wings

Well the new job has taken me back to MN again but this time with my DCTD dualy. I'm no stranger to driving in the snow and ice but what about the diesel starting and running?? 15-40 oil is pretty thick stuff in 20 below weather. The book says I can go down about one grade when it is really cold. Last year in TN I think we had one or two days in the single digits but here it will be months of this.
I have a heater but it is going to be difficult to plug in as long as I have to live in the apt. I can't get close enough to plug in. Same at work. Some of the guys say to block off the radiator air flow. Maybe with a round hole in the block off. There aren't many diesels here most say no problem.
I could possible get a small generator and just leave it in the bed and let it run at work or go out and start it at midnight. The neighbors might complain however. what da ya think???
I only live 5 miles from work so maybe I should just walk. It wouldn't hurt me any to drop a few pounds anyway. LOL A 5 mile walk in -20 weather with the north wind blowing isn't fun.

wannadiesel

I'd suggest switching to a 5W-40 synthetic, the Shell variety is $12 a gallon at Wal-Mart, the other good deal is Mobil 1 Truck and SUV (which is a better oil).

If you can afford it, there are diesel fired block heaters. The 2 brands I've heard of are Espar and Webasto. They have timers that run off the truck battery to kick them on at a set time so you don't drain the fuel tank keeping the truck warm. The setups go for around $1,000 I think. It's a better way to go than a generator. Much quieter and cheaper to operate. And no hassle trying to get a generator started in -20 weather.

A winter front would be a good idea too, especially with such short trips. Lund makes a nice setup with individual panels that snap into the grille openings so you can tune the opening to the weather. It's called a "Cold Front" I think. There's also the piece of cardboard method, which has the advantage of being free. The hole is to keep the fan clutch from getting warm enough to kick in. You only need a 4 or 5 inch hole in the middle to get enough air.

TPilaske

I've used Delo 15-40 in mine since I got it. Never changed for winter or anything. It get's pretty cold here in Michigan and I only tried the "winter fronts" for a few weeks. Didn't like the temp sensor saying 70° outside when it was only about 15°. Never really noticed much difference w/ or w/out the fronts on. Try it out for a couple weeks and see how it is, you can always change the oil or add the fronts!


Tony

amartinson

I use synthetic 5-40 just because my truck has to sit out in the winter. I also use the Lund Cold Fronts when the weather gets below 20 degrees. They do make a difference as far as warm up time. Have never had a starting problem even when I can't plug in at work. I just cycle the grid heaters twice instead of once and let the truck idle in neutral for a minute or two before taking off. No problems.

wings

I looked up the lund fronts and they are only about 40 bucks for the plastic ones.
I'll try the cardboard a few days when it gets cold and if it works out I spring for the plastic.
I guess I'll try leaving the oil too. As long as it starts I guess it will be ok. I don't anticipate pulling anything heavy in the winter anyway.
As for the gen..the ones we used hunting up north only took a couple pulls (mighty) even when -20 so I still may go with the gen. I need one anyway for the streetrod cruises. May even get a bigger one and use it in the big boat.

thanks guys

Duluth Diesel

I live on Lake Superior in Northern Minnesota and Wisconsin. I have a Lund Stainless Steel grill cover (4 piece). Blocking out the grill helps the engine get to operating temp and stay there. Running dino oil is going to give you problems if you can't plug the block heater in, and even plugged in the dino oil isn't the greatest. When I first switched to Amsoil Heavy Duty Marine Synthetic 15W40, it was an amazing difference. The engine would turn over way way easier when not plugged in. Running synthetic, I am able to start my 2002 at temps of -25 without being plugged in (it doesn't sound pretty, but she starts!) I also run premium diesel fuel from retailers that move a lot of fuel (truck stops). On top of that I mix in Power Service cetane and anti-gel to ensure that I will have easier starts (cetane) and give me more confidence in my fuel not gelling up. Carry an extra fuel filter as well. If you run synthetic oil and run good fuel, you will not have a problem. Also, on you 1999 truck, make sure you have the TSB from Dodge that enables your 24 valve's high idle feature. You'll be glad you have it. Keep an extension cord in your truck so you can plug in at work. If you don't want to pay for the dealer to do this, Genos sells a adjustable rod so you can manually set a high idle via the go-pedal. (I've used my ice scraper and power seat to do this manual "el-cheapo" idle adjustment.) It is important to keep your engine at operating temp when idling. I've noticed that on really cold days, my 24 valve's engine temp will actually drop below normal operating range while it is at normal idle speed (like when I'm out of the truck working). I have to idle it up to about 1,300 rpm to maintain temp and prevent cylinder washdown during periods of idle.

