So all the boost you get of these new motors and turbos is 30 psi and then you have to do head studs.my 04.5 would hit 40 to 45 with mild tuning when i started getting 45 and 50 i did studs.Reason i am asking is i have 2012 i just thought they did better than that.

 

Same here, my 04 would pull 40+ psi no problem.

I need to go fishin for some whale tongue ASAP. Never heard of that so as soon as I get a few min's I will rip it out. Do I need to cut or does it just pull out?




.

 

Went back out today and played a little. Removing that "whale tongue" looking thing, if it didn't do anything else, made the truck sound much more profound. It will be short lived since the S&B should be shipping next week.

625 Head studs are on the list to get now. I decided to give oh I don't know about 60% or more of throttle on the on ramp and noticed the EGTs hit I think around 1400, wasn't really paying attention to the boost since the main sensor I had up was the Pyro. Other than the high EGT for about 2 seconds, I blew a lot of smoke --- great feeling. I do need to calm down with this so I don't get use to the power and find myself playing around when I head home in about a month --- I can see me stranded in the middle of no where with no cell service...not good.

Also on the list is the Raptor 150 pump and GDP MKII Big Line Kit or the AirDog or AirDog II...question though

Reading about the MKII and the AirDog, it seems the AirDog would actually be a better buy? I haven't looked at the cost, but rather the features. To those that run either of these, is one better than the other. It seems the AirDog would be better since it has two filters and appears to remove any air in the fuel as well.

Also, why would you need to leave the stock fuel filter in it's place and run either of the kits along side of it?

 

It just pulls out. You have to remove the short flexible tube between the top of the air box and the tube going to the turbo, then it just pulls right out...took just a couple minutes to do.

 

After reading your post again, I just had a heading smacking moment and realized how important replacing the head studs probably are. I think that just moved them up on the high priority list now.

 

Good Job on the 5min removal. That stupid "Secondary Filter Air Directional Thingy" is friggin useless. Anyway, 1st the AirDog is a great system and if you get one that will be perfectly sufficient. If you get the AirDog you can then remove your factory filter unit and go directly into the CP3 with no worries. There is no reason to filter through the AirDog and then into the stock filtration unit. As far as it being better, I think that is based on opinion. I think both kits are great and 2000% better than stock. 2nd, if you get the GDP MKII kit, leave the factory filter in place to clean up the big stuff and allow the MKII to filter down even finer. I opted to get the MKII kit on my truck when it had 300 miles on it. I then had time to regroup on the route I was taking the truck and decided the Raptor 150 would be a good addition to the set-up.

I do not claim to be the best advice giver on the perfect fuel system. I can tell you that both systems are super easy to install and alot of guys on here have both set-ups with extreme success. IN SHORT: If you want an "All in one" system then AirDog is what you want. If you want to clean the fuel immediately save a little money then do the MKII big line kit now, and the Raptor 100/150 once you save some money. AirDog kits and Raptor Pumps have the quickdisconnect line now so its much easier. Some say that the pushlock lines cause fluctuations in fuel pressure but not a problem for me cause I got push-lock. I trust them to seal better.

Headstuds are gonna set you back a good penny. Plus they are getting harder and harder to find because ARP can only manufacture them so fast. The install is not too bad. I downloaded the installation instructions from GDP's website and they were straightforward. If you have a good shop close to where you live with professionals then I would go that route. Guys that know our trucks and the Cummins engine will save you alot of stress. I was scared but it was not too bad. Cleaning up all the threads, ensuring the valves were set, and torqueing/re-torqueing was a little stressfull.

Hope this helps.

 

Just an FYI to everyone...

I am running on the wild setting on mild tuning.

I towed a load a cattle to get shipped this weekend.

Total beef and trailer i figured weighed around 9500 lbs. I was running between 70 and 80 for about 70 miles.

EGTs only increased to over 800 when I accelerated and then dropped down...

My average was about 760

I was very impressed with the way the truck handled the load even going up a rather steep hill.


NOW... with that said

are the headstuds a must? or only if you are going to be 'playing'????

 

HEADSTUDS: This is an easily argue instigation question. In my eyes they are a must. ESPECIALLY with deletes. Talk to any die hard CTD truck owner and it is most certainly a 1st to do. I am not a scientist but I can tell you that the specs on the stronger studs speak for themselves. Basically, once you do the studs the right way (625 Custom Aged) you will never have to do them again. The truck will last without them, and no you do not always have to be beating on it to blow the headgasket. If you drive the truck regularly and do not thrash it, they might go one day. But, with 625's installed correctly, you will not lift that head.

