Delete EPA stuff without programmer?
#1
Delete EPA stuff without programmer?
I just bought a 2011 with the 6.7. Have owned 2 7.3 powerstrokes before, so some of this EPA stuff is new to me. I have researched this, and other, forums, and have figured out already that getting the best out of this motor really requires deleting the EGR, DPF and Nox systems. I think my dealer would be ok with all of that if I didn't add more power to the mix - obviously wouldn't expect them to fix any EPA stuff under warranty after I mess with it, but motor would be same power wise, and so would tranny. I am fine with that, but, from what I gather, there is basically no way to simply "fool" the computer into thinking those systems are in place and functioning without adding a programmer. Is that correct? Because, obviously, once you add the programmer, any motor or tranny warranty would be on your own dime. Can't you just make a plug for each of these items that tells the computer what it wants to know without programming it or adding power so it runs correctly without codes?
Incidentally, I unplugged my EGR as recommended here and there, and have since seen my avg MPG go up 2 miles per gallon to 15.9 from 13.9 with it hooked up. The only negative I have seen is the check engine light and my remote start only works for about 5 seconds now, then shuts back off.
Any thoughts would be appreciated since this is not only a new truck to me, but a new motor and other issues that I am unfamiliar with.
Spence
Incidentally, I unplugged my EGR as recommended here and there, and have since seen my avg MPG go up 2 miles per gallon to 15.9 from 13.9 with it hooked up. The only negative I have seen is the check engine light and my remote start only works for about 5 seconds now, then shuts back off.
Any thoughts would be appreciated since this is not only a new truck to me, but a new motor and other issues that I am unfamiliar with.
Spence
#2
You are correct in that you'll need a programmer to fool the system. No easy way around it. Before I did my deletes, I unplugged the egr and it netted me about 3 mpg better, but you do lose 40 hp at the wheels. For me, it was a trade I was willing to do.
#3
Bummer. Was hoping for an EPA fix without the programmer hassle. Doesn't really feel like I need more power, silly as that sounds.
Ok, round 2: What about coring a big hole down the middle of the DPF and NOx filters, leaving everything else hooked up? Will that freak the computer out or not? Seems like that would produce obvious benefits to exhaust flow and mileage without harming the motor or tranny. Being very "stealthy" in the process.
Thanks for the reply.
Spence
Ok, round 2: What about coring a big hole down the middle of the DPF and NOx filters, leaving everything else hooked up? Will that freak the computer out or not? Seems like that would produce obvious benefits to exhaust flow and mileage without harming the motor or tranny. Being very "stealthy" in the process.
Thanks for the reply.
Spence
#4
Chapter President
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 9,375
Likes: 7
From: misplaced Idahoan stuck in Albuquerque, Roughneckin on RIG 270
Bummer. Was hoping for an EPA fix without the programmer hassle. Doesn't really feel like I need more power, silly as that sounds.
Ok, round 2: What about coring a big hole down the middle of the DPF and NOx filters, leaving everything else hooked up? Will that freak the computer out or not? Seems like that would produce obvious benefits to exhaust flow and mileage without harming the motor or tranny. Being very "stealthy" in the process.
Thanks for the reply.
Spence
Ok, round 2: What about coring a big hole down the middle of the DPF and NOx filters, leaving everything else hooked up? Will that freak the computer out or not? Seems like that would produce obvious benefits to exhaust flow and mileage without harming the motor or tranny. Being very "stealthy" in the process.
Thanks for the reply.
Spence
#5
Bummer #2.
I had nothing but good using chips / programmers on my Ford's. As long as you don't drive like a mad man or use the highest setting towing the max all the time, I think these motors can very well take some modification. Not too worried about that, honestly, just don't really think I need more power in this rig. Seems like my old chipped 7.3, only without the chip. I don't like the idea of my new motor sucking on exhaust soot, or plugging up the exhaust either. Burning more fuel on the exhaust stroke to lower emmissions seems ridiculous on top of all that.
The truck and motor seems top notch, and, I guess, I would be happy just leaving it alone, but deleting all of these un necessary items makes a lot of sense to me.
Has anyone actually tried to just fool these sensors with resistors at the source? Effectively disabling them without the computer knowing about it.
I'm learning, thanks for the patience.
Spence
I had nothing but good using chips / programmers on my Ford's. As long as you don't drive like a mad man or use the highest setting towing the max all the time, I think these motors can very well take some modification. Not too worried about that, honestly, just don't really think I need more power in this rig. Seems like my old chipped 7.3, only without the chip. I don't like the idea of my new motor sucking on exhaust soot, or plugging up the exhaust either. Burning more fuel on the exhaust stroke to lower emmissions seems ridiculous on top of all that.
