Lee S

My 1995 Dodge had lousy paint and I waxed it twice a year, sometimes three times a year. The left front fender started peeling after 5 years and, by the time I sold it after 10 years, it had small paint cancer spots on all panels and doors.

I've used various waxes and polishes. Maguires was the one I used the most but I also tried a 3-step Mother's process. None of them kept the paint from falling off.

To keep the truck looking good, I use Kit-Wax car wash, which has a little wax in it and does make darker colors look deeper. Followed with "Wax-As-U-Dry" or something like that. Truck shines real nice. Since I have to park in the driveway under an oak and magnolia tree with their sap, crap and occasional flock of birds, I still think a couple of good waxings a year is a good idea.

1sttruck

I try to wax the truck and two cars ta least once a year, to keep the water beading on the finish. The less my wife runs the vehicles thru the commercial car wash the better, as that's how they test car waxes for durability. I've been using Rain Dance, not because it's the best, rather I don't obsess over it and it seems to work. I'll be trying Nufinish this year.

momanor

I have used Rejexs on last 2 Dodge trucks, 98 Dakota and 2005 CTD, I also believe a combination of Mothers California Gold car wash, then Eagle 1 Wax as you Dry cant be beat. Back to Black on all plastic, but now I have a soft tonneau that I use 303 Protectant, very similar to B2B. Both trucks are white, and both came with pinpricks of rust showing through the paint, never had any trouble with this combo, rust never came back. Rejex I bought off internet to keep bugs from sticking to front of camper, some space age polomier[sp] bugs just come off with squirt from hose[ mostly] no scrubbing anyway. Long winded 1st post... bonne chance

HOHN

Funny this thread came up, as I'm just getting ready to do an all out clay/glaze/wax series on my car and truck, as neither of them have seen wax in ages! Truck has never been waxed, lol!

If you use the proper pads, technique and such, swirl marks are NOT an issue. There's no need for a "random orbit" polisher.

I just picked up one of these:


List price is $200. I got it for $63

The trick, imo, is to use the newer generation of FOAM pads to apply wax, buff, and polish. I no longer use ANYTHING with wool or cotton in it for buffing pads. Wool should only be used for *heavy* compounding, like a red fiberglass boat that's pink because of oxidation. Cotton should only be used for final wipedown BY HAND, and I think microfiber works better.

You're not going to find the proper pads and such at your local autoparts superchain like Autozone, O'Reilly's, Advance, or what have you. NAPA- maybe. You usually end up having to go to a body shop supply place that sells paint and refinishing supplies.

A "cleaner wax" like Meguiar's #3 is ABRASIVE. It's designed to REMOVE PAINT-- granted, it's very little, but it still removes paint.

DO NOT USE A "CLEANER WAX"!! If you need to "clean" your paint, then you should ONLY USE A CLAY BAR SYSTEM!! The paint on these things is thin enough that if you use a "cleaner wax", the abrasive component will eat through the clear, then the base, then be down to the primer.

Clay will NOT remove paint, as it's not nearly as abrasive. It will remove overspray and such from good paint, and leave a well-prepped surface for you to polish or wax.

When I worked in a body shop as the guy that did buffing, color sanding, and other final finishing (after it came out of the booth), all we used was 3m stuff.

3m stuff is pretty good, but $$.

I'd suggest the following:

1) clay bar after a good car wash. It removes overspray and tar very well.
2) 3m hand glaze after clay bar. It will remove swirl marks and contains NO WAX or silicone.

3) Finish with the wax of your choice. Use either a polymer-based concoction (like Nu Finish, Prestone Wax, etc. etc) or a real wax-based concoction (ZYMOL and Meguiar's #26 yellow wax.

The polymer "waxes" last longer, but the wax "waxes" shine better. Best to use a polymer first, then go over it with a wax-based setup.

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<BREAK>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Oh, and here's a note on "carnauba" wax. Real carnauba wax is hard in it's natural form-- harder than a candle. It's actually a lot like the paraffin you buy for canning jelly in hardness. It comes from taking the leaves of the carnauba palm and boiling them until the wax melts out.
It comes in two colors: yellow (cheaper) and white (better) and is graded numerically with 1 being best. Meguiar's #26 contains Yellow carnauba of a low grade.

So ask yourself how much of this hard wax can be contained in a liquid polish!

The truth is, even some of the "best" waxes on the market only contain about 15% Carnauba. Most off the shelf products only contain 3%-4% because real carnauba is expensive stuff!

Zymol makes an excellent wax, but there's a couple things worth noting. First, the cheap zymol waxes you see at auto parts places use a lot less carnauba and a lot more beeswax. Second, almost EVERYONE uses Zymol wrong. YOU CANNOT LET IT DRY-- you have to buff it out before it dries or you will have devil of a time trying to get it off. Imagine trying to buff out a candle and you get the idea.

Zymol makes a lot more expensive waxes that you generally won't see on a store shelf. I have used their "creme" grade wax, which normally runs about $60 a can (it was given to me). It's only about 20% carnauba, and it's fantastic! (the smell makes you think you are in an island paradise sipping a drink with an umbrella while some local hottie is rubbing you down)

If you want a wax that's 60% White Brazilian Carnauba, then there's only one wax to get. Zymol's Atlantique. http://www.zymol.com/alant2.htm

Bring the checkbook, because it's $823.

EDIT: Sorry, those of you who want the "best" (make sure you think like a snob when interpreting that word) wax actually will have to pay more:http://www.zymol.com/vintage2.htm

This one is over $1500

BEHRMAN

I use my local detail shop once a year. Buff and wax. No tennis elbow here.

Boss Hoss 540

I wax mine about every 3 weeks with Meguires #26. I drive at the ranch almost every weekend and over the years this has kept all of my trucks almost perfect!! Everything just Slides off!!!

BigRedFred

I also use Menzerna, Intensive and Intensive 2 followed by FMJ.

Good stuff.

www.whichwaxisbest.com is a good info source.

runamuk

West Marine teflon boat wax 3x per year. I use it on my truck, trailer, car and of course" Runamuk" (my boats name) herself. Slicker than greased snot and bullet proof too!!!

Rick

surfram

I use meguires "gold class" 1-2 times a year.

ftltmp

I LIKE THIS STUFF. WWW.LONG-HAUL.COM.:)

Robert P

i had the dealer put a paint sealant on my paint. she told me that its good for 7 years and that i did not have to wax but for some reason i dont belive that. but if i do go through the clear coat and paint with the purchase of this selant come the 7 year warranty, so i guess ill do what ever i want for 7 years.

Fronty Owner

im going to throw in another vote for Meguires

runamuk

Robert P, I had the same thing done to mine and guess what it is a teflon impregnated product that they use

Rick

BTW congrats on the new truck!

moterhead

Squirt a little WD-40 on a rag. Wipes the white wax residue right off black (or other color) plastic parts. Use it on the Harleys a lot. I have a tank trim panel on my '99 dresser that is basicly red epoxy. After a few years, it became a ***** to clean. Raindrops would water spot it so badly it looked tan rather than red. WD-40 cleans it right up.

LCH

Thanks moterhead, I detailed it today, since I hadn't gotten any ideas thought I'd try some Turtle Wax Tar and Bug remover. It worked pretty good with a toothbrush. I didn't think of WD, I'll try it on a couple of spots I missed. Funny how that wax shows up later on that black, Thanks again...LCH