Ripper406

How much weight can the front Dana 60 support and how much do you guys put down at the scales on the front? What are the weak points to the Dana 60 and is it possible to make it handle more weight? How about the Dana 70 front axle, what year trucks did the come in and how good are they?

Also the AAM axles, how good are they and what ratings do they have? Thanks for the help guys Im planning on a new project, well trying to see if its even possible.

apache

The diesel versions and some gassers have the 4500 lb rating as opposed to the standard 3800,3600?. long ago on the early dodge 4x4s (75 up to 80?) with no locking hubs, I had problems breaking hubs at the casting around the bearing assembly. I even called the Dana corp to find parts and no go. The locking hubbed versions are the best IMO. the later vacume lock and no hubs are ok I suppose. U joints go to often on the axles from continuious turning. How far part 4500 lbs is anyones guess before it stress it to much.

Jambbii

Structurally, the dana 60 week points are the front central axel disconnect (cad) on 2nd gens. It is the cast part where the two axles meet and the collar slides over them for 4wd. I bend mine about a month ago pretty bad, but I was abusing it offroad. The cad was bent and the drivers side axle tub also. Otherwise I am not sure what rating they can handle. Since then I have made a truss and I doubt it will ever bend. I can poste pics if interested.

Ripper406

Yes pics would be good, are you talking about strengthing the part where the gearcase and the axle tubes get pushed into. I seen on the 04 3500, they have made some small triangles to help that. But a full truss would be better, also where the actual pivot point is where the U joints are inside the C. I Cant explain it correctly but what Im trying to say is where the axle has its steering, how the actual axle housing is connected to the turn axles with U joints, how strong is that. Anyway to make it stronger?

Jambbii

here is what I did.

CTD NUT

2nd gen CTD's have a 4850 lb D60 front.........ball joints and wheel bearings will not put up with prolonged overloading........IMO, these parts are marginal for the 4850 lb rating........D70 fronts last appeared in mid 70's trucks and typically had a heavier and stronger housing than a 60 but most of the components from the knuckles out are the same as a 60 with the open knucle 70.........and stay away from a closed knuckle 70........FWIW, the AAM front does appear to have beefier ball joints.

gunracer1

ctd nut nailed it, the only differace between a 60 and a 70 is a 70 has a little bigger ring gear, and it has 35 spline outer stub axles, the wheel bearings are all the same. the king pin type axles are preferred in the off road world over the ball joint axles. the 70 would not hold anymore weight than a 60 in my book.

inner axles 35 spline, on both the 60 and 70
stub axles 30 spline on a 60, 35 on a 70
bearing, the same for both

Ripper406

Thats some nice work on the Axle beefing, Is their a way to strengthen the knuckles? Looks like only 2 bolts on each side hold the outter axle to the center piece.

1ST GEN.

I WAS OFF ROADING AND CENTERED A ROCK WHITH THE GEAR HOUSING WHICH PUT A VERY SMALL CRACK IN THE HOUSING AND BENT MY CONTROL ARMS AND SHOVED THE FRONT OF THE HOUSING UP AND INTO THE OIL PAN. I HAVE THE TRUCK RUNNING AGAIN BUT I WAS WONDERING IF IT WOULD BE OK TO WELD THE CRACK UP OR IS IT UN FIXABLE, BY THE WAY IT WAS ON MY 99 3500 CAB AND CHASSIS