2RamsNoCash

In texas you might not have my issue,but in northeast running B10 in winter can cause filter plugging when I cross some passes at -10 to 10 degrees I could only get approx 2000 rpm then surging started.once hit warmer temps problem went away.currently am running B20 and doing fine.My advice is if you are going to make it blend it to B20 or less.All the OTR drivers up here stop using biofuels in winter.I like the lubricity of it but mileage doesnt seem like promised.as well I have been told switching from ulsd to biofuel can cause filter plugging and seperation of suspended particles from fuel.last I knew Stanadyne had only recommended B5 with its components others go as far as B20.In europe they have a strict standard not so in US.I would imagine cooking own fuel could yield various results as most folks are not chemists and without having strict controls could result in poor fuel as well as engine repairs.about 8 years ago I read about cooking fuel in Mother earth news and bought a book.I would heavily research this before undertaking.Bill

annabelle

Bio has a gelling point of about 26* F. You should be fine in the summer.

2RamsNoCash

well tell my truck and others in northeast why we are slowing down at 29 degrees on B20 when we switched to that awful ulsd went away.as well I used a full 32 oz bottle of power service 911 twice along with ISO heat.best thing I did was add 2 gals of unleaded. to keep fuel flowing.we use to put that much in our VW rabbit and it ran 325k till fenders were more rust than steel . the supplier up here responded to our issues by going to B10 around mid Jan but still had issues. I just went back to B20 in late apr and is fine now I read alot about these issues after.and still think its all processing how they wash out the fuel plus Bio absorbs water due to the methanol when ulsd is mixed in this can cause fat seperation colder temps aggrivate this.If you drive alot up here I know of 4 places in NH with bio and a few in southern VT if I run around in northern areas its not available so i end up using ulsd.after changing filters in freezing weather on side of road I decline to use in winter.as well if you drive alot of miles I run 75k a year you would need a 100 gal bed tank to insure steady supply of same fuel.this amounts to almost 1000 lbs in bed and drops your carrying capacity for trailer.I put approx 2500 lbs on my gooseneck hitch thinking others load heavier so add that to fuel and tools ,and my quadcab is well over 11,000 lbs a little much for my dana 70.I am not against biofuel I just think it should pass a lab standard as strict as europes.As well small contaminates can cause ice crystals in fuel which then gel at higher points.methanol attracts water.

John Faughn

Here in Minnesota , the UofM & Hennipen county road crew dept. tested for 2-3 yrs. , year round , B20 , used standard additives for winter , with no problems , the only difference that they found was a little quieter running , millage & all els were the same .
The only reason that I did not use in winter is my source was an above ground tank that we chose not to insulate & heat .
If the fuel is done according to the fuel standards [ a good wash ] the water & alcohol , are to low % to do much of anything .

infidel

Several municipal fleets in Montana (where it gets plenty cold) run B20 year round without problem. I've been running B20 year round for over 5 years, no problem.
My thought is when you get further in the country from where oil crops are grown and processed is the quality of BD might not be what it should be. The feedstock of the BD makes a big difference. In non-agricultural areas most BD is made from lard and used deep fry oil, the least desirable of feedstocks.