Just for grins, Id love to take my 1st gen down to one of the pulls this summer, but, I dont want to look stupid n die at 100 feet either.
Here is just a short list of what I already have planned: (keep in mind this truck must remain towing friendly)

1) the pump has already been turned up (some)
2) 3200RPM spring is in order soon
3) full 4" turbo back exhaust
4) Bosch 190's (PODS are over kill for my use)
5) some form of intake (BHAF)
6) LuK stock upgrade clutch, cerametillic isnt horse friendly
7) Posi

Now what I dont know is turbo sizing! What housings would be good? I want to upgrade for better low RPM boost, but will change out housings for fun.
Also what im afraid of is "chevy syndrome" that nasty driveshaft twist'n, U-joint bustin, axle twisting bounce! How do I prevent this?? I have 10 leaves per side on this truck.
Im sure I missed something somewhere! I'll think of more im sure! Thanks guys!

 

A 12 or 16cm housing will be fine. Sounds like all your other mods will be fine too. Is your truck 4x4 though?

Eric

 

it ain't worth pullin without a dual disk clutch

 

and 2wd is even worse than not having a clutch.

 

Its a 2 wheel drive. Like I said though, just for the sheer fact of doin it once. I aint looking to pull the thing home with me, if I move the thing a hundred feet, fine, but I dont want to move it a hundred feet because the motor, or driveline isnt up to par. hehehe, also those bias ply tires I got sittin outback on dually wheels make me wonder just how much grip I can get.

aside from the fact its 2 wheel, what is this dual disk set-up? Im not willing to drop 600+ into a clutch when the one I want is $225 and well suited for my "playing" and practicality uses. Also remember its a Getrag, not a NV.
And what about the rear suspension, obviously a good smooth ride down the track is optimal, but what is the set-up of choice? I used to own OBS chevy's and know all about the leaf packs, and seen what they do on the track. Im worried that my leaf packs are too much like a GM's and its going to hop like the freeking Easter bunny!

 

I really do not think that pods would be overkill

I had them in my old 90 model and it was a tow rig most of the time those injectors are very "user friendly"

btw a $225 clutch aint gonna hold if your pullin a sled.

jmo
jake

 

No offense- but I dont think you will move it 20 ft with a 2 WD. If the sled you are pulling is like the ones in and around Ohio, WV, IN, PA- then you might not even move it that far.

 

What kid of temps did those run? being in mountain country im worried bout my EGT's, and lots of smoke. Dont get me wrong I love makin smoke, but only when I want to.
The clutch is a LuK Pro Gold Performance, the next up from stock. The other one they offer is said to work only 2 ways, either engaged, or disengaged. so for haul'n horses thats not an option.
Plus its cheaper for me cause thats with my company discount, I work for a major trucking company and we get lotsa parts from my local Fleetpride.
Here is a link to the one im looking at:
http://www.lukclutch.com/catalog/det...placement=5.9L

Oh and about moving the sled, that is by far no issue. Ive seen 2 4.3L s-10 pickup, and a blazer, and a newer ranger pull it!

 

Good luck man.

 

That's the clutch I have, and if you put the wood to it by shifting with a sled behind you it will smoke. I'm pretty sure you would never get it to clamp if you start in second and build boost before you let out the clutch. Granted I have POD's, ground fuel cone and a fully turned up pump, but you are closer to sea level!

 

I agree totally.

 

$600 won't even come close to buying you a dual disc clutch they are about $2000-3000 once you figure in the billet input shaft. i was going to say block the rear end but you want as much weight on those rear tires as you can, a set of tractoin bars would help alot too. if i was you i wouldn't take a chance of tearing up a perfectly good truck. i think you should think about the dragstrip and not the sled

 

you're not going to move a sled w/ a 2wd

 

Please if you have nothing to add to the questions I asked dont bother posting something about not moving the stupid thing, i'll be sure to post a Video of a 2wheel drive pullin the sled weather its 50 feet or all the way home! thanks

ok, so on the suspension, I want to add an airride setup in the rear to fix bone jarring, and remove maybe 4 leaves per side, MAYBE 5? But with the bags that I want to use its a custom install so im not worried at all about lotsa weight on em. Ive also been thinking about traction bars/ladder bars, whatever, just to fix any axle wrap I may get.
Just curiousity, how the heck is a stock clutch (which is factory supplied LuK) equiped cummins 24, or 12 valve getting away with not roasting it?
I dont know what the initial rolling weight is but even if you dont try to build boost right off the line it isnt hard at all with an HTT stage 3 to get boost quite quickly in the 1st gens. Id just get it moving then roll into the throttle.

Im all new to actually hookin up so I dont have a clue with a truck that someone hasent dumped thousands of dollars into to pull a sled competitivly.
Thanks for the info guys!

 

Air bags are no good for sled pulling they are used to make a more comfertable ride I would stay with the springs the only way that you will hop is if you have too much traction and I dont think that will be an issue, tractions bars would be a neccesity and you would want as much weight in the rear as possible.