98fargo, I have heard that a few times before but had 2 mechanics (and a few manuals) prove to me that it is a D70/D60 combo. My plan is to put hubs on it.

As for the 203 v 205, if I am lucky enough to come across an affordable 205, I will use both by adding the back end of the 203 to the 205 and add a double cardan drive end to the drive shaft in order to eliminate most of the vibrations from the potential of extreme angles. That is a WAYS off though. For now I just want to get the parts to get the engine swap done.

Tranny to be delivered early next week and core support, intercooler, ac condenser, the week following week.

The front clip will come off sometime between Veteran's day and Thanksgiving (it is hunting season after all).

 

after further review, it seems I was full of a smelly brown substance and 98fargo is correct. I have rectified that situation with a D60f/D70r out of a 1st gen with 3.54 gearing that will be here Friday and will get refreshed and may get some selectable lockers$?$

So far I have acquired the starter, motor mounts, gauges and bezel from 91 CTD, engine compartment wiring harness, a set of 3rd Gen wheels, and the core support.

What I think I need: Fuel delivery (airdog as well as lines), Brake Calipers, Hydroboost for the brakes, and the springs.

I will be finalizing the order from Alcan for the springs on the 1st of Feb.

What am I missing? I was hoping to have things started by now but want everything before I get after it. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

 

As far as I know, the 727 uses a 23spline NP205 even with the Cummins. the Good thing is the 23-spline has been used ever since the 70's when Dodge first went to married tcases.

Furthermore, you could recycle your NP203 into a Doubler setup. That helps the front driveshaft angle also.

 

I have considered using the 203 in a doubler setup but I am having difficulty obtaining an affordable 205 and I had concerns about making the rear drive shaft even shorter. The drive train will end up being 2 inches closer to the rear axle, that plus a doubler setup means at least 6 inches less rear drive shaft and some sever angles.

Any suggestions that fix these issues are welcome and appreciated!

 

It depends how long the 727/205 combo would be. If its anything like a TH350/205 in a Chevy, its pretty short, and the extra t-case (i.e. Doubler) helps even out the driveshaft lengths.

Fullsize Broncos used a CV shaft front and back to help with the angles. However they are smaller 1330 stuff. Not 1410 like we have. High Angle Driveline makes large-joint custom CV shafts, but they come at a price. 99+ Ford Superduties use a 1350 CV.

I am pondering a future Ramcharger build for my spare non-IC cummins. There are a couple of RC's sitting around locally. I'm looking at going to a drivers-side front axle for exhaust clearance, and use a high-pinion Ford axle to help the driveshaft angle. Then see about using a 2nd-gen NP241, or adapt a Ford NP205.

 

u2slow,
You could easily adapt the ford 205 if you had a ford front axle... Good luck my friend!!

 

The Ramcharger has moved to the work area and tear down started late Sunday. Front clip almost removed. Wednesday, I hope to have a clean engine compartment so preps for the cummins can really begin. Picked up a 92 grille and the springs are ordered.

I think the rear driveshaft problem is solved. The one purchased will be shortened. If anyone has any tips on that one let me know. The plan is to take it to a driveline place with measurements.

The 203/205 doubler will need the kit so that may be a project for the future. D60/D70s are cleaned and waiting for the springs.

More to follow!!

 

I have removed all the gasser drive train and have started cleaning and prepping the chassis for the conversion. I started pondering some things and looking at the parts I have.

The engine I bought is a 93 but the previous home for it was a 77 F250 and he did not use a PCM. So therefore, I do not and did not intend to use a PCM either. The tranny is a 727 so I don't need it for that. What wiring mods should I make? Also, what is the best way to control the grid heater?

Thanks for any/all help!

 

I wired mine up manually using a momentary switch. You can still buy the factory relays to wire the old beast up with.

If I can find some more info, I'll run it down for you tonight.

 

Thanks Devilz!! I have read and re-read your thread. That was all the inspiration I needed to attempt this project.

 

welcome, the pic is up!

 

The transmission and t-case came out today and some POR 15 went on the frame after some easy off oven cleaner and the powerwasher did some work.

Getting the trans and Tcase was problematic due to the lack of a hoist or ramps. But after some redneck engineering, the truck was high enough to clear the assembly (with tranny jack) under the frame.

The Lizard skin arrived yesterday so if the weather holds I will be stripping the interior and prepping for the sound/thermal insulation and then the herculiner. The plan here is to coat the interior and leave the carpet in the junk pile. We will see how loud it is but I have a long way to go before I start complaining about noise

An update on the parts acquisition: Front drive shaft from W250, gas tank from 93 Ramcharger and fuel module from 92 W250, core support, radiator and intercooler, engine harness and cab wiring all acquired.

Still need: Radiator shroud, bolts for the engine mounts, steering column, and dash still needed.

 

Today was a rough day. I seperated the Tcase and Tranny and when I went to mate the NP203 to the diesel 727, the bolt pattern was different. The later 727 had a round bolt pattern and the NP203 did not

I noticed some other interesting (to me) things as I was pulling the output shaft housing off the old 727...It is cast iron, not aluminum. It is also a full 3 inches shorter than the rear housing on the diesel 727.

Here is my question, Will I be able to take the output shaft and housing (output shaft housing does have the same pattern on both trannies) from one and swap to the other? Did anyone else have this problem?

Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

 

Today was a good day for the Cramcharger!

The underbody was pressure washed and scrubbed. All in preps for the rubberized spray coating. I was surprised at how much crap was under there. The usual spots had some scale but no holes.

I removed the interior and found a pristine floor. There was a few spots with some scale and a spot where the factory painted over some grease or something. Those spots were all prepped, primed with etching primer and the whole bottom was covered with Lizard Skin.

During the last week, I discovered the bolts that hold the motor mounts on as well as the transmission adapter are not Dodge bolts. They are Cummins bolts and $5 a piece. So I ordered them. Of course, Cummins Cal Pacific doesn't have 16, they only had 12. No telling how long before I will get the bolts.

The NP203 Transfer case is headed to the machine shop to be drilled and tapped to match the output housing of the new (new to me) transmission.

The drivetrain will go in as soon as the bolts arrive!!

I am sure there will be more set backs but things are progressing.

 

Let see some more pictures of this beast. I had shopped and researched doing my swap before deciding I needed a doner vehicle.

I lucked out and found my W350 doner 670miles away.

You're doing it the tough way, but it will all be worth it with the first gen RC. I wish I had done one for mine. They just look so badass with the top off.

I am planning on lining the entire interior (roof too) with beadliner also, then slap on sound deadening material, then carpet and headliner.

more pictures please.....