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diesel oil question

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Old 03-25-2006 | 05:34 PM
  #16  
jon05ctd's Avatar
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From: mass
Originally Posted by djbikeman
Because they are out of Stratapore filters right now... I have had a 4/2 combo on order from them for 3 weeks. Genos, if you are reading this. When???

I have a Napa Gold in my truck right now.
I know the feeling on the backordered strathmores. from Genos.
I found mine from
http://www.scheiddiesel.com
They have them in stock. Shipped same day!
Old 03-25-2006 | 10:16 PM
  #17  
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From: Mt. Washington, CA. (Los Angeles)
ValvolinePremiumBlueExtreme.

After alot of searching/lurking/reading through these forums I found out about this stuff from some of the diesel veterans. I am currently using it for the first time. Since it has the Cummins endorsement, and it's 100% synthetic, I'll stick with it. I've been a Mobil1 guy forever, but this stuff seems to meet the same standards, maybe even exceed them? Anyhow, read the following. ValvolinePremiumBlueExtremeLink

Cheers
Old 03-25-2006 | 10:37 PM
  #18  
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From: Claxton, GA
I think I am going to use AMSOIL Diesel truck synthetic oil. I have done some searching on the internest on oil reports and Amsoil tests are the best compared to other leading brands. Yes it is expensive but no more than any other synthetic. My truck has 29,400 miles on it so it should be good and broken in. I wanted my rings to be good and seated. Once you put synthetic in the wear is very very minimal in my previous experience. I am also a Mobil One Syntec person. After reading the oil reports I am going to use Amsoil. Do your research with Yahoo or Google that way you can make an educated decision. Don't take my word on it.
Old 03-25-2006 | 11:35 PM
  #19  
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From: McKinney, TX
Originally Posted by djbikeman
Because they are out of Stratapore filters right now... I have had a 4/2 combo on order from them for 3 weeks. Genos, if you are reading this. When???

I have a Napa Gold in my truck right now.
Im surprized to hear they are out. I usually buy mine from the local Cummins store, but this last time I ordered from Genos when I ordered some other stuff. They sent me 4 of them plus 2 fuel filters.

I don't wait till im out of them to order though. I try to keep at least one in my toolbox on my truck and a few at the house so it doesn't become an "emergency".
Old 03-26-2006 | 10:17 AM
  #20  
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From: Montana
Originally Posted by Oilguy
Personally.. If you believe you need an oil stabilizer... Then you need a more stable oil to start with.
Agreed.
Check this out and tell me if you'd ever use Lucas
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm
Old 03-26-2006 | 01:40 PM
  #21  
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From: texas
I prefer the Rotella because it goes in clear, where Delo is already dark.

Rotella stays clear for a very long while - when I can no longer see the legend on the dipstick, it's time to drain and replace, about every three months in stop-and-go driving.

Also add STP, for the added zinc dialkyldithiophosphate.................

NAPA\WIX filters with each change

Have not tried the Delo 400.
Old 03-26-2006 | 03:12 PM
  #22  
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From: League City, TX
Delo 400 is dark because of the additive package I believe. Its a good oil, its what I used before I switched to Valvoline Premium Blue. It kept my Cummins happy.
Old 03-26-2006 | 06:14 PM
  #23  
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From: PA
I have always believed if a diesel oil is not black, it isnt cleaning anything. Last thing I want to see on any diesel is very clean oil after a few thousand miles. the Soot has to build somewhere, and all diesel engines produce soot.

I believe Chevron(correct me if im wrong) created diesel oil as we know it.

I however dont use it-nothing wrong with it, I am currently using Castrol Tection. With either a Donaldson filter or a stray Fleetguard when I cant get one.
Old 03-27-2006 | 01:20 AM
  #24  
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From: B.C. Canada
csramsey640... I have always believed if a diesel oil is not black, it isnt cleaning anything. Last thing I want to see on any diesel is very clean oil after a few thousand miles. the Soot has to build somewhere, and all diesel engines produce soot.

I use to think that way also, been working with diesel powered machinery most of my life. However, since owning my 2003 305hp/555 tq. this motor just doesn't soot the oil. Funny thing is the newer 2004.5 and on turn the oil black just like the older models. Why, I couldn't tell ya or give a good reason.
As for oil Valvoline premium blue is the oil for my truck. Get from cummins outlet, bulk sale price .
Old 03-27-2006 | 02:06 AM
  #25  
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From: Williston, ND
not to hi-jack but what is a good full synthtic 15/40 to start running in my 97 12v
Old 03-27-2006 | 04:04 AM
  #26  
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From: Maine
Synthetic diesel oil is not the easiest stuff to come by. Wally carries Rotella and now has back on the shelves Mobil 1 Truck & SUV. Rotella is a group III synthetic, IE made from dino oil basestocks. Mobil is a group IV which is a true synthetic and has proven better for long drain intervals than group III.
If you want to change for easier starting in the winter and don't intend to extend the drains, go with the Rotella. If you're out to be the first guy in the group to crack 1,500,000 on your engine, go with the M1.

