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Any tractor or diesel mechanics have any Ideas on this thing

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Old 04-03-2005 | 11:32 AM
  #31  
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Yeah it has 3 heads all inline,I wish cummins was that way it sure would be easier to pull than the big single.
Old 04-03-2005 | 02:03 PM
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have had this happen to several different tractors caleed electrolysis of the block,dont know exactly what happens but i bet you may need a new sleeve in the motor
Old 04-03-2005 | 02:45 PM
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From: somewhere in northwestern ohio....Mansfield, Oh
Electrolysis would be my guess to , drop the pan and presurize the radiator and you will know in a hurry.
Old 04-03-2005 | 09:35 PM
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Well I ran it a bunch today to get it to operating temp and The oil into the radiator has slowed down or maybe stopped.I only ran it the other day when all the oil was coming out the overflow for 5 to 10 minutes max,it never got close to operating temp.The oil isnt coming out the overflow much at all now.Im going to clean out the radiator and see how much its getting in there .Ill probably still pull the pan and see if I can pressure up the radiator.How do you guys pressure up the radiator.thanx for all the help
Old 04-03-2005 | 10:35 PM
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auto shops usually have a tool for doing that, its basically a rad. cap with a hose and a pump with a gage, you dont want to go much over 15-20 psi tho, you 'll find out how well the rad. is holding up too. check around, maybe you can rent one at an auto parts store or if you know a good mechanic, he should have one.
Old 04-03-2005 | 10:56 PM
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maybe autozone will have one
Old 04-03-2005 | 11:17 PM
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From: Northern Iowa
Dufrain,

When you pressurize your system - and wear safety goggles please, when you do this - get the pressure up to 15-20psi and then hold it there, if your pressurizing system is able to do this. This way you can detect long-term how the system is able to stand up to pressure. Where I used to work we had a 55-gallon drum with an air-operated two-way valve to drain the coolant out of an engine, or force it back in. Made pressurizing easy, but such a device is not commonly avalible, or is it?

Your pictures reminded me of how simple diesel engines USED to be... Oh thank you, EPA!
Old 04-04-2005 | 12:38 PM
  #38  
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I'd try and flush the cooling system really well and then run it, if you are only putting an ounce or two of oil into the coolant then it's not that big of an issue, just make sure no coolant is going in the oil or you will toast the engine!!!

The first thing that comes to mind is the seals around the top of the sleeves and or cavitation in this area, but I can't for the life of me figure out where the oil would come from in this area??????


Get it up to temp and run it for a bit so long as no coolant is going into the oil!!!

You could always try to get her good and hot and put the Bahrs Stop leak to it. Sometimes that stuff actuially works, of course it is just a band aid. All depends on what your plans for the tractor are???? How much are you going to run it and what are you going to do with it?? Probably one of the biggest problems with that tractor is the rear ends, they are known to bust and be expensive.

Pretty sure there is only regular "cog-smash" manual shift availabe in that series right??? The newer series with the 3 speed powershift are junk.... Manual shift is ok.
Old 04-04-2005 | 04:22 PM
  #39  
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From: Somewhere between a rock and hard place.
Originally posted by Dufrain
Yeah it has 3 heads all inline,I wish cummins was that way it sure would be easier to pull than the big single.
You just haven't bought a big enough Cummins. The single head on the 5.9 is out of character with Cummins--there are literally millions of three-head Cummins engines out there.
Old 04-05-2005 | 09:00 PM
  #40  
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Your tractor has a J series Cummins. One head for every two cylinders. Cummins has made engines for Case since way back in the 50's.

If you need a manual, parts, or need to find links to other obsolete Case parts try here: http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/store/s...&md=930CK&cat=
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