Not to be redundant, but I cannot stress this enough: RUN SYNTHETIC OIL.
Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme is another good choice if you don't run Amsoil.

If you want to discuss at length my experiences surviving MN winters with diesels, feel free to PM me. I've been running diesels in MN since 1993 and have learned a few things along the way.

DD

msing

Wings I have the espar heater this is one of the best things I have done to my truck . at -35F run heater for 11/2 hours I get 150F engine temp and cab is warm windows clean. I use it in the summer to run it for 20min. 150F and go. It uses like 1/2 liter of diesel per hour and with good batterys will run for like 10 to 12 hours strate.

induchman

In the winter, my dealer switches over from 15W40 to 10W30 and we just add a quart every 3000 miles. Dodge used to make winter zip fronts and I've worn out a couple of them over the years (since 95), but I don't see them anymore. Now what I find are plastic inserts to fit into the grill. All well and good, but not as secure as the zip.

Check the batteries and replace them as required. I had to replace both of mine last January, when the cold weather killed 'em one night. Now I have water filled 750's, which I check every week.

Always carry an extra fuel/water separator, 50ft extension cord,
an extra gallon of oil, and a bottle of PS or Stanadyne.

infidel

I run 15w-40 dino year round but plug in. Would go with an Espar if I couldn't.
I remove my fan totally from Nov till June.
It does tend to get a little cold at 6000 feet in Montana. Close to 500k combined on my rigs with no winter problems and this method.
Tried the Lund inserts but noticed very little difference until the outside temps go over 85°, too much air comes in from the bottom of the engine.

bkrukow

I want one of the Espar heaters for my new truck. My old 98.5 would always start no problem, but I plan to keep this one for a long time and want to baby it as much as posible. Besides that I catch a LOT of crap from everyone at work abought driving a diesel and every day its below freezing someone will ask if its going to start. I would love to see the look on there faces when I go out to a warm pre heated truck and while they are all scraping there windows Im driving away with a warm cab and clean windows.

Dr. Evil

I have an ESPAR - its the BEST investment you can make if you have to suffer through 6 months of winter (like me).....

An exhaust brake, high idle switch, or trusty hockey stick is a must to help the Cummins warm up after its started.

dodgeram

I run Esso Xd3 dino year round 15w40 in the summer and 10w30 in the winter


I'ver started my truck just fine after sitting for 14 hours in -35 weather, just cycle the grid heaters twice

of course it likes it a lot better plugged in...........

amartinson

Thats you Canadians answer to everything!

Dr. Evil

works for everything from a toothpick to a weapon

Lightman

I would second the recommendation GET SYNTHETIC OIL. That's of course if you plan on keeping your truck and are worried about excessive wear. Have you ever poured 15w40 at -20 out of a bottle? It's THICK. Below 10F, it is recommended to use a 10w weight, and below 0 it's recommended to use a 5w weight. I highly recommend using a 5w40 synthetic like Amsoil, or Mobil Delvac 1/Truck&SUV. If you want to be a little cheaper about it, use premium blue extreme synthetic or rotella T synthetic. They aren't as good but still offer much b etter cold weather startup protection compared to a 15w40 dino oil. IMO you dont need to spring for any espar heaters or expensive equipment, just use the right oil and cycle your heater grids a few times if it's really cold!