I'm not sure what you mean by staged filtering ... but I would like to find out.

Why would you need to replace the oem filter? Do they deteriorate with age and the passage of fuel? Following a 10u filter/water-separator and a 2u filter, it should be nothing more than a sieve that catches nothing (or very little). Probably should be taken out of the loop tho.

You know, I never expected this thread to take wing the way it has. I have learned and lot and really appreciate the way everyone has jumped in. Thanks,

Peyton

 

Everything deteriorates over time.

By staged filtering I mean 20 into 5 into 2, vs 20 into 2 into 5.

You also put both f/w seps first, where they should be.

 

This is exactly what I was saying. Factory to 2u. Not vice versa.

Spooler sent me that info on filtering. Gonna read it today at work if I get a chance. Anxious to see what it has to say.

 

I took the above statement to say that an "upgraded" SPIN-ON filter was used.

I take this statement to say that a canister-style filter was used.



Which is it? I'm getting the impression that the factory canister-style filter was replaced ("upgraded") with a non-Chrysler spin-on filter by a dealer. Then, this spin-on filter collapsed.

Is this correct? Please clear up my confusion.

 

Lemme back this up a bit: when this all started (and I first posted), I had been told by my son that the dealer had *upgraded* to a spin on type filter. But later, what I saw at the dealer was a canister style filter ... with a slightly hourglass shaped element. He's now gone back thru his paperwork and hasn't found any mention of a filter upgrade so it is probably the stock oem filter setup ... it has a bleeder and electrical connection (water-in-fuel light?) at the bottom.

Sorry for the confusion,

Peyton

 

The early 6.7's had a spin casing with a cartridge filter, and that was replaced with an upgraded filter like the 3rd gen 5.9.. I can see how it could get confused in dealer speak.

 

Actually the early 6.7s had a spin on that you had to replace the housing and cartridge each time. The upgraded filter was one which reused the housing and utilized a drop in cartridge, but was still spin on.







The 4th gens saw a redesign to the top loading cartridge filter similar to the 5.9 set up.

 

That's what I was trying to get across, but didn't quite get it correct.

Thanks for the more detailed info.

 

Even I get something right every once in a while!

 

When I had my 5.9 changing the fuel filter was very easy. This 6.7 is a PITA but I still love the truck

 

Whomever designed the FF setup on the 3rd gen 6.7 Id love to take him to a nice steak dinner and then when he is least expecting it kick him as hard as possible in the....

Well anyway.

The 4th gen setup is a breezed. Less than 5 mins I can have my filter out and a new on in.

 

Since you guys have read, here is my take on multistage filtering.

If you install an Airdog filter setup or the like that is actually your Primary filtration system. You will want to filter in this order. Bulk (Mud) filter. Water seperation filter, and then your polishing filter (2um). After the primary filter system you will go to the factory on motor filter (Last chance filter). This is your safety net. You should have polished fuel before you get to this filter. The size of your filters is determined in how much fuel you use each year. Oversizing is O.K. You want to be able to make it through at least one tank of bad fuel with no issues. That means nothing getting to your last chance filter.

Unfortunetly, using an Airdog filter setup like I do leaves alot to be desired because it goes straight from a Mud filter to a 2um polishing filter. Does it work OK, yes. Is it perfect, No. I wish I had a 10 micron media water seperator filter between my bulk filter and 2um filter. So it would be a 30um to 10um to 2um. Then from here to my Last chance filter with extremely polished fuel. The last chance filter also serves as a way to inspect how my primary filtering system is doing when replacing. Clean, no water, all is well. Do I see a need to run a 30um to a 20um to a 10um to a 5um to a 2um, No. Kind of a waste for our vehicles. All this is just my opinion on what I have learned. Can you go more extreme, sure. Is either way wrong, No.

 

Spooler I touched on that document you sent me. Got about two pages into it then we got real busy at work. Welders wanting to weld, go figure.

Im gonna post it up in this thread too, soon as I can figure out why my DTR mail is on the fritz this morning.

 

Upon reading the article on marine fuel filtering and several threads here about fuel filtering I've concluded that you could put together a DIY 3-stage filter setup to feed your last-chance filter for around $150 using 3 Wix 24770 bases and the filters in the article. The bases have 1/2" npt ports and accept 1-14 threaded filters as do the Fleetguard FS1000 or FS19596. Anybody know if the ff5013 is 1-14 and what it's micron rating is? The lift pump is in the fuel tank, right? If so the flow would be:

lift pump-->ff5013-->fs1000/fs19596-->2u filter ------>last chance filter

I also think it might be a good idea to use the fs19569, rather than the fs1000, and connect the wif sensor inline with the last-chance filter's wif sensor. You might also monitor filter loading with a vacuum gauge in the circuit ... maybe between the 2u filter and the last-chance filter.

Peyton

 

I know that Fleetguard is Cummins and one would assume that their filters are the best for their engines. But is that necessarily true? How do Wix filters, for example, compare to Fleetguard with regard to filtration and quality? or Baldwin? Wix are considerably less expensive but maybe for a reason. What are your thoughts on that? Thanks,

Peyton