The truck and motor seems top notch, and, I guess, I would be happy just leaving it alone, but deleting all of these un necessary items makes a lot of sense to me.
Has anyone actually tried to just fool these sensors with resistors at the source? Effectively disabling them without the computer knowing about it.
I'm learning, thanks for the patience.
Spence
#6
There are ALLOT of smarts that went into the electronics on these trucks. You will not be able to fool the system. Just do the deletes, buy a Smarty or H&S and have the 6.7 thank you every time you start her.
#7
Chapter President
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 9,375
Likes: 7
From: misplaced Idahoan stuck in Albuquerque, Roughneckin on RIG 270
do a smarty jr then. Don't do the hollowed out deletes. just as an example, to replace the exhaust in this truck is OVER 7 GRAND!. so the $450 5" stainless turbo back system is the way to go and keep the emissions stuff in the shed for those just in case moments and just do a smarty jr since you are not wanting to add power. you can do the ME tunes on level 1 and forget about it.
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#8
In case you need a good 100% stock exhaust from a 2011, let me know. I have a full stock system and will never go back.
That being said, H&S has worked perfectly for me and I will never get rid of the 5" Flo Pro. Truck responds flawlessly.
My average daily driving gets me 15mpg while highway nets me about 18mpg. I have done over 40 Gas tanks and thats an average of all of them. Trust me, I have the receipts.
That being said, H&S has worked perfectly for me and I will never get rid of the 5" Flo Pro. Truck responds flawlessly.
My average daily driving gets me 15mpg while highway nets me about 18mpg. I have done over 40 Gas tanks and thats an average of all of them. Trust me, I have the receipts.
#9
It looks like a full delete, or leave it stock, are the only current choices. Just don't want to take the truck in for a radio problem or a rattle and have them erase the whole warranty when they hook it up and scan it. I don't think they really care about the EPA stuff as long as you aren't asking them to fix those parts, but they seem quite sensitive about the warranty when you add more fuel, then they start looking for reasons to deny everything after that. Electrical problem, must be your "chip", rattle, must be that aftermarket exhaust, you get the picture.
Anyone thought about using a spare ECU or whatever Dodge calls it?
If a delete is in order, would cat back be reasonable instead of turbo back? looks to be much easier to leave the cat, but does anyone know what the difference is leaving and taking it off as far as MPG or performance?
Thanks again.
Spence
Anyone thought about using a spare ECU or whatever Dodge calls it?
If a delete is in order, would cat back be reasonable instead of turbo back? looks to be much easier to leave the cat, but does anyone know what the difference is leaving and taking it off as far as MPG or performance?
Thanks again.
Spence
#10
Chapter President
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 9,375
Likes: 7
From: misplaced Idahoan stuck in Albuquerque, Roughneckin on RIG 270
It looks like a full delete, or leave it stock, are the only current choices. Just don't want to take the truck in for a radio problem or a rattle and have them erase the whole warranty when they hook it up and scan it. I don't think they really care about the EPA stuff as long as you aren't asking them to fix those parts, but they seem quite sensitive about the warranty when you add more fuel, then they start looking for reasons to deny everything after that. Electrical problem, must be your "chip", rattle, must be that aftermarket exhaust, you get the picture.
Anyone thought about using a spare ECU or whatever Dodge calls it?
If a delete is in order, would cat back be reasonable instead of turbo back? looks to be much easier to leave the cat, but does anyone know what the difference is leaving and taking it off as far as MPG or performance?
Thanks again.
Spence
Anyone thought about using a spare ECU or whatever Dodge calls it?
If a delete is in order, would cat back be reasonable instead of turbo back? looks to be much easier to leave the cat, but does anyone know what the difference is leaving and taking it off as far as MPG or performance?
Thanks again.
Spence
spare ECM is going to be super spendy first off. 2nd, you would have to have the dealer install it due to the injectors being serial number controlled via the ECM among other functions. Then you would have to find a "core" or pay the core charge. I would imagine it would be well over $2k after said and done.
hate being the bearer of bad news but working for a dealer and with these trucks for so long, kinda seen people do crazy things
#11
Yup, that is crazy, but that would help eliminate the above scenario just trying to get better MPG and remove the cancewr from the motor. Did not know the ECM was attached to the injectors. These are definately more advanced than just a few years ago. By the way, I don't blame any of this on Dodge, just wish there was a way to delete the EPA stuff, not add power, but run code free and "normal" after that. Hmm, may have to think this over a bit longer.
