LUKE-MM-PULLER

I built my stops and bars yesterday. If the bars dont hold up I can beef them up yet. So what do ya think

WUnderwood

looks good!

LUKE-MM-PULLER

Hopefully now I will own that ford that beat me at the last 2 pulls.

03dodgeoffroad1

so is the u bolt going to be able to hold all the power??? other than that i like the setup

LUKE-MM-PULLER

I'm pretty sure it will, if it doesent I'll figure out a way to move them if I have to. they are bolted to front and back bolts.

JDGnut

There's going to be a lot of tension on that setup, because of the bars being attached solid to the axle.. (not being able to pivot.).. If you want to add a pivoting joint you can weld to the bottom of the axle holders.. (easy to remove without much work.) Most that go with a solid axle mount for street driving, have a pivoting shackle at the front.. for pulling, most that mount solid to the axle, with have an attaching point above and below the axle.
Everyone has their own pinion... Most single bars have a pivot joint at both ends.
In time you might want to spread the load a little more along the frame.. some have seen the frames start to crack when the attaching point it small..

I like the square tubing, looks good.. Mine are sitting on the shop floor...

I think the block will do the job...

Bryan

LUKE-MM-PULLER

I might be wrong but wouldn't a pivot point at both ends allow axle wrap to occur. I figured that buy attaching in the front and back of the axle it would be the same as attaching from the top and bottom. what worries me is that the tube might bend, I guess I'll find out saturday nite when I pull again. Theres always room for improvments.

PourinDiesel

You need a pivot at both ends other wise your axle is going to curl upward and break parts PERIOD (mostly while on the street). Pulling blocked with that bar should be ok but you'll break a pinion, u joints etc on the street with no rear pivot.

The way you have it setup now will not allow for the axle to correctly articulate when the axle moves anywhere from the home position.

CTD03

shouldnt they work at the track and if he takes them off befor he drive it out on the street he should be fine

my friend has a similar setup and nothing is breaking but he uses both the u-bolt instead of just one

good luck keep posted how they do

JDGnut

Luke, the solid mounts will work.. but most attach above and below the axle because of the force created by this style of bar. Its basically trying to work like a swing arm on motorcyle or fourwheeler.. but the spring is still attached which is what can create the binding.
If you have a pivot joint at both ends.. its trying to work like a 4 link, using the spring as the top bar.. (which can still bind up) the bottom bar is keeping the axle from moving (twisting) forward under the pull. With blocks (or good springs) this usually work pretty good.

If you want to see what happens, strap the rear of the truck down.. we usually do this when the truck is on the trailer. And watch the bars, springs, pinion angle... You don't have the big load of the rotation of the axle.. I guess you could start easying out of the clutch to see what's going to happen?? (never tried that.)

Like I said.. everyone going to have an opinion on how they should be built.. I'll send you a PM....
Bryan

LUKE-MM-PULLER

The pictures might not show it but I'm using both U-bolts.