PourinDiesel

I thought I already answered that question? See post #13

J Lent

Sorry. What I meant was...I watched your videos & it was hard to tell the difference in distance between the longer/shorter blocks. Have you noticed a substancial amount of difference in distance just by adding that extra 1" of block. I'm sorry for all the questions, just trying to learn.

PourinDiesel

Think of it like this: the sled weighs say 40,000 lbs it is a lot easier to drag it when it clears the front of the dirt rather than trying to drag a 1" plow that weighs 40,000 lbs through the dirt.

PourinDiesel

Think of it like this: the sled weighs say 40,000 lbs it is a lot easier to drag it when it clears the front of the dirt rather than trying to drag a 1" plow that weighs 40,000 lbs through the dirt.

tristan21

Justin that looks like schedule 40 4" pipe on the front and maybe sched 40 8" on the back right?

Did you have to drill and tap your rear end for the rear brace?

Do they not require a driveshaft hoop with that setup? Or is that just a drag racing set up where you need the hoop?

I havnt really checked the rules much yet I suppose that should come first, eh?

Also I can assume the other and of each driveshaft doesnt require anything?

Sorry for all the stupid ?'s but I just needed some info since im looking to pull pretty soon.

PourinDiesel

I'll measure the pipes this weekend sometime and get back with you on it. Really the rear can could stand to be smaller. The front pipe is just right though.

Yes, drilled and tapped the rear end housing for 3/8" bolt. I never got around to drilling and tapping a second hold but I need to (I now have a drain plug for the rear end!LOL!)

Best thing to do is check your rules and see what is considered a driveshaft loop or u joint shield. You might even print off pictures and ask your tech official.
My loops are DHRA and NADM legal for the 2.8 classes (last time I checked).