Well, exams are done, so I've got time to plug away at this project again.

I need to find a longer turbo oil drain line - the one that drains to the pan. Anyone know where can I get one? Same as your suggestions as for the pressured oil line? I'm going go have to remove the stock one anyways because the bolts that fit the turbo won't fit through the flange of the drain line.

Secondly, how does that drain line come off the pan? Its impossible to get a good look at it ! It will turn. Do I need to drain the oil before removing it?

Thirdly, the SB66 is mechanically wastegated i.e., there is nothing to plug the wastegate sensor into. The guy I bought it from indicated that I just need to plug the factory wastegate solenoid back in. Does that mean I somehow have to remove it from the stock turbo? (sorry if that is a dumb question, I couldn't see any easy way to do this). Another thread mentioned using a 150 ohm resistor - does that mean just connecting the 2 wires on the wastegate sensor with a resistor?? Thoroughbred Diesel sells a wastegate sensor fooler for $40 US but I'll skip that if I can use a resistor. I already have an MP-8 that boost fools the MAP.

Fourthly, I'd like to adjust the wastegate actuator. Any tips on doing this? The only info I found was for a mercedes turbo, but is this the basic principle?

http://www.serenitysys.com/MB/Servic...617_turbo_.htm

Thanks for any input guys. I really gotta get my truck going again so I can show up at the meet later next month! D

 

Not completely familiar with the 3rd gen stuff, so hopefully the 2nd gen knowledge will transfer over.

The drain line connects to a piece of 7/8" silicone hose that goes into the nipple in the block. Just a hose clamp holding it on. So by rights, you should be able to just put in a longer piece of hose. You will likely have to use 3/4" line unless you can get longer pieces from Cummins. I still haven't found a source for 7/8 hose. Make sure its oil rated.

If that fails, source automotive sells a flexible drain line that you can make fit how you like. Flange is thinner than the stock one.

On the II turbos, they use a boost elbow to adjust the wastegate. Just an allen head set screw in a brass elbow. Turn it in to increase boost, turn it out to decrease.

 

You are 100% correct Tate.

 

The oil drain tube just pulls out of the block and the oil doesn't need to be drained. Is the turbo clocked in the right position? I know a HTT62 turbo still uses the factory drain tube, but maybe it wont fit with the SB66. You can probably just put a resistor in the factory plug. With the HTT turbo came a plug that connected into the factory wastegate connection. I don't know what the resistance is but if I get a chance I will measure it for you. To adjust the wastegate if it doesnt have the elbow with the allen key you will need to take the c-clip off the actuator arm and adjust it shorter for more boost and longer for the waste gate to open sooner.

I just seen your using an ATS manifold. Is it an 2nd or 3rd gen manifold? It might be easiest to go with the 2nd gen drain tube setup so you can cut the hose to length. I dont know if you could just cut your drain tube and put a hose on it or not.

 

Man you guys are truly a topnotch source of info, thanks so much . So basically if I understand this correctly the metal tube is just a sheath covering a silicone hose with a clamp...I didn't want to mess with it for fear of oil spilling out. Then again, if it is a drain I suppose it makes sense that it lies above the oil line

I bought the turbo second hand and I believe it is clocked correctly. And yes, normally a wastegate sensor fooler is part of the kit - industrial injection does make one and I'm wondering if I absolutely need to buy it.

Its a third gen manifold currently getting some shiny treatment at Impact coatings. Hopefully the fabrication shop next door can enlarge the bolt holes a shade too, but I dunno. My mechanic tried with no success, that is some hard stuff.

Unfortunately I am too much of a newbie to know my second-gen drain tube setups from my third gen drain tube setups

 

From what I have seen the 2nd gen use metal tubes on the turbo and block with a hose in between them. The third gen is a flexible metal tube that connect straight from the turbo to the block with no hose at all. I thought maybe it was a 2nd gen manifold and that was why nothing is fitting properly. I really doubt you need to by the wastegate fooler from II as I am sure its just a resistor in there.

 

Ohhhhhh, that is because I forgot to mention my other recent thread here when I was having trouble finding a shorter pressurized oil line - the exhaust manifold is third-hand used off an 11-second race truck (not the turbo, its only second-hand!) and it's a little shrunk. I took Tates advice and took a deadblow mallet to it. I'm not sure if I straightened it out but it sure made me feel better. . When Impact ceramic coats the manifold the two pieces will probably fall apart - at least they said thats what often happens.

 

the silver bullet only uses the allen key for a wastegate. As for boost fooling, your MP8 may provide the boost fooling for you. It wont hurt anything to try it out, worst case scenario you buy a quad boost fooler for 40 bucks and call it a day

 

Thats good to know, so is the arm not adjustable then or does it use a diffrent wastegate setup?

 

Yeah, just an elbow, turn it all the way in, let it buck... works good, unless you run NOS, then,, not so good,, lol

 

Not that you'd know anything about that.

 

LOL,, yeah, small ammount of experience there