How do you guys keep your WVO line warm
#1
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How do you guys keep your WVO line warm
I had to replace the feed line from my vortex ( at the back of the bed) to the pollack 6 port (sitting on the inside of the master cyl.). I'm sure it will be fine for another 3-4 months(winter), but I'm worried about the oil congealing.
I was thinking I could use another 6 port and have it rigged so I can switch the return in such a way as to either force the WVO feed back to the tank with diesel, or just return to the aux. tank with hot WVO.
Sow how do those of you in colder climates deal with this?
I was thinking I could use another 6 port and have it rigged so I can switch the return in such a way as to either force the WVO feed back to the tank with diesel, or just return to the aux. tank with hot WVO.
Sow how do those of you in colder climates deal with this?
#2
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I run a heated pickup, vormax and heated hose-in-hose lines to feed and return fuel. Then a heat exchanger in the engine compartment.
Heres the diagram Chris over at frybrid made up. I think hes the one that came up with the idea and posted it for folks to copy. It works really well!
http://www.frybrid.com/hih.htm
This warms the lines and all the contents after about 15min or so on the road. Id install a temp sender and gauge someplace to make sure.
I have two pollaks I bought for the conversion but ended up with frybrid's hydraforce valves so I never used them. Want to buy em?
Also still have some spools of the aluminum line used for the HIH in the plans that I bought from mcmaster-carr and never used.
Best setup for me was two valves, one for feed and one for return. The pollaks I have are 6-port so you could do it with one, but then you lose control over seperate feed/return.
I run bio in my tanks for the moment, and I can fill the main tank from the aux or vice-versa.
Heres the diagram Chris over at frybrid made up. I think hes the one that came up with the idea and posted it for folks to copy. It works really well!
http://www.frybrid.com/hih.htm
This warms the lines and all the contents after about 15min or so on the road. Id install a temp sender and gauge someplace to make sure.
I have two pollaks I bought for the conversion but ended up with frybrid's hydraforce valves so I never used them. Want to buy em?
Also still have some spools of the aluminum line used for the HIH in the plans that I bought from mcmaster-carr and never used.
Best setup for me was two valves, one for feed and one for return. The pollaks I have are 6-port so you could do it with one, but then you lose control over seperate feed/return.
I run bio in my tanks for the moment, and I can fill the main tank from the aux or vice-versa.
#5
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I say if you want to really have a leg to stand on you should go but two identical vw idi cars and run only Bio on one and only WVO on the other. After X number of miles tear them both down and compare. That is the best way to do it. Oh yeah you will need to buy a third to run on #2 only to make the whole scientific method work out correctly. Until then I believe that personal experiences of this forum are pretty good for proof. Sure some will have problems, but who doesn't have some problems running #2?
Ok, my rant is over. Sorry.
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