Boz007

Out of nowhere my windows just stopped going down. The lights on the armrest are out as well. I thought maybe a fuse but i dont know what fuse controls those switches. Any ideas?

CalDodge

Maybe the plug in the door came apart? My electric mirror did that on the passanger side.

Patriot2500

My driver's side window doesn't go all the way down, maybe 3/4 of the way before it stops. Check the master switch in the door and all your fuses. Hope you get it worked out Boz.

Boz007

Anybody know what fuse controls the switches?

MossyOakGlock

Just start pulling fuses and see which one is blown

vzdude

Power comes from TIPM. No fuses it looks like!

DaveB.inVa

According to the service manual there is a circuit breaker located near the parking brake pedal and it mentions the circuit being fused.

However the wiring diagram doesn't show a fuse or breaker in the diagram but seems to reference back to fuse 39 or 40. It looks like if these were blown that more than the windows would be dead.

I've looked at this for a good 30 minutes trying to find the fuse they're talking about but I'm giving up. I've never had one this hard to find before. My girlfriend is here so I'm going to spend some time with her.... shes giving me dirty looks!

Boz007

Haha. Well thanks for trying.

vzdude

I know the following excerpt talks about a circuit breaker, but there is nothing shown in the diagram. IIRC the circuit breaker is integral to the TIPM.
Here's a wiring diagram as well.




POWER WINDOWS
WIRING VOLTAGE TEST
The following wiring test determines whether or not voltage is continuous through the body harness to the front switch.

Refer to the appropriate wiring information.

Remove the window/lock switch(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/POWER LOCKS/DOOR MODULE - REMOVAL).
Disconnect wire connector from back of switch.
Switch ignition to the ON position.
Connect the clip end of a 12 volt test light to Pin 14 of the window switch harness connector. Touch the test light probe to Pin 10.
If the test light illuminates, the wiring circuit between the battery and switch is OK.
If the lamp does not illuminate, first check the fuse in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM). Check the circuit breaker located near the park brake pedal. If fuse and circuit breaker are OK, then check for a broken wire.
POWER WINDOW MOTOR TEST
If the power window motor is receiving proper current and ground and does not operate, proceed with motor test.

Remove front door trim panel as necessary to gain access to power window motor wire connector (Refer to 23 - BODY/DOOR - FRONT/TRIM PANEL - REMOVAL).
Disconnect power window motor wire connector from door harness.
Using two jumper wires, connect one to a battery (+) source and the other to a good ground (-).
Connect the Negative (-) jumper probe to one of the motor connector terminals.
Momentarily touch the Positive (+) jumper probe to the other motor connector terminal.
When positive probe is connected the motor should rotate in one direction to either move window up or down. If window is all the way up or down the motor will grunt and the inner door panel will flex when actuated in that one direction.

Reverse jumper probes at the motor connector terminals and window should now move in opposite direction. If window does not move or grunt, replace the motor.
If window moved completely up or down, reverse the jumper probes and cycle window to the opposite position to verify full operation.

If motor grunts and does not move, verify that regulator is not binding.

DaveB.inVa

Thats the single line I'm looking at too. The fuse it mentions I believe is 39 or 40. There are no direct references to this though. I think its 39 or 40 because the single lines from the windows back at the TIPM all reference "FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN/ACC). Referencing the TIPM fuse schedule and layout the only two fuses that control run and acc are 39 and 40. However if these were blown more stuff than the windows would be dead.

I'm going to hobble out to my truck tomorrow to see if I can find that circuit breaker down by the parking brake. I've been all over that area when I installed my gauges, painless wiring system and all kinda stuff and I've never saw anything resembling a breaker. But again I wasn't looking for a breaker and it is busy down there. If I can make it out there I'll bring the camera along and get pics of the breaker. No guarantees though on my making it out there, Im not so sure my busted leg will let me contort into the floorboard yet.