Jim Lane

What is the fluid capacity for the A-727 transmission?

How much fluid (Dexron III?) will be in the:
Pan =
Converter =
Cooling Lines =

Is there a drain plug on the torque converter?

Transmission Filter P.N.?

Mine is doing the strange intermittent slipping like it did almost 1 year ago, it will feel like it is low on fluid or a piston is sticking in the valve body and then it will catch and then it will run fine. It will only slip for maybe a second or two and then run normal, I also thought that maybe the selector wasn't in gear.

Last year I had it serviced and the insides looked normal for the miles that I had in it so they replaced the filter, fluid and added some friction modifier to it and that fixed the problem until a year later.

I checked the fluid and it is not nice and red but kind of a dark red but it does not smell burnt, just looks well used.

I am sure that the torque converter generates quite a few kilowatts of heat with all of the extra torque I am producing.

I am going to install a Temp gauge in the hot line in the near future.

I figure that I will drain the transmission through the dipstick tube, disconnect the cooling lines from the transmission and blow out the fluid with compressed air leaving the converter that I am not sure of if it will have a plug.

At this time I am planning on installing an external spin on filter in the cooler line since the internal filter only catches small animals to keep the fluid clean.

Can the transmission be safely drained by disconnecting the line from the cooler and starting the engine then shifting into gear as long as it is shut off when the flow stops?

So how many quarts should refill the system?

Thanks Jim

wannadiesel

The FSM says 8.4 qts. If you were to do a complete rebuild it would probably take 12-14 qts to refill the system.

AFAIK there is no drain plug on the converter. If you really want to drain it, put a stop collar on a drill bit so you only drill through the outer shell (1/8" deep ought to break through) and drill a hole in the bottom. Once it stops dripping, plug the hole with a blind rivet. Use a dab of RTV on the back flange of the rivet to ensure there are no leaks.

ATP B42, Wix 58707, Fram FT1039A

I guess you want to suction the fluid out through the dipstick tube? I'd want to drop the pan to see how much mud is in there. When the pan is down, install a drain plug so next time it's not so messy. Help! 65128 or Oil-tite 65241 will get you a universal drain plug.

Does it do it's slipping thing in all forward gears? How's reverse?

Pumping it dry would be OK in neutral, just kill it as soon as flow stops. I don't think you'll get much more out than if you just dropped the pan and blew out the cooler lines though.

I'd buy a case. Dexron III or ATF +3.

Richie O

Does the hot side cooling line come from the converter? Could one drain the oil and change the filter, refill, unhook return line, run truck in nuetral til fluid looks clean? Kinda a cheap mans flush.

Crazy Matt

Coulda hurt the servo and band for 3rd gear like I just did.
My trans worked great tho.

It only cost me $300 to fix it, Then the converter was rebuilt/ mod'd for lower stall.

Crossy's son

I thought the Mopar transmissions needed special fluid like ATF+4??

Thats what it says on the bottle "designed for chrysler transmissions"

i think you should drop the pan, put a drainplug in the pan and install a Transgo shift kit. It really makes the 727's shift much better. we had one in the 91 and it go rid of the CONVERTER DRAINBACK issue as well because the converter will fill up in Park with the transgo. Stock the conv. will only fill in neutral or forward gears.

you know when you have to put it in N in the morning and let it idle for 20 seconds so it'll move.

jughead

type F will work great in all the 3 speed autos if the dont have a converter clutch. i have used it in all my 3 speeds since 1967 with absolutely no problems.

Jim Lane

Do you think that any brand is more heavy duty that the other?
How about any friction modifiers?

Jim

Jim Lane

When I had it rebuilt by The Trans Shop about 5 years ago they already installed a TransGo Shift Kit did some work on the clutch pack and installed a Low Stall converter.

I am planning to install a drain plug in the pan.

I just am looking for a way to add a lock-up converter so I can have an exhaust brake.

At least without spending a fortune or adding a weak link.

Jim

Ace

727s in the cars have a drain plug on the converter - 1/8npt pipe plug. The one in my New Yorker takes 3 1/2 gallons with a deep pan. I used Dex VI to service it about a month ago. I would not recommend a shift kit on a high mileage 727 unless you are prepared for a full rebuild in the near future. (looks like me and Jim were typing at the same time!) The kits will run great and extend the life of a healthy trans, but also hasten the demise of a worn one.

If you put a filter in the cooler line, make sure to use one of two approaches: Either a head/filter combo with a low pressure bypass or: a dedicated bypass circuit. The reason being is if the filter clogs for any reason, you don't want to cook the tranny. Here's some pics of the dedicated bypass tranny filter circuit I did on a 3rd Gen:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_11.JPG
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_12.JPG
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_13.JPG

Filter innie comes from the pressure line, filter outie goes to the cooler return line. Pretty simple.

Greed 93

there is a way to make yours lock-up find the book called the 727 builders hand book online or a like barnes and noble it has the list of part numbers and procedures i think its just input shaft vb and converter.

Jim Lane

What ratio of the fluid gets filtered with your bypass?

Doesn't your 3rd Gen transmission have a Spin On filter inside the pan already?

Did you use regular High Temp. Hydraulic hose on your install?

Ace

Yes Jim, that's what I mean by the first option (head/filter combo). Not all common spin on filters have an internal bypass. The GM models like I pictured on mine do not.
It's hard to say, but adjustable by the size of a restrictor orifice in the line. I started at .010, and it seemed to take too long to warm up, so I went to a .035 hole. Slower is better for filtering, but there's a tradeoff there somewhere. Where, I don't know. What you want to avoid is diverting too much flow from the cooler and impacting cooling. It's a 1/2" line, so I'd say a .035 flow control orifice is insignificant. WAG maybe one qt./minute, as opposed to 10 gal/min. flowing through the cooler? Just a WAG.
No, that would be the new 68RFE 6sp that started with the 6.7s. That blue one there is one of the last of the 5.9's, with also one of the last of the 727-based trannys, a 48RE. It uses the same internal filter as yours. And that internal filter is not a particularly great filter.
Yep, nothing fancy, just plain old hydraulic hose - but the good Weatherhead stuff, 200psi rated.

dadijohnson

Here is the system I used to change ALL the oil in the tranny system.

1. remove pan, change filter, clean and reinstal pan.
2. put 3 quarts of fresh +4 mopar oil in.
3. diconect the return line from the cooler up front. clamp on a piece of clear tubing. put end of tubing in 3 qt. container.
4. start engine, put trany in N. fill 3 qt. container, shut engine off.
5. perform step #2&4 untill you have removed & replaced 12 qt.s.
6. replace return line onto the cooler.

you now have a complete oil change in your tranny. and you have not run the tranny with the system dry.

use the +4 fluid (available at wally world) for a happy tranny that doesn't need Dr. appointments this oil will servive higher temps than dextron.

when I did mine I installed a deep pan with cooling tubes, so I did more than 3 qt.s on each exchange.

Ace

Dexron VI Viscosity Index Improvers have greater shear stability than ATF+4.