can you buy the wire for O-Ringing seperate?
12-17-2008, 03:42 PM
#16
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o ring will add $375 according to garretts drop down boxes on the web site.I have yet to see about shipping the head from source in oregon to CT. But at least it got to Source for free.
12-18-2008, 09:29 AM
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Hey guys, I am going to watch this thread pretty close. I am buying a set of "Holmanator" twins and I think I am going to need something better than the almost 11 year old stock headgasket on my 98. So when everyone gets the best shipping prices and best quality of work at a decent price all figured out, please post! I am to busy when on shift to do the research and to lazy on my days off to do it! LOL Thanks. And I do prefer to do most of it in Canada if possible. Then I always know my price.
12-18-2008, 10:25 AM
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Couldn't find the new topic button...just a quick question. Just got the truck home from McMurray where it's been for a year. I want to change the oil but may hold off if it gets changed anyway during a head install. Will the installer HAVE to change oil during a head install. I know its probalby a good idea. The truck needs new oil now though. I'd hate to change it now only to have the installer dump the 60.00 or so bucks of fresh synthetic I may put in.
12-25-2008, 04:29 AM
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SOurce quoted me 140 to ship 2 boxes to edmonton through UPS. The head in one and injectors and studs in the other.. It sounds like a good deal but I'll see if CT can better it anyway
12-25-2008, 06:07 PM
#20
Top's Younger Twin
It cost me 200.00 total for the work with .040 wire and .010 protrusion, I used a stock head gasket on the 2001 Ram. Had PSI over 65 and no issues. Square shoulder groove. Had a speed shop do it here in Regina.
Lookin at a new project idea. Found a 99 4x2 2500 ST with 66,000 KMS on it...sitting covered in snow down the lane from here. Saw the guy out there this morning so I stopped and asked what the scoop was...has not run for 3 yrs...trans is cooked and engine will not fire.
Truck is in REAL good shape otherwise. My thinkin is its the VP and lift pump...the trans is an easy fix.
Scotty
Lookin at a new project idea. Found a 99 4x2 2500 ST with 66,000 KMS on it...sitting covered in snow down the lane from here. Saw the guy out there this morning so I stopped and asked what the scoop was...has not run for 3 yrs...trans is cooked and engine will not fire.
Truck is in REAL good shape otherwise. My thinkin is its the VP and lift pump...the trans is an easy fix.
Scotty
12-26-2008, 10:26 PM
#22
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Which head studs you using Scotty? I had a set of o-ring set at 0.010 protrusion. You have to really crank on those studs to get them to seal-up. Kev, go with the higher torque rating of ARP's at least. They have a set that will allow you to crank up to 165ft*lbs. Do lots of re-torque, Kev. I went thru 3 or 4 head gasket last year, I can't remember correctly. To me its a quick afternoon job, so I did a few things different each time. What worked for me on the 0.010" is just crank them up as tight as you can. My last o-ringed head was easier to seal-up but I only go to 80ish psi. Kev should be over 100ish on a decent set of twins, then add in heavy squeeze of NOS. Lots of cylinder pressure, but if you can seal it up. Sweet ride buddy.
12-26-2008, 11:42 PM
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ARP 625s are in the $1200 range, thats a lot of coin for a set of studs. I think you'd be fine on the standard ARP's for now. You could blow a couple head gaskets for the price of those. I'd take a 'wait and see' approach before dropping that much on studs. JMO.
12-26-2008, 11:48 PM
#25
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And dont you have to drill and tap to run the 625's?
Tate, Scotty gave me the address and phone number for this company that did his head in Regina. He gives them the thumbs up, what do you think,, maybe see what they can do before we go after the Kelowna one?
Tate, Scotty gave me the address and phone number for this company that did his head in Regina. He gives them the thumbs up, what do you think,, maybe see what they can do before we go after the Kelowna one?
12-26-2008, 11:51 PM
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Excuse the hiijack but does anyone have directions on how to change over to regular ARP head studs one by one on a 3rd gen with torque pattern and specs?
12-26-2008, 11:59 PM
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I can get you that,, but to be honest Jamie, I dont recommend doing it that way.. I personally dont think it can be a good thing to do that,, I personally lifted the head put the studs in and a new HG.
JMHO... and I also wouldnt get worried about bottom tapping either
Kevin
JMHO... and I also wouldnt get worried about bottom tapping either
Kevin
12-27-2008, 12:03 AM
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I supose it's not much for a new head gasket anyways? Just never changed one unless it was blown or such. Does a guy just remove the head, clean up both surfaces and put it all back together or does a guy have to do any head machine work if only for a head stud upgrade. Did that make any sense???