morkable

No problem anything to help you out!

Kevin

19Fury69

I think I heard the guy at Cummins say something like 200 for the HG, may be different for 3rd gens.

Tate

Jamie, start on the very center bolt/stud, and work your way out in a spiral pattern. Jamie, is this for your rig? How far are you looking to go? I don't see why pulling one bolt and installing a stud would be a bad way if you're not gonna push it as much as Kevin has.

Kevin, the 625's are still a 12mm stud, so no drill and tap. Down side to those ones is since you are torqueing them like a 14mm, sometimes the threads in the block go *pop*. Fairly rare though.

bigd450

Thats what we did on my bro's third gen. Its been holding 70psi daily.

dodgediesel

I'm just curious on the torque pattern doing it that way. It is on my 07 5.9L. I would like to do studs for cheap insurance but I'm not sure which way to do it?? I'm shooting for 600HP and that's plenty for now.

1-5-3-6-2-4

I installed my arp studs one at a time with the stock HG. lasted for about year before i upped the boost over 50psi, and wasted the HG. thats when I got orings. I paid 150 for the thick HG through Cummins WC.

i suck at computer graphics so you have to imagine the swirl pattern for torquing the heads. same as any head torque pattern. start in the center and work your way to the outside alternating side to side. you have to remove the rockers to do the intake side line.

1-5-3-6-2-4

here the number pattern out of the service manual.

Mike Holmen

Just remove one bolt at a time and install the new stud. I've done it that way. I followed the book and used their pattern. Jamie, how much boost you going to? A 3rd gen with studs should be ok for 50ish psi without o-rings.

Kev, torque up the studs really good. I use 135 ft*lbs on mine. Head gaskets are easy and cost more than $60 bucks. There are a few more gaskets needed than just the head gasket. I like putting in new gasket to get a decent seal for the air intake horn and the turbo turbine flange.

$200 bones is smoken deal. The cheapest I got mine done for $350.

morkable

I was pushing 80psi without orings... they will take alot,, but I did have studs though

rage_blue

When you do the studs, watch out for the rear most stud near the back of the head, it likes to stick up a hair to far and hit the rocker box and keep it from sealing, a little work with a file or burr on the rocker box will fix it. Oh and the long studs go on the pass side of the head, sould be 6 or 7 of them.

Mike Holmen

I know you guys have newer stuff than me but I had to trim some of my valve cover material for the front stud next to the thermostat. The back ones are buggers to put in. I haven't even put in my plugs for the cab.

1-5-3-6-2-4

if you bottom tap the holes like you should anyways they clear no problem. the stud shouldn't be tight in the block before you torque the nut. stud should only be finger tight. had to use a 48" pry bar on the cowl to get that "little" extra clearance to get the back 1 or 2 down.