IMHO the absolute best oil is Redline. Amsoil and Royal Purple are excellent as well, but they are really on par with the Mobil at much greater expense and not as readily available. Delo and Valvoline synthetics are out there and I'm sure great oils, again just not readily available to my knowledge.
Old 03-27-2006 | 04:32 AM
  #27  
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You know, everybody has their opinion.........including me.........on what oil is the best.

But has there ever been any UNBIASED test to say that brand "a" is better than all the others?

I have heard of some guys getting a million miles out of their engines using Shell Rotella Dino oil. I change every 5k with it and a new stratapore filter for a total outlay of about $30.00 and 20 minutes of my time......each time.

If I can get a million miles out of my engine and the Dodge truck body is going to fall apart at some point before that, then why should I change what im doing in regards to oil?
Old 03-27-2006 | 08:40 AM
  #28  
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From: Hoosier
Originally Posted by wyocowboy
RamMan i cant say anthing about the oil but i can tell you most people will not use A Fram Filter on thier cummins. I personally use the Mopar filter or a Wix. I know since i have been on these forums the consense i have got has been FRAM BAD.
Is there anyone on this site that has actually had first hand experience with a Fram filter blowing up, coming apart inside or otherwise ruining a CTD? I've heard lots of stories, but they always seem to be a friend of a friend of my brother in law. I heard the filter with the "A" in the part number was different and was suitable for the CTD.
Old 03-27-2006 | 08:52 AM
  #29  
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From: Bryan/ College Station, Texas
Yes.
Once on a Jeep
Once on a Chevy racing engine
Once on a Toyata racing engine
All Fram split dwon the side.... Huge Mess!
I use Purolater

Oilguy
Old 03-27-2006 | 10:28 AM
  #30  
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From: Montana
Originally Posted by cville6
Is there anyone on this site that has actually had first hand experience with a Fram filter blowing up, coming apart inside or otherwise ruining a CTD? I've heard lots of stories, but they always seem to be a friend of a friend of my brother in law. I heard the filter with the "A" in the part number was different and was suitable for the CTD.
from the August 2002 Cummins Bulletin®

TECHNICAL INFORMATION
It has been brought to our attention that a few DaimlerChrysler service
technicians are recommending that the FRAM PH3976 filter not be used on
Daimler Chrysler vehicles with the Cummins 5.9L Turbo Diesel engine and
that use of these filters can cause damage to the engine. Daimler Chrysler
has informed us that they released a Technical Service Bulletin to their
dealerships communicating a potential contamination issue and recommending
the use of only Fleetguard manufactured filters.
FRAM has been selling PH3976 filter for this engine application since the
engine platform launch and it has maintained an extremely reliable service
record. Late in 2000, Cummins and Daimler Chrysler brought to our
attention a low incidence failure mode in their Cummins 5.9L Turbo Diesel
engine of the piston cooling nozzle plugging, resulting in engine failure.
The plugging was caused by contaminates lodging in the nozzle. The
contaminants included metal chips, calcium carbonate, polyethylene, and
styrene butadiene that are not associated with filter manufacture, and a
neoprene compound, which is used as a sealant on the tapping plate of the
filter. There were also several other engine warranty issues determined
unrelated to the piston cooling nozzle plugging that were part of the
engine failure sample. A small amount of neoprene rubber was used in the
FRAM filter as a sealant.

Throughout our investigation with Cummins and DaimlerChrysler on various
engine failures, no conclusive evidence was found to assign cause to
filters or other contamination sources. However, driven to satisfy our
customers, the FRAM engineering team made modifications to the design
eliminating the neoprene and expedited development and manufacturing to
release a revised filter model number to PH3976A. With the design change
on the PH3976A completely removing the use of neoprene, there is
absolutely no validity in comments that the Fram filter should not be used
for this application or that it may cause engine failures associated with
plugged nozzles.
The Honeywell Consumer Products Group warranty policy also protects the
consumer if it is determined that a FRAM filter is responsible for damage
to an engine due to defects in design or workmanship. This information
should be openly conveyed to our customers if they have any concerns or
apprehension about using a FRAM filter for this application.

I wouldn't use a Fram because I thought it might fall apart but rather because they are cheap.
One thing I absolutely guarantee is if your oil filter ever fell apart and trashed your engine you would have a much easier time getting Fram to honor it's warranty than Fleetguard.


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