I am looking at a 2001 Cummins Ram with 59,000 miles. The truck is a two wheel drive automatic, extremely clean and seems to run great. I may pick it up today for an extensive test drive and since I have never owned a diesel I could use a few pointers in what to look for. First, is this the years of the cracking blocks, if so is it the 53 casting that cracks and where do I find the casting number? Second, is this the year of the bad transmissions (automatic) and if so are the two wheel drives as likely to fail as the four wheel drive trucks? Third, is this the bad Injector pump years and if so is there anything I can check or is it just a crap shoot, and if I buy is there anything you can do to prevent it from happening? Last, how well does the two wheel drive automatic Cummins trucks pull? I am planning to use this truck to pull an enclosed trailer, do these have heavy duty rear ends and do they handle a load pretty good, I assume since it is an automatic two wheel drive 2001 it probably does not have the HO version.

Any help will be appreciated.

 

I think the majority believe the 01 or the 01.5 was the best 2nd gens you can find.I am pretty sure most of the 53 casting were all gone by 01. The casting number would be on the bottom of the block looking up from the ground. If I remember right ( and I might not) it is stamped by the oil pan on the driver's side under the injection pump. I had a 5 speed so I didn't focus on the auto trannies much.

I don't think there was a really bad year for injector pumps. Get a fuel pressure gauge and watch the lift pump pressure (this is not an option for a 24v.) That is the best insurance on a injector pump failure.

My two wheeled dually pulled anything I had including an old wooden framed 35 foot fifthe wheel just fine. I just wanted a four wheel drive and the newer quad cab.

Is the truck a 3500 dually or a 2500 single? I would imagine that a 2 wheel drive single would get some pretty good mpg if driven right. I lost a lot of mpgs when I jumped to a four wheel drive 3rd gen.

Good luck, I am sure others way more knowlegeable will provide you a lot more info soon.

Procrastinator

If the price was right, I would jump on it.

 

As procrastinator said, get a fuel pressure gauge and monitor it - you can detect a failing lift pump prior to it taking out the injection pump that way. If you work it hard the 47 RE automatic will require work down the road, but these can be modified to make them more robust - at a price. Do a search, you'll find lots of info.

Make sure thier price is in line with KBB, preferably between "private party" and "trade in." CARFAX or Autocheck the VIN number - do this yourself, paper copies at the dealer may be "doctored." Good luck - and enjoy your new truck!

 

The Vin for the 2500 is:

1B7KC23651J202761


Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

 

I checked for the block casting number, the only number I could find was towards the front of the engine about an inch above the oil pan. There is a wiring harness running over top of the number but it appears to be a 50 . Is this actually a casting number or something else? I still have the truck and if I need to I can take that harness loose real quick and double check the number.

Thanks.

 

The 53 stamping is about an inch in size, and it looks like I was wrong (not a suprise) its on the passenger side.. I hope this helps.

http://www.Stamey.Info/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm

Procrastinator

 

Get the fuel PSI tested before you commit, and if you do purchase it get a fuel pressure gauge. I have pulled with mine quite a few times, and it has not let me down. The only complaint I might have would be the 3.55 rear end with the 315's on the ground. If you are going to do a lot of towing, stick with either the 265's but no more than 285's. Also, it would not be a bad idea to upgrade the rear wheel cylinders to the cheby dually w.cylinders. I love my '01

 

Thanks for the reply, I will get the fuel PSI tested first. It does have the 3.55 rear end in it.
Also:
I am currently fighting with the dealer on the price. I know he has had the truck for 43 days on the lot so it is nearing the end of its wanted lot life that most dealers strive for. Anyway, what should a truck like this run?

2001 Ram 2500 CTD, TWO-Wheel drive, Auto, SLT, cloth interior, nicely optioned, decent tires, 59,000 miles, stone stock, bed liner nice paint but has some ugly add ons like wide chrome rocker moldings, full running boards that both would have to be removed. Anyway, nice truck but I am in a battle and looking for back-up on my position (Not that it will really help).

 

I paid $23.5k for mine in Oct. 02, with 22k miles on it.

 

What are they asking for it?

Have you checked kbb.com for thier values?

Did you carfax it? My account has expired, it dosen't cost much...

Good luck.

 

53 Block: I'm a little embarrassed to say I've never investigated the 53 block issue. I could have one for all I know ... mine is a 2000 model.

Bad transmissions: To answer your question ... yes. However, I want to clarify that even though I do not have an automatic, I don't think they're 'bad.' I just think they were never robust enough in stock form to handle a stock Cummins towing. A 2WD would fail the same as a 4WD ... it depends on how much you load the truck. 2WD - 4WD doesn't matter.

Bad injector pumps: Short answer ... no. The LP's are what goes bad, and if a LP slowly dies, it could be damaging the IP for miles and miles, eventually taking out the IP. As said before, put in a fuel pressure gage. To prevent, there may be a couple ways, and a big arguement will ensue if you ask which is the best. But one of the ways is a FASS system.

2WD autos pull: I don't know, but I hear they do great, especially well if the auto is upgraded by a knowlegdeable tranny shop. I've never heard of a problem with the rear ends. And it is true that your auto tranny truck will not be an H.O. At least I believe that its the 235/460 engine.

I hope I've not gone wrong on too much of that info.

- JyRO