable if you're building the truck specifically for you and your truck. Non-adjustable bars are stronger, cheaper, and easier to build.
Proper design is important for the suspension operate like it's supposed to. First, you have to decide exactly what you want the suspension to do. A bar for drag strip and street traction is much differant than an off road set up. They're not interchangable.
Adjustability is only needed for use on a variety of trucks and applications. There's no need to make a bar adjustable if you're building the truck specifically for you and your truck. Non-adjustable bars are stronger, cheaper, and easier to build.