front brake pad replacement
04-09-2007, 08:37 PM
#1
Administrator/Jarhead
Thread Starter
front brake pad replacement
I've seen a few questions on how to do this in the last few weeks, and I was doing mine tonight, so I figured that I'd post a how-to.
First, on the pain scale (easy-hard) this is about a 3 beer job. Not too much to it, very easy to accomplish one person job. I am trying to write this as if someone had never done it before, so if anyone has anything to add, your thoughts would be appreciated.
First, get a beer. (this is optional. See disclamer at the bottom)
Break lug-nuts loose, then jack up one side of the truck and support it with a jack stand. Remember, safety first. (as you see the truck jacked up in the grass. Sorry, no concrete in the trailer park) (To combat this, I used a concrete stepping stone. The grass would have not been safe, nor would it have supported the mighty Cummins' weight) Remove the tire. I place the tire under the frame behind the wheel well just in case the truck were to fall off the jack stand. This way, the truck would not be sitting on the rotor if it fell, and I might be able to get out from under it with out dying.
Get another beer.
Once the tire is off, take a 1/2 inch socket and take the caliper bolts off. These are the two bolts on the inside of the caliper. I am pointing at the top one in the second pic. These come all the way out. After you get the bolts out, move the 2 rubber pieces that are in between the caliper and the rotor assembly slightly to the inside of the vehicle. (last pic) This will keep them from hanging up on the rotor assembly. Gently pry the top part of the caliper toward the rear of the vehicle. Once is is free from the rotor assembly, lift the caliper, and do the same for the bottom of the caliper. The plungers will still be tight on the old pads, so this will take some force. If if does not move at all, make sure that you are not hung up on something. Be sure to support the caliper when it is almost off, they are slightly heavy, and you do not want the weight of the caliper on the brake line when it comes loose. (I used my knee to support it) Once the caliper is free, place it on top of the hub/rotor assembly. Remove the old pads by moving the outside pad toward the outside of the vehicle, and the inside one toward the inside of the vehicle. They will slide off easily. Do one at a time, they are different. (take the outside one off, match it to the new one, put the new one on.)
Get another beer. It's important to rest...
Once the new pads are on, take one of the old pads and place it on the caliper plungers. I place the pad side on the plunger, it is smooth. Take a pair of C-clamp vice grips, a regular c-clamp, or some big channel lock pliers, and slowly compress the calipers in. Nice and easy, or you'll tear the crap up. Once the plungers stop moving in, put them back on the rotor assembly, opposite steps of taking it off. Slide the bottom in first, then the top. Check the rubber grommets to make sure that they are not in the way. (I find that they often hang up on the back of the caliper assembly.) Replace the bolts. Put the tire back on. Repeat for the other side.
Once you are done, remember that the brakes will be really soft at first. Crank the truck and pump the brakes a few times until you have a firm brakes. Take it down the road at a slow speed, use the brakes a few times, then check your brake fluid reservoir. Add fluid if needed. There was no need for me to bleed the brakes, as I did not crack a line. Out of all the brake jobs that I have done, only 1-2 of them needed to be blead. That's another thread.
Hope this was helpful. Like I said, I tried to break it down as simple as I could. This is a very easy job, IMHO.
If I missed something, please post it, and I will edit it in.
I did not do the rear brakes, they were good. As far as I know, the procedures are the same for the rear.
Disclamer: I do not encourage the consumption of alcohol when working on vehicles. If you get plowed because you have a low beer tolerance, and get hurt following my directions, don't blame me.
Remember, safety first. Use the proper equipment, let someone know where you are and what you are doing in case something bad happens. If something seems jacked up, stop and ask someone. Brakes are an important part of your vehicle.
First, on the pain scale (easy-hard) this is about a 3 beer job. Not too much to it, very easy to accomplish one person job. I am trying to write this as if someone had never done it before, so if anyone has anything to add, your thoughts would be appreciated.
First, get a beer. (this is optional. See disclamer at the bottom)
Break lug-nuts loose, then jack up one side of the truck and support it with a jack stand. Remember, safety first. (as you see the truck jacked up in the grass. Sorry, no concrete in the trailer park) (To combat this, I used a concrete stepping stone. The grass would have not been safe, nor would it have supported the mighty Cummins' weight) Remove the tire. I place the tire under the frame behind the wheel well just in case the truck were to fall off the jack stand. This way, the truck would not be sitting on the rotor if it fell, and I might be able to get out from under it with out dying.
Get another beer.
