Best Year For 800 To 1000 Rwhp
#1
Best Year To Use To Build 800 To 1000 Rwhp
[B][I]What would be the best year Cummins motor to start with to make 800 to 1000rwhp cost wise,durability wise.It would still be a daily driver & drag truck. I'm about at the point to heev-ho the 7.3.For the time & money spent on the setup could have had a Cummins.What point do you need other rods,main girdle or does fireringed,head studs,mainstuds,valve springs as far as hard parts enough to get you there.Of course it would have whatever twins needed to get there & injectors by whoever needed.As far as buying a install kit is the Fordcummins.com kit a good kit to have?Thanks for the info!!CP
#3
unless you hit the lottery I think it would be more realistic to shoot for those numbers rear wheel TQ, you'll be surprised at what that can do for you and still be plenty streetable. flame on but good gawd do you realize how much you are asking for? fire rings cam injectors twins water meth not to mention the electronic gadgets /boxes to run it all and pumps lines fittings to deliver it all.
#4
Jim Fulmer drives a 98 12V that is a streetable truck and has dynoed into the 870rwhp area and thats just with Diesel and Water Injection NO GIGGLE GAS.
He has some large twin turbos and alot of fuel.
He has some large twin turbos and alot of fuel.
#6
I always heard that 98 was the year,Mad Dog had told me that a year ago.I was wondering if there was a stronger or easier year to max out the power.I always thought that some fuel & big twins would get you to 800 fairly easy
#7
800's never "easy!!" It takes a lot of knowledge to tune a 12v to that power level and keep it streetable! I'm finally at half of 800hp, and still no problems, though Should be bolting on another 100 or so HP this weekend...maybe more if the head gasket holds up for a bit!
Also, the 24v's can get over 800 with N2O now, too!
JMHO,
Chris
Also, the 24v's can get over 800 with N2O now, too!
JMHO,
Chris
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#8
800 hp aint easy but it ain't hard, just expensive. Good pump, billet cam, cut pistons, good flowing head/ valve train, medium size set of twins and good injectors. Any motor with the 913 pump will do
#9
Originally Posted by 24valvepuller
800 hp aint easy but it ain't hard, just expensive. Good pump, billet cam, cut pistons, good flowing head/ valve train, medium size set of twins and good injectors. Any motor with the 913 pump will do
#11
DART505:
These guys are all giving you some good advice!
To add a little to what DTR Member "24valvepuller" has already told you the 913 or (older name "215" P-7100) came on 96-98.5 12 valve Dodge CTD manual transmission trucks (5 speed NV4500's) with the "215" H.P. Ratings. The 96-98.5 12 valve automatics have the 180 H.P. "rated" P-7100 fuel pumps. Prior to 1996, the P-7100 pumps were "rated" at 160 H.P. You asked about the "cut pistons." Usually, that is done to allow room for the valves (valve relief) after a "hotter" camshaft is installed. At least that is why it was done on my 1996, although I am also running "lower compression" pistons to keep some of the heat down! I HIGHLY recommend the 14mm studs and firerings if you are aiming at getting to 800 H.P.! In order to run the 14mm studs, your Cummins block has to be machined to make them fit. The smalller 12mm studs will go into the stock sized headbolt holes, but IMO, are not as strong as the 14mm studs and firerings. The firering "grooves" are also machined (mine are in the block itself) at the top of the cylinder holes. When I first got my newly built engine back from Scheid Diesel I was hitting 100lbs. of boost, the truck ran fine, I have had no problems with that, however, I have since reduced that boost down to around 70-75lbs. using a different top charger (wastegated) and also am aftermarket exhaust wastegate. I want and need the "longer term reliability"
since I drive the truck on the street.
As "24valvepuller" said, "it isn't that hard, just expensive!" Hope this has helped you some.
Good luck to you!
--------
John_P
These guys are all giving you some good advice!
To add a little to what DTR Member "24valvepuller" has already told you the 913 or (older name "215" P-7100) came on 96-98.5 12 valve Dodge CTD manual transmission trucks (5 speed NV4500's) with the "215" H.P. Ratings. The 96-98.5 12 valve automatics have the 180 H.P. "rated" P-7100 fuel pumps. Prior to 1996, the P-7100 pumps were "rated" at 160 H.P. You asked about the "cut pistons." Usually, that is done to allow room for the valves (valve relief) after a "hotter" camshaft is installed. At least that is why it was done on my 1996, although I am also running "lower compression" pistons to keep some of the heat down! I HIGHLY recommend the 14mm studs and firerings if you are aiming at getting to 800 H.P.! In order to run the 14mm studs, your Cummins block has to be machined to make them fit. The smalller 12mm studs will go into the stock sized headbolt holes, but IMO, are not as strong as the 14mm studs and firerings. The firering "grooves" are also machined (mine are in the block itself) at the top of the cylinder holes. When I first got my newly built engine back from Scheid Diesel I was hitting 100lbs. of boost, the truck ran fine, I have had no problems with that, however, I have since reduced that boost down to around 70-75lbs. using a different top charger (wastegated) and also am aftermarket exhaust wastegate. I want and need the "longer term reliability"
since I drive the truck on the street.
As "24valvepuller" said, "it isn't that hard, just expensive!" Hope this has helped you some.
Good luck to you!
--------
John_P
#12
I am so DEEP in my drive train I don't know what I will do.Hopefully the twin setup I am doing will make me happy for a few weeks .I have plenty of fuel now & had a GT42R turbo (5" intake & 4 1/2" exhaust)but still had 1900+ EGT's!I think my cam grind is a POS! Everyone using the turbo & injector size I had would make 60psi boost + I make 46.I am hoping the extra air will help!!
#13
Adam from Winspeed in martinez dyno'd at like 780+ hp. His truck is an 01 i think Mods include: USB Bell SINGLE turbo, edge drag comp, ats manifold, studs, afe stage 2, large bullydog injectors, port and polished head, full billit trans, FASS, 6 inch exhaust and nitrous as far as i know...truck runs somewhere in the 11s and he drives it every single day.
#14
Dart if you ditch that motor its going to be the second time its been replaced by a cummins, I guess now duramax, anyways you are going to want the 215 horse pump. Both the 913 and 887 pumps are 215 but the 913 is the later model with a different cam profile, and its slightly better. These #s come from the bosch number on the pump, 0 402 736 913, 0 402 736 887 ect ect. Either way you go the pumps going to need to be put on a stand. You are in the powerstroke world like I am so $3100 for a race pump and $1200 a set of injectors to match the pump form Industrial Injection (they have prices on website thats why I used them for example) isnt bad at all to give you all the fuel you need. Add a turbo or two and the engine machine work, looks like 800hp is do-able for around $10k, how much you got in your motor, I know what mine cost, out with the 8 in with the 6
#15
Probably 20k not counting the stage V trans & custom converter.I bought & sold 5 sets of injectors at a major loss,just sold the turbo off of it for 1/2 of what Dave charges to do a kit & just bought 2 brand new turbos for twins that is probably going to cost me $5000 before the key is turned again I started with a new 03 d-max & got rid of it & got a Excursion which I love & been trying to get back to the d-max performance sence then I should have just turboed the Busa when I had it & I have a 10.40 street car already but what has been spent on this truck I could have had my car in the 7's!!! This truck drinks champagne as if it were cheap beer.