NHDiesel

O.K., I've b een around diesels most of my life...but this is the first I've owned. And definately the first I've had to deal with in the weather conditions I live in now. It will be -10 to -30 and even colder at night here throughout most of the winter. I have heard several things, now i want info from those who have done it.

My father has owned several diesels, and if he's planning to be up early, he just leaves them running all night. Others seem to use the block heater without a problem. I know from running kine the last couple weeks in cold weather, without plugging it in, that it REALLY sucks up fuel when it starts in the cold weather! It started today without a problem at around 5 degrees, but it smoked like crazy, and between the 30 minute warmup and the 30 minute drive, it sucked down at least 1/8 tank of fuel! On the other hand, I only had to work aprox. 4 hours last night and the same tonight, and I just left it running, and it didn't seem to use anything while running that long.

So...leave it running if I know I'll be using it within 8 hours or so, or plug it in?

Jim

Dr. Evil

Leave it running for 4 hours (or all night) in the cold???

Thats about the worst thing you can do to a diesel. I do hope you have a high idle??

Even in the coldest temps, 10 minutes of warmup is all thats necessary - just take it easy and keep it under 1900-200 rpm until the engine is up to normal operating temperature.

getblown5.9

with these real colds temps and the cummins in our trucks they are not meant to run all night like that. it doesnt burn the fuel completely and you end up with build up on the valves and can then bend a pushrod or valve. not a good idea to leave them running at idle.

NHDiesel

When i leave it running the temp stays right at aprox. 140 degrees. I would think that would be better for it than a startup in -20. I know when i start it when its around 10 degrees, and let it run for 20 minutes, it doesn't even move the gauge yet. 10 minutes and its not even drivable...it just sputters for a few minutes until it warms enough to smooth out.

I also work nights, and come out of work at 11:30 pm. I want to make sure my truck is going to start and get me home, instead of being stranded there. If I can't get into work from home, thats one thing...but being stuck in a parking lot all by myself at midnight isn't something I look forward to.

I'm not trying to disagree...just trying to figure out why its better to start a cold engine than to leave it running. I know on the really cold nights, all the school bus companies leave theirs running all night, and so do many of the trucking companies up here. Whats different about our engines?

Jim

NHDiesel

Oh, and I am going to be hooking up an electric solenoid from a carburetor to work off a toggle switch to bump the idle up. I want to also hook it up through a relay to the remote starter I hope to get for Christmas from my wife, so that when it starts, the idle automatically goes up (just like pushing on the accelerator when starting it), then i can shut it off when i get in the truck.

Oh, and one more thing...with this piece of crap auto, the thing won't even move unless it warms up for 15-20 minutes. Run it for 10 minutes or less and all it does it sit there like its in neutral. Typical of Dodge transmissions in this weather though...when i was at the dealer we got lots of calls about it during the winter. Man I can't wait to get my 5-speed!

Jim

greasemonki

Diesels do not like to warm up at idle. If you start the truck in the morning and just leave it idling, it will take FOREVER to get any real temperature up. I am in a similiar climate, -10 or colder in the morning and maybe in the 20's in the afternoon. Ideally I plug the truck in I also have an oil heater pad on the bottom of the pan (someday I'll get a nice heated garage ). But when I cannot, I cycle the grid heaters usually 3 times before starting the truck. Then I let the oil pressure come up at idle. After about 30 seconds to a minute of oil pressure, I bring the idle up usually around 1000 rpms at first and let it sit for a minute, then I bring the idle up to about 1200-1300 and let it run there for about 3-5 minutes. After that, I bring the idle down, and put the transmission in gear (I have an automatic) and let it sit in drive for about a minute or 2 to get SOME temperature to the transmission. Then I take off slowly, keeping the rpms down under 1500 until the temp gets up. I also have added a cold front to the truck (homemade from lexan) which definitely helps it warm up in this cold. If you make one, be sure to leave an airway in the center of the grill for the cooling fan clutch and a spot on the drivers side open for the transmission cooler (for automatics). The winter blend of diesel is also not as "fuel efficient" friendly as the summer blends. This is due to the additives "they" put in to keep it from gelling and what not. Hope this helps....

sCreamin400

Minus 18 yesterday, -15 the day before. Truck started right up with no heater. Didn't skip like I thought it would. I now have the cord hooked up as that is mighty cold.

Shovelhead

If you're going to let it idle more than ~10 minutes in REAL cold weather, do yourself and your truck a favor and invest in a High Idle Controler.
Either the electronic, or the Super-Duper High-Tech version will get the RPM up high enough (~1200-1300 rpm) to keep the fuel from varnishing to the valve stems and the combustion chambers.

doorguy

Try letting your truck warm up in nuetral (put your parking brake on). I read somewhere if it is in park it does not circulate the oil but in nuetral it will and warm up the trans.