Once the tire is off, take a 1/2 inch socket and take the caliper bolts off. These are the two bolts on the inside of the caliper. I am pointing at the top one in the second pic. These come all the way out. After you get the bolts out, move the 2 rubber pieces that are in between the caliper and the rotor assembly slightly to the inside of the vehicle. (last pic) This will keep them from hanging up on the rotor assembly. Gently pry the top part of the caliper toward the rear of the vehicle. Once is is free from the rotor assembly, lift the caliper, and do the same for the bottom of the caliper. The plungers will still be tight on the old pads, so this will take some force. If if does not move at all, make sure that you are not hung up on something. Be sure to support the caliper when it is almost off, they are slightly heavy, and you do not want the weight of the caliper on the brake line when it comes loose. (I used my knee to support it) Once the caliper is free, place it on top of the hub/rotor assembly. Remove the old pads by moving the outside pad toward the outside of the vehicle, and the inside one toward the inside of the vehicle. They will slide off easily. Do one at a time, they are different. (take the outside one off, match it to the new one, put the new one on.)
Get another beer. It's important to rest...
Once the new pads are on, take one of the old pads and place it on the caliper plungers. I place the pad side on the plunger, it is smooth. Take a pair of C-clamp vice grips, a regular c-clamp, or some big channel lock pliers, and slowly compress the calipers in. Nice and easy, or you'll tear the crap up. Once the plungers stop moving in, put them back on the rotor assembly, opposite steps of taking it off. Slide the bottom in first, then the top. Check the rubber grommets to make sure that they are not in the way. (I find that they often hang up on the back of the caliper assembly.) Replace the bolts. Put the tire back on. Repeat for the other side.
Once you are done, remember that the brakes will be really soft at first. Crank the truck and pump the brakes a few times until you have a firm brakes. Take it down the road at a slow speed, use the brakes a few times, then check your brake fluid reservoir. Add fluid if needed. There was no need for me to bleed the brakes, as I did not crack a line. Out of all the brake jobs that I have done, only 1-2 of them needed to be blead. That's another thread.
Hope this was helpful. Like I said, I tried to break it down as simple as I could. This is a very easy job, IMHO.
If I missed something, please post it, and I will edit it in.
I did not do the rear brakes, they were good. As far as I know, the procedures are the same for the rear.
Disclamer: I do not encourage the consumption of alcohol when working on vehicles. If you get plowed because you have a low beer tolerance, and get hurt following my directions, don't blame me.
Remember, safety first. Use the proper equipment, let someone know where you are and what you are doing in case something bad happens. If something seems jacked up, stop and ask someone. Brakes are an important part of your vehicle.
04-10-2007, 12:04 PM
#6
DTR's 'Go to Guy'
It would be a good idea to take the metal "sleeve" out of the rubber boot in the above picture and use some brake lube on it. They sell it at various auto parts stores. Cheap insurance to keep the caliper slide from sticking and wearing out one side quicker thatn the other. Most of the caliper problems I see come from the slides sticking. I also lube the spots where the brake pads sit on the caliper to help them move freely as well. Too much lube will make a mess of things. It just takes a light coat!
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04-15-2007, 10:35 AM
#12
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Great write up. Its this kind of maintenence that I enjoy doing myself. I would way rather do these things then have someone else do them. I always feel uncomfortable letting someone else work on my truck, it just doesn't feel right. I take pride in knowing I did it, and it was done right. Must be a guy thing! LOL
04-15-2007, 12:02 PM
#13
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madhat:
The only thing I would recommend differently is to mic and turn the rotors. You can have them turned at some of the parts store. This can take out warpage , allow the brake pad to seat correctly as well as determine if the rotors are thick enough or need to be replaced. Of course the caliper brackets need to be removed. While at the parts store ask someone the torque settings for caliper bolts as well as caliper bracket bolts. Thanks for your service to our country! I owe my freedom to the fine men and women that are serving now and have served before. I also served. USMC 1990-1999. I was a CH-46E pilot out of MCAS New River. MOS, 7562.
The only thing I would recommend differently is to mic and turn the rotors. You can have them turned at some of the parts store. This can take out warpage , allow the brake pad to seat correctly as well as determine if the rotors are thick enough or need to be replaced. Of course the caliper brackets need to be removed. While at the parts store ask someone the torque settings for caliper bolts as well as caliper bracket bolts. Thanks for your service to our country! I owe my freedom to the fine men and women that are serving now and have served before. I also served. USMC 1990-1999. I was a CH-46E pilot out of MCAS New River. MOS, 7562.
04-15-2007, 12:04 PM
#14
Administrator/Jarhead
Thread Starter
Good points, daddy. Semper. I'll feel the rotors, and if they look good, I'll leave them on. Only 40k miles, so I was not too concerend. Good point, tho...
Thanks for your service. You paved the way for me!
Thanks for your service. You paved the way for me!
04-15-2007, 12:09 PM
#15
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Nice write-up. The only thing you did not mention, and I may have done differently, was when to consume the second beer. I did mine between sides. The third one comes, 1/2 during letting the truck down, and 2nd 1/2 after the test drive.
Wetspirit
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