 

So what goes into replacing the head studs....

do you have to remove the head?

or can you replace the studs where it sits?

 

That question is debatable as well. My take on it is this, download the headstud installation PDF file that Richard has on his GDP site, read it, and make your decision.

I do not think you need to remove the head. (Neither do most people.)

 

Sorry for the late reply...family emergency brought me home early from training.

Thanks for the tips on the fuel system and head studs. I will continue to research and figure out a good plan of where I want to go with the truck. I like the idea of just getting rid of the factory filter all together, but then again, if the outcome is the same (or close), then I am all about saving a bit of money and going the MK II big line kit route. I don't know why, I tend to always go the more expensive route (thus the Black Maxx, when the Mini would have done the job). The Raptor pump is on the list to get when I decide on the filter.

Headstuds. I can't believe how much they are. WOW! But, it pays to save! You have talked me into getting this and I realize the importance of them and saving the heads, however this is something I will have to wait to do until after the holidays. Having 3 kids isn't cheap!

Driving home the last day and half I was able to really feel the difference with the tongue removed from the stock air box. It may just be me, but I think there was a bit of a difference. The sound was definitely more profound. I can't comment on the gas mileage as I wasn't very light on the gas pedal trying to get home. But, that is short lived as the S&B CAI came in Monday and I will try getting it installed in the next day or two.

Update on the boost and EGT's. I haven't updated to the aggressive turbo tune yet, so I am still running on the HOT tune. I was passing some drivers and at one point the boost hit 34psi. I didn't catch the EGTs as I was monitoring the boost and the max showed 34. On a later pass, I was monitoring the EGTs and they got up to 1453 and the Black Maxx started beeping. I haven't read into exactly what that means, other than it hit the default defueling level of 1450. I didn't notice a loss in power, but as soon as heard the beeping, I let off the throttle a bit to finish the pass. In comparison, with this tuner on HOT vs stock tuning, it takes less throttle input to accomplish nearly the same when the truck was stock. The truck is way more responsive.

With that being said, I may wait to run the mild aggressive turbo tuning until I get the parts do the upgrades, unless you still recommend it after my experience?

Thanks again for all your help! You have definitely brought to light many questions I have had.

 

1st, I completely understand how 3 kids can be a chore on their own. I got 3 girls and they all cost me a fortune. Especially during Halloween, it is like it's own holiday around my house.

As far as the tune, if you are going to keep driving hard maybe its best not to go with the aggressive turbo tuning right now. The H&S beeping..........Think of that as an H&S representative telling you that you are really close to cooking your engine and lifting the head. As I said before, do not run the "High" tunes at full throttle. They simply allow for better fuel economy due to less throttle application for more power. I strongly recommend not going over the "Mild" setting until you get more fuel upgrades and anything over 30 PSI makes me want studs. The only reason I say that is because I am super cautious. The studs are not cheap but there is a reason for that. THEY WORK. If they were (3) times the cost I would still get them.

I would continue to run the base tune and occassionally run "Mild" if you want to have fun.

Take plenty of photos to post on the S&B install. Also let me know if it throws any codes or if it has been worked out.

 

Mine are young, 6 and under (1 girl and 2 boys) so I haven't had to suffer to badly...but man...they are needy. I can imagine what it must be like with 3 girls.

I wasn't intentionally trying to drive hard, I just had to get home. I am typically an easy going driver. It completely makes since with what you said about the beeping. I am going to hold off on the aggressive turbo tuning. What I am going to do is experiment with the base tunes to see what I can achieve the most fuel economy from and leave it there until I can do the studs.

I also set the defuel perimeters to 1250 (from 1450) and turned the turbo defuel on and set to 30psi (if that should be lowered let me know). A new head or a new engine, definitely not an option right now. I am with you on the cost. $3K is better than $10K.

I look forward to the additional mods. After reading your sig, I may go ahead with the EGR/Cooler delete since I have the kit already from H&S, just need the time to do it.

As for the S&B. Pics will come! I read about the code issues. Hopefully they worked the kinks out since they delayed releasing it a few times.

 

A tap can be extended by using the appropriate size extension from your socket set. If it falls in the "in between" sizes a 12 pt socket can be used along with the length of extension needed then use a ratchet to turn it.

 

Dang fellas yall got a house full. Got 2 boys myself Aiden (6) and Conner (1)

6.7, you got off easy. When I did my 08 it was late at night, Worm had a couple of beers in him (I may have too) and we broke the tap off in the manifold....

Good times.