DieselDaze

Yes, Ive read the same thing.
In temps below 20, I will cycle the grids two or three times, start her up, put her in nuetral and let the engine idle for half minute... or so. Just enough time that the oil pressure has time to build and circulate.
Then I use a pre-cut PVC pipe and wedge it between the seat frame and the accelerator to bring the rpms up to ~1000.
After a minute of that, I bring the rpms up to ~1200 and let her sit and run at that rpm for another 2 to 3 minutes.
Even then, I will not allow the rpms to run up over 1900 until the temps engine temps get over 140.

I would not suggest idleing the engine hours at a time.

Rich.

chaikwa

I have a customer here that runs a rather large tree service. He clears power lines for the local electric co-op, and his crews always leave all the trucks running all winter long. Nights, weekends and holidays, they're always running. And at an idle. Come every spring, he can count on doing at least 5 or 6 in-frame overhauls.

My 93 has seen more than it's share of 'idle' time. When I was a full time firefighter, I would routinely get called out at night, even on my off-time. My truck was always plugged in at home so when I got in it to go to a call, I could just GO. Once I got to the scene, I'd HAVE to leave it running, not just to keep it warm, but to keep the battery charged. I had a strobe bar and tail light strobes, and usually had to leave those on for the duration of the call. I rigged up a locking throttle cable control and would set it at 1200 to 1500 RPM's. It wasn't uncommon that it would sit running like this for 5 to 8 hours at a time. I know it still wasn't good for it, but I had little choice at the time. Right now, the truck has almost 10,000 hours on it, and it still runs fine, (knock on wood!). I wish I didn't have all this idle time on it, but it will be interesting to see just how many hours I get on the 'ol girl before it needs attention.

chaikwa.

jrs_dodge_diesel

Absolutley correct. This is a condition known as wet stacking. Caused by prolonged and unnecesary idling. Only way to prevent this is to use a high idler (simple as a stick on the pedal or a fancy controller), exhaust brake which will load the engine some, or don't idle the engine if you don't have too.




Even if the temp guage stays at 140° (which the guage only reads coolant temp ), it does not mean that your combustion temps are high enough to prevent wet stacking. If you insist on idling the engine, use a high idler and get the RPMs up to 1100-1500, or use an exhaust brake, or both. This brings your EGTs (Exhaust Gas Temp) up and will prevent wet stacking. You can wrap blankets around the engine, build a fire under the engine, use as many heaters as you want buts they will not prevent wet stacking. The only way to prevent it is to keep FIRE on top the pistons, and keep the EGTs up.

I would reccomend you not idle and use your block heater as often as possible. They even make diesel burning coolant heaters that will keep a warm engine without an extension cord. Espar is the brand of those heaters.

VADSLRAM

My tranny did the same thing on winter mornings. Felt like neutral no matter whet gear it was in. Now that I switched out to synth fluid and changed filter I get no difference between summer and winter. I was up in NH for work and came out in the AM to 5 degree, no plug in (**** hotels) It smoked alot on start but about 30 sec after start I put it in R and backed out then into D and idled out of the parking lot. It was 5:30 AM, I hope I didn't upset people but why should I care I had already checked out I probably should have let it warm up a bit but I figured the rooms right in front of where I parked would have been a little upset.

Copenhagenjunkie

I would at least get some type of winter front (fancy snap on or cardboard w fan size hole cut out). This will help alot, my biggest problem is getting enough heat quick to defrost the window so I can see to drive. It's fun looking thru a fist sized hole to drive. I have on occasion put a heavy thick moving blanket over the hood to help keep some heat from escaping when I plug in overnight. I did this a week ago when it was -30 for several nights. I would rather pay more for the electric bill than fuel to let it idle. I keep mine plugged in for weeks at a time and always have.

getblown5.9

those big engines are made for it and have high idle features, on the smaller 5.9 cummins, at such a low idle and the cold temps, liek someone said the fuel varnishes or builds up on the valves then causes problems and will then cause more serious issues like bent valves or push rods.

there was a thread on one of these dodge forums yesterday about a guy who did this and bent one. id rather have to sit in a cold truck and let it warm up then risk needing to but a few thousand dollars worth of parts for rebuild the head. as long as you have good batteries in the truck (which you should in a cold climate) the truck will start. like stated, cycle the key on and off with the grid heaters 2,3,4 times then crank it over...it will start easier