sad thing is that EPA does not care 1 red cent about how much fuel is being used.

 

Ironic how using more fuel is better for the environment, isn't it? That's it- I'm going to do my part to help save the polar bears by doing the deletes!

 

best thing I have done so far.

 

Here is something that adds to my confusion....

If i do just the DPF, EGR delete vs the CAT, DPF and EGR delete, the cost difference is only $50....

How much more involved is the CAT delete... do I need to drop the tranny? T-case? or just the Crossmember?

I don't need 8 hrs worth of work to drive five miles for a 15 minute inspection....

Any suggestions on this?

Thanks

 

Just wanted to share....

Last night I topped off my tank.

I had driven about 210 miles. I topped off with 17.716 gallons

11.8 mpg..... this was with city driving... the Lie-O-Meter said i had gotten 12.8 average....

Cant wait to order the deletes...

my truck goes into the dealer ship next week to get a new power steering pump and u-joints.... after that ....I plan on ordering the parts.

 

Thats what my truck got too, NOW 16/17 and 19/20 hwy









.

 

My buddy and I have it down to installing a minimaxx, dpf delete, downpipe, full egr delete and running in 2 hrs 20 minutes. drop the crossmember to get the down pipe out. support the trans/t-case with a jack. that way you can re-install everything if needed.

 

So to delete the CATs, and install down pipe, and remove crossmember, and support tranny....

Does this become a two man job?

with the difference in mileage gains between the two....is the full delete worth it?

 

you already have 4" exhaust so no need to go to anything bigger plus the factory muffler is a "see thru" muffler. get the down pipe which will delete the cat in the down pipe, and get the delete pipe which will delete the DPF and 2nd cat along with the sensors. keep the sensors in tact within the factory exhaust and store the parts in the garage. put all of your nuts, bolts, clamps ect in a gallon zip lock and in a box for futur use if the need ever arise. will have to drain the coolant to do the EGR system. The EGR cooler is known to leak, that is the primary reason (other than wanting it out of the engine bay to clean things up) that I got rid of mine.

 

You just need a chuck of 4in exhaust. Weld a 4 hole flange onto the end. The turbo down pipe, first cat can stay on. Basically you just need to remove the cat and dpf. 10-15 minutes of work. Mine just fell onto the ground with no issues. Took me 15-30 minutes to make my own delete pipe. To go back to stock its about 30 minutes of reinstalling the cat/dpf and hook-up the exhaust sensors. Takes about 15 minutes to get the computer to stock.

Removing the egr/egr cooler and turbo down pipe is optional. If you going to just use plates, I would just buy an air horn and find a 2nd gen manifold. There adapters to convert T3 to a T3I flange, or just drill the turbine housing for the T3 bolt pattern.

 

So let me see if i understand this correctly....

the DPF delete pipe will delete the 2nd (lower) CAT and the DPF?

 

yes

 

Thank you to all of you for all the information and answers to my questions.

It really helped me decide which set up to go with.

 

Since I have decided to pull the trigger, I have been looking at places to install the H&S Minimax in the cab.

I have the bench seat in the truck so on the consol is out of the question.

Could someone post a pic for give some ideas?

Also, what type of mileage are you seeing with leaving the upper CAT installed?

 

18-20mpg, get around 550-650 miles to a tank of fuel. I go in kilometer, 850-1000 km's per tank of fuel. The truck still sounds stock, way to quiet for me. I like the diesel rattle sound.