Thanks again everyone.
Spence
Thanks again everyone.
Spence
#12
Chapter President
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 9,375
Likes: 7
From: misplaced Idahoan stuck in Albuquerque, Roughneckin on RIG 270
It looks like a full delete, or leave it stock, are the only current choices. Just don't want to take the truck in for a radio problem or a rattle and have them erase the whole warranty when they hook it up and scan it. I don't think they really care about the EPA stuff as long as you aren't asking them to fix those parts, but they seem quite sensitive about the warranty when you add more fuel, then they start looking for reasons to deny everything after that. Electrical problem, must be your "chip", rattle, must be that aftermarket exhaust, you get the picture.
Anyone thought about using a spare ECU or whatever Dodge calls it?
If a delete is in order, would cat back be reasonable instead of turbo back? looks to be much easier to leave the cat, but does anyone know what the difference is leaving and taking it off as far as MPG or performance?
Thanks again.
Spence
Anyone thought about using a spare ECU or whatever Dodge calls it?
If a delete is in order, would cat back be reasonable instead of turbo back? looks to be much easier to leave the cat, but does anyone know what the difference is leaving and taking it off as far as MPG or performance?
Thanks again.
Spence
1. DPF back (does nothing for deletes, only "looks" cool)
2. dpf mid pipe (deleted dpf and cat but leaves factory tail section and downpipe)
3. dpf mid pipe and down pipe (deletes cat in downpipe, dpf and secondary
cat but leaves factory tail section)
4. Full on turbo back kit
only way to maintain the parts to be able to re-install at a later date if needed is to remove the trans cross member. You won't be able to get the downpipe out without cutting it in half OR remove the cross member.
What you could do is look at purchasing the complete exhaust from New2Diesel and gut his completely (downpipe cat is a total pain in the you know what to gut but doable) and install on your truck with all the sensors etc to have that "look" (just unplug the sensors when not at the dealer and plug in when at the dealer), install a block off plate (thin shim material) between your EGR valve and unplug, also unplug the TV connector.
this gives the "stock" appearance but actually deleted.
#13
What is the sound like on those deletes? I don't need a loud truck. A little more throat than stock would be perfect, but I am more intersted in freeing up the motor to do its thing than a certain sound.
As far as hooking up the sensors, if they are gutted, will they read correctly for the dealer? What about the block off plate, does that cause codes - I would guess it would if unplugged? Unplugging my EGR has seriously increased my MPG's by 2.5 per gallon already in mixed driving. That tells me all I need to know, just want to do it better so my remote start works and my CEL isn't on all the time, if possible. Truck runs fine without it, so far. Oh, what is the TV plug, I am not familiar with that.
Edit: TV - throttle valve, found it, thanks.
Spence
As far as hooking up the sensors, if they are gutted, will they read correctly for the dealer? What about the block off plate, does that cause codes - I would guess it would if unplugged? Unplugging my EGR has seriously increased my MPG's by 2.5 per gallon already in mixed driving. That tells me all I need to know, just want to do it better so my remote start works and my CEL isn't on all the time, if possible. Truck runs fine without it, so far. Oh, what is the TV plug, I am not familiar with that.
Edit: TV - throttle valve, found it, thanks.
Spence
#14
Chapter President
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 9,375
Likes: 7
From: misplaced Idahoan stuck in Albuquerque, Roughneckin on RIG 270
sensors won't read correctly. basically you are stuck between a rock and a hard place. there are no "chips" out there that are undetectable on the 6.7 like the 5.9 so even if you do the deletes with sensors in (which wont read correctly and will need a tuner to shut down those systems) the dealer will be able to find it.
i have used the flow pro many times and with their muffler it is a nice sound. deeper throated but not unbearable.
i have used the flow pro many times and with their muffler it is a nice sound. deeper throated but not unbearable.
#15
Well, I really appreciate you schooling me on these, thanks a bunch. I did enjoy the "chip" on my old 7.3, just made the truck work better all the way around, but this truck seems good in the power department to me. I haven't towed with it, and, trust me I know, power is addicting. Sooner or later I believe the delete will happen. Hard to do it on a brand new vehicle when anything could happen that might require warranty.
Any harm in just leaving the EGR unplugged and dealing with the CEL, in your opinion? Should I also unplug the TV then, or not?
Spence
Any harm in just leaving the EGR unplugged and dealing with the CEL, in your opinion? Should I also unplug the TV then, or not?
Spence