Kaster21

I just did a delete with the mini maxx race tuner on my truck. I need to know know what to upgrade so I don't break my transmission and my head gaskets. What all upgrades should I do? Also with it being stock at what parameter should I set my boost on so that way I don't have to replace factory studs until I can buy some better ones? I also have a S&B cold air intake as well...

Busboy

I have my boost set at 34psi coolant temp at 180F and PRE turbo EGT at 1250. Factory head bolts and only using mild with no timing and no "aggressive turbo but H&S Transmission Tune. Get rid of the crankcase vent into the intake if you haven't already.

Kaster21

Okay I can do that. Will my turbo be alright with the stock head studs until I can get them changed?

Busboy

The turbo is not affected by the head studs but the head gasket may be if you blow it from too much boost pressure. I have been using those settings since about 4000ml with only the stock head bolts but I make sure I always warm up the truck well. Some people recommend a re-torque of the bolts up to I think 125ft lbs look that up if you plan on doing this. There are pros and cons for and against head studs, I prefer to use bolts with the power I'm using.

Kaster21

So should I just upgrade the head gasket to a better one or go with the AFE 425 head studs and maybe upgrade the head gasket along with the AFE 425 head studs? Educate me on head studs and how they work if you don't mind please...

6.7L MegaCab

Congrats on your deletes. Well worth the investment. I agree with Busboy, except that I err on the side of caution because I run the aggressive turbo tune on hot. That is where I have seen the greatest MPG gain with the stock air intake (max to date is 22.7 on a road trip from NV to NM). I used to run the S&B intake until I realized my MPG was worse (mostly highway travel). I have my boost set to defuel at 28 and pre-turbo egt set to 1250 as well. Even with my defuel set at 28 I have seen it spike up to 38 before it defueled when I've stepped on it. The H&S transmission tune will make a huge difference and I highly recommend it as well. I have over 70k on the truck and deleted at 27k. Frequent oil analysis shows the engine is still running strong and the transmission shifts great.

As for the S&B intake there was definitely a noticeable difference from part to full throttle and way less smoke than the stock intake. I was interested more in the MPG, which is why I went back to stock. Every once in a while though I think about throwing it back in.

I still need to cut the crankcase line going to the intake and gut the filter in the valve cover.

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6.7L MegaCab

Nice truck too!

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capt.Ron

The upgraded head studs are stronger and I believe are meant to be torqued down tighter that the factory bolts. The idea is to change them out before the head gasket goes thus eliminating the need for replacing the gasket.
I have not done this but I am sure someone will chime in if my assumptions are wrong. I believe you can pull them one at a time so as not to disturb the head or gasket.

Kaster21

Ok Thank You! I want to be able to run the mini maxx maxed out on the highest setting so I just want to get all the upgrades to be able to do that. Just need to know what else to upgrade...

6.7L MegaCab

I'm not saying you should or should not do the studs. I have played around a bit more than I should have from part to full throttle racing a friend of mine or passing slow drivers and still have not lifted the head, evidence by the oil analysis. Depending on what you plan on doing with your truck should drive your decisions. The trans tune in my opinion is a must. If you plan on frequenting the drag strip you may want some ARP 625 or 425 bolts. If you tow heavy all the time (or at all I guess) I would consider the bolts as well. If you mainly commute then there really isn't a reason. One thing to keep in mind is to not hot rod it or pull heavy until the engine is fully warmed up. If you want to run the MM the way you want to be able to play around, i would consider the upgrading studs. Upgrading the torque converter to a suncoast or something may be worth the investment once again depending on what you plan on doing.

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Kaster21

Well I appreciate that if you have any other suggestions or upgrade ideas for me please feel free to run them by me. I'm also interested in being educated in this performance stuff

6.7L MegaCab

Not certain for performance wise other than deleting the egr/cooler (EGTs will be cooler). I upgraded my shocks with Bilstein 5100s at 33k because the right front started leaking around 25k. I couldn't be happier and no more bounce like the factory shocks. I also have air bags.

Start digging through the performance threads to see what others have done for turbo upgrades or other performance improvement mods. Others may start throwing other ideas and suggestions your way before too long. Look at Blake Clarke's (sorry Blake if the "e" is not suppose to be there) posts or even New2Diesel's threads among many others that I can't think of right now.

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Busboy

If you plan on doing this I would upgrade to either the 425 or probably the 625 studs too and although I don't really agree with changing them one at a time without replacing the head gasket that is what I would probably do too if the gasket is still ok. As 6.7 and myself have said the trick is to ensure the engine is fully warmed up before getting into it. You don't mention EGT which is a must at least one, I installed my kids 2011 in the exhaust manifold which was very difficult to not break the tap, when I did mine I installed it in the rear blocking plate for the EGR cooler delete, I drilled and tapped it on the bench before installing the plate, the draw back is it only reads #6 cyl temp and if you plan on using the highest setting I would install the probe in the exhaust manifold PRE turbo.

Kaster21

I have a pryo already installed

Kaster21

It's pre turbo as well. I'm uploading the overdrive program at this moment I just purchased it and I'm gonna see how it drives with the overdrive unlock